Hubert_25-25 Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 I have a horn button that does not work. The entire mechanism looks rivetted together. Has anyone tried soaking their horn button in anything to try to get it to operate? I would consider another one as plan B, but want to try something first. Year is 1915 6 cylinder thru 1921, 1922-24 4 cylinder, 1925 standard. Thank you, Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 My horn button didn't work either. I soaked it in vinegar and worked the switch 100 times until the contacts inside became untarnished. The contact points are copper and vinegar destroys copper patina, much better than rust remover. Don't bother with evaporust, it does nothing to copper. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsan Posted August 3, 2018 Share Posted August 3, 2018 Hugh Yes it is riveted together. Ours was , you guessed it, broken. Not only was the button cracked in half but the bakelite holder of all the contact parts was broken too . If you have a source for a replacement , I'm all ears as I never found one. I ended up having my retired machinist fiddle with making a new button and a new contact holder out of Delrin. Replaced the rivets with screws so, you know , I could service it . The parts inside are simple Brad 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 Brad, I am following Morgan's advise and giving my horn button the spa treatment in a vinegar bath. I have had good luck using vinegar for rust removal. I got lucky polishing it too because somehow I shot it across the work bench when the buffing wheel grabbed it, and it didn't break. I should know something in a day or 2. Hugh 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 4, 2018 Author Share Posted August 4, 2018 I learned a bit about my horn button today. So much tarnish on the copper that I was really unaware of how this operated. I thought that the "switch" was actually in the horn bakelight assembly, but it is not. That is just a spring assembly and the contact is the copper surface under the bakelight button that touches the aluminum housing when pressed. All good now. It spent 1 day in the vinegar spa which removed the tarnish. Hugh 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Also you have to make sure the spark and throttle lever castings are clean and the spacer washer is also electrically clean. Every little bit helps downstream for good contact. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 5, 2018 Author Share Posted August 5, 2018 Larry, Not sure if I am missing a part. You mention a spacer washer. Is it part 255338? This part is called a stationary friction washer. I did not have this in my parts when I disassembled my spark and throttle levers. Do you have any details on this part? Thank you, Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Hugh. Here are the place for this washer.What is more importent is to have those frictions shoe and spring on place just to get the levels to stay in place there you have moved it to. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 (edited) I have a pair of the levers available if anybody needs them... Edited August 5, 2018 by Mark Shaw (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Mark. They looks to fit on Std models,Master looks a little bit different.I sold my 1925-25 resto.objekt a couple of week ago to Osterrich I know he needs the left ones in the photo. Maybe you could contakt him Nigel McComb at nigel.mccomb@avl.com Almost everyting (missing some small parts) is packed on the car just to made it easier to transport. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted August 5, 2018 Share Posted August 5, 2018 Leif, I sent him an email with the photo... Thanks, Mark 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 Leif, I do have the shoes and springs. I am just missing the friction washer. Hugh Mark, If Nigel is not interested, I would like them as a spare. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 (edited) Hugh Here are a drawing of the "wascher".That will be an easy part to made for you! Leif in Sweden. Edited August 6, 2018 by Leif Holmberg (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 (edited) Leif, Thank you. Larry said that these were nickeled, and that I could make this out of brass. Hugh Edited August 6, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 Hugh. Maybe there are some nickel on the outer edgeo on it,but it`s hard to see,but there are no brass,just iron-steel in it.If I was you I should have made it in stainless steel insted?If it`s possible to find such a thin material of stainless steel? Leif in Sweden. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leif Holmberg Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 21 hours ago, Mark Shaw said: Leif, I sent him an email with the photo... Thanks, Mark Mark. I contacted a Swedish "cooperator"to Nigel in Osterrich and he should contact Nigel. Leif in Sweden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 6, 2018 Author Share Posted August 6, 2018 Mark, Do you have one of these "washers" in your box of parts? Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 Leif: Thank you for making the sketch for Hugh. I spoke with him last night. I was doing a drawing for him also since my steering column has been apart. Yes the original was steel with some plating on it. On mine it was rusty and pitted with just a trace of plating left. Below is the order of assembly. The friction washer in place over the throttle lever. