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Need advice on buying custom enclosed trailer: ORDERED ONE


Gary_Ash

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23 minutes ago, Bhigdog said:

 

Not to hijack the thread but a "trailer aid" tire changing ramp is a MUST have. Makes the tire change a breeze. Only hassle is the semis whizzing by at 70 MPH. I HATE TRAILER TIRES..............Bob

I agree completely, and use one!  I also carry a battery-powered Milwaukee impact wrench for UNfastening (only) the wheel nuts, and an accessible star wrench and torque wrench for tightening the wheel nuts.  Another handy item is a tire iron with a flattened end (or a 30" screwdriver) to insert under the new wheel and tire at the 6 o'clock position to help lift the assembly onto the studs.  The older trailer has 15" wheels, and 16s won't fit, so I've had to change a lot of thrown-thread tires--but haven't had any failures from the Goodyear Endurance ST tires--YET....

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The '48 pickup is 15 ft long, the Indy car is only 14 ft long.  I figure a 20 ft trailer gives me enough space inside to tie down either vehicle in a spot for good tongue weight adjustment.  The truck is a little nose heavy, the Indy car will be close to 50-50.  As it happens, I have a digital crane scale good for 660 lbs, so I should be able to use my engine hoist and the scale to actually measure tongue load and mark the inside of the trailer for where the cars need to be to get about 10-12% of the total weight on the hitch.  I'll just need to lift the tongue slightly off the hitch ball.  Life is full of compromises, and in this case I'm unlikely to step up to a diesel 2500 truck because we frequently use the 8 seats in the Expedition, so I'm trying to minimize weight (hence length) and cost, while choosing something that will last 10+ years of infrequent hauling.  

 

Good advice about spare wheels/tires.  Sounds like I'll need (at least) two.

 

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On 8/16/2018 at 10:37 AM, Bhigdog said:

 

Now you've given me a wake up call, Charlie. I've had my trailer inspected only once in the 12 years I've been towing with it. Guess I'll spring for the $30 inspection fee.

The guy at the inspection station said other states can't enforce not having a PA sticker since it's not their state's law violation. Might be B.S., Don't know........Bob

Correct but a state like Maryland can and does enforce own laws and is costly I have learned. Yes, the tow vehicle is usually first checked!

Robert

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Someone correct me if I am wrong but I have always read that tow capacity of the vehicle was based on the GVWR with the driver and a tank fo fuel so adding 7 more passengers will lower the capacity of your Expedition even more IF they are going to be in the tow vehcile when you are towing

 

Bob

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1 hour ago, Gary_Ash said:

The '48 pickup is 15 ft long, the Indy car is only 14 ft long.  I figure a 20 ft trailer gives me enough space inside to tie down either vehicle in a spot for good tongue weight adjustment.  The truck is a little nose heavy, the Indy car will be close to 50-50.  As it happens, I have a digital crane scale good for 660 lbs, so I should be able to use my engine hoist and the scale to actually measure tongue load and mark the inside of the trailer for where the cars need to be to get about 10-12% of the total weight on the hitch.  I'll just need to lift the tongue slightly off the hitch ball.  Life is full of compromises, and in this case I'm unlikely to step up to a diesel 2500 truck because we frequently use the 8 seats in the Expedition, so I'm trying to minimize weight (hence length) and cost, while choosing something that will last 10+ years of infrequent hauling.  

 

Good advice about spare wheels/tires.  Sounds like I'll need (at least) two.

 

 

Gary, 

I think the height will affect the weight more than the length. With that extra 2' catching the wind while you are driving down the road at 65 MPH, it will be a lot of drag. 22' long at 6' high might weigh less than 20' long and 8'6" high. Just a suggestion see if you can get your truck into a lower height trailer and maybe then go for an extra few feet of floor space with a lower height. The only reason I have an 8' high trailer because I was told one my early cars I owned at the time would not fit in 6' trailer and I did not check it. Most of the advice I had gotten was spot on from experienced guys trailering except for that.   

Just to get to the front tie downs is going to be a task with a 20 footer.  With items like spare tires, electric impact wrench, and such you need some working room in the front of the trailer where everything must be rapidly accessible , you don't want to be unloading things on the side of the interstate just to get to the spare.

 

There was a FANTASTIC seminar this year at the AACA Meeting in Philly about trailering.  The opening comment by the presenter was, 'towing a car trailer is one of the most dangerous things we do in this hobby, for multitude of reasons, and we should always remain aware of that.'  

 

 I understand your situation about the tow vehicle, and was not trying to spend your money for you. When I was doing what you are doing now, gathering information. I was told that the tow vehicle dictates everything and it does not matter if it is 10 miles or a 1,000 miles  or once a month or once a year, you don't want to be on the edge of limits.  While they are rated for certain weights to tow, the 1500 Series SUV's  seem more for taking a boat or a small camping trailer.  Having used a Yukon to tow an open trailer with a 62 Chevy from NY to Colorado and back. While it did it fine the shorter wheelbase convinced me that it was not really was not meant for that.  We see these vehicles all over the place, but very seldom with a trailer behind it.   

 

One more thing going back to spare tires a few extra lug nuts can't hurt either! I will leave it for your imagination how I know about that one 

  

Edited by John348 (see edit history)
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5 minutes ago, John348 said:

 

One more thing going back to spare tires a few extra lug nuts can't hurt either! I will leave it for your imagination how I know about that one

YUP!!!  And a couple of dust caps and locks for the hub nuts, too....

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On 8/16/2018 at 10:37 AM, Bhigdog said:

 

Now you've given me a wake up call, Charlie. I've had my trailer inspected only once in the 12 years I've been towing with it. Guess I'll spring for the $30 inspection fee.

The guy at the inspection station said other states can't enforce not having a PA sticker since it's not their state's law violation. Might be B.S., Don't know........Bob

 

Bob,

 

You should seriously consider getting your trailer inspected and keeping it inspected for two reasons. The first lesson my brother learned the hard way. Last summer my brother was cited for an expired inspection sticker here in PA for his PA licensed car. Till all was said and done it cost him what TWO flea market spaces at Hershey costs (you do that math). Second, not getting yearly safety inspections done for a number of years and then having an accident could dig yourself a legal and financial hole so deep that you would never, ever get out. 

 

Also you have to tell me where you can get a car trailer inspected in PA for just $30 (and not just be buying the sticker).  Trailer inspection have some different rules/guidelines than inspection stations that do cars. Those different requirements means more $$$$ for the inspection. That is also why very, very few auto inspection stations also do trailers. When I first got my trailer I took it to an RV dealer for inspection which cost $75. A few years later a local AACA Member (Thanks Peter H.) told me about the garage he used for trailer inspection. That fella charged me $35 for the first few years. Since then he had to raise the cost to $50. I can only imagine what the RV dealer charges now.

 

Charlie

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5 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

 

I carry 3 mounted and one unmounted spare. Having just one spare sucks. When you have a blow out 300 miles from home and put your spare on. Now you are 300 miles from home with NO SPARE. Been there, done that , no fun.......Bob

 

I usually carry two mounted spares and two unmounted spares . If I had a $1 for every AACA member I've talked to over the years who had one tire blow out, changed it and had the other tire blow out on the same side I could buy a few forum members lunch at Hershey. The most logical explanation is that when the first tire blows that puts added stress on the second tire which can lead to the second blow out.

 

Another suggestion for Gary... DO NOT mount your spare tires in the front of the trailer. Depending on the wheel and tire that could easily add 50-70 pounds of UNNECESSARY tongue weight per tire. That extra weight could push you over your vehicle's max tongue weight rating. The same goes for tool boxes and other heavy items as well.

 

Charlie

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4 hours ago, Robert Street said:

Correct but a state like Maryland can and does enforce own laws and is costly I have learned. Yes, the tow vehicle is usually first checked!

Robert

 

Robert, Maryland also like to check V.I.N.s on trailers also. If the trooper cannot read the VIN on your trailer (because it was printed on the sticker and has faded) you will MOST DEFINITELY get a ticket. This applies to ALL TRAILERS regardless of the state they are registered in. A friend of mine learned this the hard way with his PA licensed trailer and the ticket wasn't cheap. The VIN on my trailer faded and the dealer where I bought my trailer sent me an engraved plate with the VIN on it.