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted August 6, 2018 Share Posted August 6, 2018 (edited) Repaired I.D. 2.375 dimension. Edited August 7, 2018 by dibarlaw Added content (see edit history) 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted August 7, 2018 Share Posted August 7, 2018 Sort of related. I got this part in a box of other Buick parts. Can anyone identify? Too new for me. For Sale once I figure out what I have. I would say it would buff up like new if you were careful. I'm not looking to get rich, more interested in helping this part find a home and help someone out. Don't be the guy who buys this and then takes it to Hershey to pay for his dinner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930scott Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 looks like it would fit my 1930 buick,not sure about 1929 or 31 but there are 2 sizes standard and master cars scott Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Morgan Wright Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Ding ding we have a winner. I wonder what year the dimmer switch went to the left foot. My '40 has it, cars all had that until the 70's when they went European. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930scott Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 1934 buick was a foot dipper switch but not sure if it was the first year maybe 1932 was first Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somorgujo Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 On 8/6/2018 at 9:52 PM, Brian_Heil said: Sort of related. I got this part in a box of other Buick parts. Can anyone identify? Too new for me. For Sale once I figure out what I have. I would say it would buff up like new if you were careful. I'm not looking to get rich, more interested in helping this part find a home and help someone out. Don't be the guy who buys this and then takes it to Hershey to pay for his dinner. Hi, This bakelite part is perfect for my 1930 Buick. It doesn´t matter if it is standard or Master because I´m trying to complete these steering wheel parts. I´m looking for the wooden parts of the steering wheel. If you still have this part, please tell me how can I make to buy it. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somorgujo Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Hi, This bakelite part is perfect for my 1930 Buick. It doesn´t matter if it is standard or Master because I´m trying to complete these steering wheel parts. I´m looking for the wooden parts of the steering wheel. If you still have this part, please tell me how can I make to buy it. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted August 8, 2018 Share Posted August 8, 2018 Let me find what box it is in and post some dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradsan Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 For those who don't want to take their horn button apart ( and I would not advise it) Here is a photo I forgot I took of the exploded horn button and the exploded parts that go with it! The rivets are set/cast into the button bakelite and then the brass disc/body assembly is riveted to it so replacing the rivets is pretty much impossible! The body can be recreated from a piece of 1" Delrin rod although it gets pretty intricate. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted August 20, 2018 Author Share Posted August 20, 2018 (edited) I completed one throttle washer today. I sure do appreciate all of the help with dimensions and advice. I bought a small piece of stainless and used a couple of bimetal hole saws and a grinder. It's all polished up and ready to go. Too bad that this is a 1925 Buick Standard 1 year only part. Hugh Edited August 20, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AussieBuick Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 I am chasing a horn button for a 1923-4-35 , please keep me mind should one turn up. Thanks Norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEK Posted April 7 Share Posted April 7 Thanks to all that posted to this page I finally got my Buick 1925-24 horn button to work. I was able to remove it from the steering wheel and saw all the parts were there except for the springs that hold the 2 friction pads out. I didn’t have a clue they were missing until I saw the photo Hugh posted. The button never worked because I could never get continuity through the ground wire and I didn’t want to mess with the button because I was concerned I would break it. After seeing the photos I decided to carefully give it a try and got it out easily without damage. The button appeared to be in good condition so I just soaked it overnight in a vinegar bath then reassembeled with the 2 springs and new wire. That was just what the doctor ordered! Works perfectly now. Tweeted it to I get the best aooogha sound. Now if the weather here in Colorado would cooperate I would take her out for a test. Seems like a can’t get more than a mile down the road before someone honks or is waving at the car… 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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