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I,m trying to get a replacement vin sticker for my haulmark unreadable one. Haulmark and wells cargo are the same company. For three days now they either dont answer the phone or dont return calls. No answer to emails. Im not happy..........bob

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16 hours ago, Bob Hill said:

Someone correct me if I am wrong but I have always read that tow capacity of the vehicle was based on the GVWR with the driver and a tank fo fuel so adding 7 more passengers will lower the capacity of your Expedition even more IF they are going to be in the tow vehcile when you are towing

 

Bob

 

Yes, Bob somewhat correct generally the GCVW will indicate the manufacturer's combined trailer weight and weight of passengers or equipment in the vehicle.  I recently got rid of my F350 Powerstroke to get into the new higher horsepower 2017 GMC Duramax(the ones with the hood scoop) and the numbers on it are 25,300 GCVW.  Conventional tow rating is 17,200 per the  truck VIN(SRW) so that would leave 8,100 for GVW for the truck and passengers.  I haven't scaled my truck axles but am quite certain when on the interstate I am less then 8,100 combined.  I am towing an aluminum 24 ATC rated 10,000 and have scaled it with my 61 Impala, spare tires and equipment and it is 9,200 combined so I am good to go. Interesting the axles on the trailer are somewhat even when level 4,700 front 4,500 rear with close to 1,000# tongue weight on the jackstand.

The next axle capacity combination under 10,000 is about 7,200 +/- and is probably where a 20 foot trailer needs to be to haul Gary's truck.

I agree with John 20 feet might be too much inconvience with that truck.

One item on the escape door. 99% of the time the escape door is centered by the builder over the axles and isn't correct for most applications. ATC did blueprint drawings of my 61 in the trailer noting location of the car door and escape door which I'll admit looks funny as it is quite a few inches forward of center but I can literally open the car door to max and step out.  I have hauled other makes and surprising all work the same.

One last item for consideration as I do tow to some long distance national meets.  I have a TPMS system on the trailer tires with temperature and pressures reporting  to the screen in the truck.  It is interesting to watch tire pressures and temperatures rise on a hot interstate at 75 MPH.

My 2 cents for Gary is it sounds like he isn't towing far to national shows such as Auburn or Ocala/Mobile so if not in allot of mountains towing with a gas 2500 or 3500 should be adequate although I hated my gas trucks as they were all gutless in hills and had elevated transmission and oil and water temperatures.  I am not a fan of using an Expedition for towing 7,500 plus pounds unless around town. They are fine for towing 25 foot Grady Whites around though.

Robert

 

Edited by Robert Street
victim of spell check? (see edit history)
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I carry 3 mounted and one unmounted spare. Having just one spare sucks. When you have a blow out 300 miles from home and put your spare on. Now you are 300 miles from home with NO SPARE. Been there, done that , no fun.......Bob

 

 

that's why there is triple A!

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16 minutes ago, mercer09 said:

I carry 3 mounted and one unmounted spare. Having just one spare sucks. When you have a blow out 300 miles from home and put your spare on. Now you are 300 miles from home with NO SPARE. Been there, done that , no fun.......Bob

 

 

that's why there is triple A!

 

I also have also used triple A when in a jamb like when blew a rear truck tire with loaded trailer down on I-85 in NC headed to Charlotte.   Don’t need them with trailer tires since they are easier to change with ramps and battery impact wrenches

Robert

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1 hour ago, Robert Street said:

 

Yes, Bob somewhat correct generally the GCVW will indicate the manufacturer's combined trailer weight and weight of passengers or equipment in the vehicle.  I recently got rid of my F350 Powerstroke to get into the new higher horsepower 2017 GMC Duramax(the ones with the hood scoop) and the numbers on it are 25,300 GCVW.  Conventional tow rating is 17,200 per the  truck VIN(SRW) so that would leave 8,100 for GVW for the truck and passengers.  I haven't scaled my truck axles but am quite certain when on the interstate I am less then 8,100 combined.  I am towing an aluminum 24 ATC rated 10,000 and have scaled it with my 61 Impala, spare tires and equipment and it is 9,200 combined so I am good to go. Interesting the axles on the trailer are somewhat even when level 4,700 front 4,500 rear with close to 1,000# tongue weight on the jackstand.

The next axle capacity combination under 10,000 is about 7,200 +/- and is probably where a 20 foot trailer needs to be to haul Gary's truck.

I agree with John 20 feet might be too much inconvience with that truck.

 

Robert, Nice information in your post. From what I understand Bob is correct. The weight of passengers and luggage/cargo  counts against the rated payload capacity of the tow vehicle as does the tongue weight of the loaded trailer and the weight of the hitch & tow ball. This is why it is important for Gary to know the actual, rated payload capacity of his Expedition. I did a quick google search and found on (non-Ford website) that lists the payload capacity for Gary's Expedition as 1,580 lbs.

So if one does the math it might look like:  1,580 (total payload capacity - 720 (tongue weight of 6,000 lb loaded trailer at 12%) - 60 lbs ( guesstimate of weight for a weight distributing hitch) = 800 lbs of available Payload for passengers, their luggage and any other cargo. Now if the actual tongue weight and actual weight of the hitch are higher or lower then the 800 lbs in this example will be higher or lower also.

 

Also everyone here should be advised that the rated Payload capacity of a tow vehicle is used to compute the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating for the vehicle. If one exceeds the rated payload capacity then one will exceed their vehicle's GVWR which could be a legal issue in the event of an accident. Exceeding the GVWR on the tow vehicle also DECREASES the weight of a trailer that the tow vehicle can tow. This is due to the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating which is the maximum weight that both the loaded tow vehicle and loaded trailer can weigh and still not exceed the GCVWR. Exceeding the GCVWR in the event of an accident can be a legal issue. Bottom line is a person who tows and wants to do so safely and avoid legal issues should insure that all their weights are UNDER the published  ratings for their tow vehicle.

 

 

1 hour ago, Robert Street said:

One item on the escape door. 99% of the time the escape door is centered by the builder over the axles and isn't correct for most applications. ATC did blueprint drawings of my 61 in the trailer noting location of the car door and escape door which I'll admit looks funny as it is quite a few inches forward of center but I can literally open the car door to max and step out.  I have hauled other makes and surprising all work the same.

One last item for consideration as I do tow to some long distance national meets.  I have a TPMS system on the trailer tires with temperature and pressures reporting  to the screen in the truck.  It is interesting to watch tire pressures and temperatures rise on a hot interstate at 75 MPH.

My 2 cents for Gary is it sounds like he isn't towing far to national shows such as Auburn or Ocala/Mobile so if not in allot of mountains towing with a gas 2500 or 3500 should be adequate although I hated my gas trucks as they were all gutless in hills and had elevated transmission and oil and water temperatures.  I am not a fan of using an Expedition for towing 7,500 plus pounds unless around town. They are fine for towing 25 foot Grady Whites around though.

 

TPMS systems are a good idea for a trailer. Keeping trailer tires inflated to the proper pressure is also key as is visually inspecting the tires before each trip. Also very important is NOT exceeding the tire's published speed rating. One sure fire way to cause a trailer tire blowout due to heat is to have under inflated tires or drive 75+ mph on tires rated for only 55-60 mph.

 

When I was shopping for my trailer I was fortunate that the manufacturer I chose worked with me. I chose the location of my escape door which was not typical since I planned to tow three vehicles each with different sized doors.  This manufacture also raised the floor of my trailer a few inches so that the interior wheel wells of the trailer were not so tall so the doors on my vehicles could clear the wheel well when I opened them. Both of these designed changes were at no additional cost.

 

This brings up another point for Gary. Make sure that you have sufficient clearance above the trailer's interior wheel wells to clear the bottom of the doors of all vehicles you ever intend to tow. With some trailers this may not be a concern since the escape side wheel well is a light weight removable wheel well. If the wheel wells are not removable then check those clearances.

 

Charlie

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3 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

I,m trying to get a replacement vin sticker for my haulmark unreadable one. Haulmark and wells cargo are the same company. For three days now they either dont answer the phone or dont return calls. No answer to emails. Im not happy..........bob

 

Wanna bet that if you were shopping for a new trailer they would have returned your calls/email?

 

Any chance your Haulmark dealer can help or are they the ones not getting back to you?

 

Charlie

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1 hour ago, charlier said:

 

Wanna bet that if you were shopping for a new trailer they would have returned your calls/email?

 

Any chance your Haulmark dealer can help or are they the ones not getting back to you?

 

Charlie

 

Why would they call you back?

They already have your money.

I had issues a couple of times when I was dealing in boat trailers.

I have a buddy that runs a sign shop. If there is anything left of the old sticker that can be photographed a new sticker can new replicated.

Edited by JACK M (see edit history)
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3 hours ago, mike6024 said:

1/4 in. Letter and Number Metal Stamp Set (36-Piece)

How about making your own VIN plate with some stamps? maybe a piece of scrap stainless, an attach to the frame with pop rivets, or stamp the frame directly.

 

Easy enough and may come to that............Bob

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4 hours ago, JACK M said:

Any chance your Haulmark dealer can help or are they the ones not getting back to you?

 

Main Haulmark offices in Indiana Have a customer service #. I left a message Thursday and sent an EMail asking for information how to get a replacement. No call back. Called all day Friday. Long silence then busy signal. Called the plant in McAdoo (20 minutes away) busy signal all day Thursday/Friday. Called a couple of dealers who were guessing at what to do. May drive to McAdoo next week. Likely get thrown out.

VIN and GVW placard is/was nothing more than a mylar sticker on the side of the tongue in the weather and road dirt. WTF?................Bob

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Finally got in contact with Haulmark. If I send them a copy of my title they will be happy to send me a duplicate sticker to stick on my trailer tongue where it also will become unreadable. They also will be happy to charge me $50.

I just checked and my trailer registration lists the unladen and gross  weights. That should satisfy any highway check. A nicely crafted aluminum tag displaying the VIN riveted to the tongue should satisfy anyone else.

Ka-Ching Ka-Ching!..... $50 staying right where it belongs.............Bob

Edited by Bhigdog (see edit history)
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On my Aztex triple axle trailer which I call "Fugly" because it is,  the VIN sticker is on the inside C portion of the tongue, cleverly positioned by the factory so that to read it, one must lie on his/her back in the dirt.  So I did just that and took a photo, which I've printed out and carry with the registration in a manila envelope inside the trailer.  As amusing as it would be to watch a trooper try to read it, I've learned in my old age that discretion is often the better part of valor. Don't fail the Attitude Test or commit felony Contempt of Cop!

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Except you'll get the cop that thinks "Now why is this guy showing me a pic of a VIN. He must not want me to really check it". Onto his back he goes to check the tag. When he sees it is indeed correct he thinks. "Why that sneaky SOB showed me a pic because he knew I would be suspicious and have to lay in the dirt. I would have believed him if he hadn't tried that pic trick." Next words you hear the now pissed cop say is something along the lines of: "Sir, is there any thing in your vehicle I should know about?"..... "Would you mind if I look?"....."Sir, please back your car out of the trailer".... "Sir, I'm waiting for the canine unit, he'll be here as soon as he is free from another vehicle check."

Two hours later the dogs and two other back up cars are gone. The officer with the muddy back stands by as you load your car. As he hands back your pic he says: "Drive safely, sir, and have a nice day". He never did smile once the entire time....................Bob

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Bob, I appreciate the insight into New York cops!  Since I trained cops in aviation security for 25 years, I have perceived a difference in outlook in PA and NY officers. :-)  I'll make sure I have an articulated inspection mirror accessible in case the officer doesn't have one......

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  • Gary_Ash changed the title to Need advice on buying custom enclosed trailer: ORDERED ONE

I ordered an ALCOM/EZ Hauler 20 ft aluminum trailer from my local dealer.  Based on advice received here, I added a couple of upgrades:  changed the 1/4" luan walls to 3/8" water resistant, added a 36" Vee-nose, two spare wheels, and a fold-out flap on the edge of the ramp.  The rest is as spec'ed below.  With the thicker walls and flap, the weight will be a little higher than the listed 2580 lbs, but not much.  With the Indy car at 2500 lbs and the Studebaker M5 truck at about 2700 lbs, the total loaded weight will still be well under 6000 lbs, OK for my Expedition EL (6000 lbs plus) and about the same as with the steel flatbed trailer I own.  While the Expedition can haul 8 people, there are only the two of us when we go to car shows away.  We'll see how much more wind resistance there is - the old pickup sits up high on the flat bed and has all the aerodynamics of a brick.  The price came out at $9K, plus tax.  I was told they will build it at ALCOM in Winslow, Maine (near Augusta), should be ready in 3-4 weeks.  I'll post pics when it gets here.  Thanks for the help!

EZHauler trailer specs.png

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Congrats on your purchase!!

 

Just wondering, if you had a chance to crunch ALL your numbers for Rated Payload Capacity, Rated Tongue Capacity, Rated GVWR and GCVWR for your tow vehicle?

 

Also wondering did you purchase a street-side escape door? That will not matter if you plan to winch all your vehicles into/out of the trailer. If you are not winching and plan to drive it in and out I am sure you checked the clearances between the trailer wall and the open doors on each of your vehicles.

 

My trailer is 8.5' wide and I have an escape door. If I have the escape door closed on my trailer and open the door on any of my trailered cars I barely have enough room to put my fire extinguisher in the open door. No way I could climb into any of my cars since I am not as thin as I used to be. 

 

One other bit of advise. If you do not have an escape door you might want to go to a Five Below store and buy a bunch of Styrofoam pool noodles. This time of year they are HALF Price. I mounted some of these on the curb side wall of my trailer and on my escape door. This prevents the door of any of my vehicles from tapping the bare wall. Other trailer owners I know slit these noodles down the side then put them on their ramp door cables when their door is open. This makes the cables VERY visible and cushions them should a car being loaded/unloaded brush up against them.

 

Once again Congrats.

 

Charlie

 

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Both the truck and the Indy car are just over 6 ft wide, so lots of room on the sides.  Also, the Indy car has no doors, just climb over the side.  But, yes, there is a side exit door, 32" wide.  I like the noodles idea, though my grandchildren are going to miss them in the pool...

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I started designing custom enclosed car hauler trailers this year - turnkey - featuring the design elements I have found to be essential.

 

 

376855A4-5B74-4B52-93C5-41515CF64024.jpeg

 

I just designed a custom 20 foot trailer featuring:

 

Full perimeter steel tube frame - no outriggers 

7 ft. 3 inch rear door height

88 inch rear door width

Ramp door w/ heavy duty springs & extra hinges

5200 pound tandem torsion axles

12” on center ceiling - wall - floor screwed every support inside & out

One piece aluminum roof

Full welds

.040 aluminum exterior

3/4” plywood floor

3/8” cabinet grade plywood wall

Thermacool ceiling

5 foot extended tongue

6 ft. tall x 4 ft. wide curb side door

Two pair universal aluminum side vents

Light switches at rear ramp door & curb door for 3 led interior lights

 

Pick up price at dealer - $7500

 

My latest custom car hauler trailer that has the above features & more including 

nose cone & additional oversized door.

 

It has a 30 ft. box & 8 ft. rear door

7000 pound tandem torsion axles

 

B3ACAFA8-D949-420E-AD89-8D2EEC300FDF.jpeg

CD78094E-0F4E-4033-9E85-80F44D0E62CA.jpeg

 

 

Jim

Edited by Trulyvintage (see edit history)
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Gary,

 

Thought I would post a few photos of some of the mods I did to my trailer that I mentioned in this thread.

 

Pics 1 & 2 are the pool noodles used to cushion the areas where vehicle doors may come into contact with the walls.

 

Pic 3 is one of my spare tires mounted in the rear along with the Trailer Aid ramp I use when I have a flat tire on the trailer.

 

Pic 4 shows both spare tires and both of the tool/supply boxes I fill with trailer & car related items for each trip

This pic also shows the E-Track installed in my trailer. E-Track with wheel baskets are IMHO the BEST way to secure a car, hands down.

Unfortunately, if one tows cars with different  wheel widths E-Track can be a challenge and do not work for everyone.

 

Pic 5 shows the (4) 20 foot LED light strings I added. They were dirt cheap ($22 for all 4) and beat any light a trailer maker currently installs when it comes to brightness and cost. In fact I have thought about renting out my trailer as a tanning booth and best of all they do not draw that much power/amps.

 

Charlie

 

 

Trailer Pics 001.jpg

Trailer Pics 002.jpg

Trailer Pics 003.jpg

Trailer Pics 005.jpg

Trailer Pics 006.jpg

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