RatFink255

Newbie with 1922 Buick Model 35 Touring car

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Hello every one, My name is Brice,

 

As stated in the Topic title I am a new novice to the AACA forms and reviving an antique car.Little did I know that the 1949 Allis Chalmers "C" Model tractor that he started me on would lead to fishing the Buick but it did. The Allis was not quite a basket case but not far either. My brother said he did not think it would ever run again. Dad said he was testing me to see if I could do the 1922 Buick. So enters the the touring car.

 

What I have is a 1922 Buick Model 35 Touring car. A bit of history how I got going on this is that my father started it and at going on 84 years old decided that he did not want to spend the time finishing it so he passed it along to me. He had made good progress on it as you can see from the pictures. But alas life gets in the way and he just feels like there are a few other things that he wants to put his time into. Now my turn, LOL, I seem to have a bit more time than he does so onward with the show.

 

I have been reading the AACA forms for a wile now and finally have managed to get the entire car to my work shop as had to move it from Norther Illinois to Eastern Kansas over a two three week period, hence why I have not jumped on the form until now. Car is project in the works. Seeing as dad started it by striping the paint on body had seats reupholster it will be so to speak a restored type but not 100% original. I am not going to change any thing mechanically as using parts from other engines and drive train of the time. My end goal is for it to look like it was new when someone brought it home for the first time before the wear and tear has been introduced. I plan on driving it regularly to work and about town with wife and two dogs in the back seat weather permitting once done. I am looking for to seeing it take life again and have fun driving it. So you can see here are a couple pictures of where it is at my starting point. 

 

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Brice, 

     Welcome to the forum.  It looks like you have a very nice car to start with.  I am always glad to see a model 35, because you share several parts with a 1925 model 25.  You should create list of parts that you are looking for.  The search for parts takes a long time.  Almost no Master or early 6 cylinder parts will work for our cars.  When you start to pull things apart I have a lot of technical information and my car has been completely disassembled.  To each his own, but I have a lot of 90 year old sludge everywhere that I wanted to remove, and I wanted to minimize any future issues, so I tend to do an entire tear down and rebuilding.  

What is your plan for the motor?   What about the body.  How is the wood.  Do you have a top and side curtains?  Hugh

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Hugh,

Thank you for reaching out to me with advise and encouragement.

 

The Motor I am thinking about spraying up into the case in general and on crank, piston rods and camshaft some gas to try and flushing out the any of stuff that may be in there and to start with and get the pistons unstuck if they are (have not tried yet still taking basic inventory of all the parts).  I am looking for one push rod as the one pictured here is pitted the others are in great shape.

 

Body looks to be in good shape one broken spot on drivers rear that I think the top bows attach to. I was think of using Tightbond 3 wood glue to reattach as it is weather proof and has great adhesion and drys clear enough to repaint. The body does not have hardly any dings surprisingly so that should make the process smoother.

 

I do not have a top or side curtains as yet. I do have the bows for the top and metal hardware that the bows are secured into (have brain freeze trying to think of what they are called). One other thing trying figure out on form pages is how to post more than three four pictures at a time. I see others that have posted 8 or 9 in a single post so the posting of more views is a bit slow in coming. Brice

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Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)

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Hi Brice, 

     I have taken all the wood out of my car.  I only replaced a few small pieces.  The problem that I ran into was that water dissolved the original glue, but the wood was in really good shape.  I have used 2 things to repair wood.  I bought this from www.rotdoctor.com  CPES (clear penetrating epoxy sealer) , and their wood epoxy glue.  The sealer will soak in and strengthen the original wood, and you really should use epoxy to repair it.  The epoxy has a long set up time which is nice for having time to adjust things.  If fixing the repair shown, slide a plastic bag behind the glue area to prevent gluing the wood to the metal.  

 

I have had to adjust my camera pixel size.  My cell phone, and my hand held take around 3MB or larger, so you can only post 2 maybe 3 pictures at a time.  I use my hand held camera all the time because I have adjusted them to just over 1 MB on all my new photos.  I wish I had done this sooner.  I have to take a lot of photos to document and I am now running out of disc space on my computer.

 

I don't have a pushrod of that style, but someone on the Forum may.  

 

The fenders take most of the dings.  It keeps the bodywork in good shape.  

 

At some point we will be working on tops and side curtains.  Glad that you have the wood bows and the sockets.  Those are the hard parts to locate.

 

The metal piece in your hand is for the top rest bolt and the top rest.  I would have to see if your car takes the black painted clamp style or the nickle plated rest.  

Be sure to look at the Pre War links at the top of this forum.

Hugh 

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Edited by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

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Brice:

 As Hugh indicated the piece you have in your hand is where the rear seat Iron stud threads into for the top holder clamp. There will be a right and left hand version. I will check the parts book. I hope you have the correct top sockets and bows. On my 1925-25 they worked up an set probably from an older, larger car possibly a 1921-1923-45. Cut/fit and re-weld. It is a top but is too tall and does not fit correctly. It does have the correct Johnston oval window that would go with your car. All I need is to find the correct socket set for mine...I have been looking since 2011 and no luck so far.

 A photo of the top that Hugh has for his car.

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Also a restored 1922-35 at Hershey a few years ago.

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Welcome Brice, Looks like a nice project! You will not find a better bunch of guys with the knowledge for advise and encouragement as you have here.Good luck and keep us posted on the progress.      Ronnie

Edited by carmover (see edit history)

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The puch rod are a little bit different on the bottom of the rod on 1923-1924 4 cyl.But the total lenght are the same. close to 17".

Leif in Sweden.

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Morgan,

 

Thank you I will touch base with you about the headlight/ignition switch and interior light in a day or so still have some parts in boxes from the move from Northern Illinois to Eastern Kansas hope to have gone through all the boxes this weekend. 

 

Brice

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Leif,

 

I have thought about looking for a longer push rod that may be the same and cut threads with thread die farther down the shaft then trim off to proper length has anyone have any luck trying that idea. Just a trying to think out side the box so to speak if necessary. Do you know any other years that may have the same bottom as the 1922 four cyl. I am still waiting for the parts book I ordered from Buick Heritage Alliance. I do think that the push rod may work fine for a number of years the way it is however i figured since it is apart I should just replace it now so if it does fail damage will not occur.

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3 hours ago, RatFink255 said:

Morgan,

 

Thank you I will touch base with you about the headlight/ignition switch and interior light in a day or so still have some parts in boxes from the move from Northern Illinois to Eastern Kansas hope to have gone through all the boxes this weekend. 

 

Brice

 

 

Also, if you need a NOS dial face for the speedometer I have this one. Looks brand new, will make your car look spit shined. If you buy the other 2 items I'll toss this in for free.

 

 

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I don’t think it will be easy to find a similar puch rod from other cars,just becuse most of the cars are side valve engines.Try to find the part from 1923-1924 4 cyl  Buick, can’t belive that will be hard to find.

If you don’t find any I can help you,but the shipping will be more costly than the puch rod I think.10 dollar for the rod.

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Morgan,

 

I did dig through the other boxes last night  and it looks like I do need the two items you are talking about the ignition switch/headlight switch and the map light. Looking at the face on the speedometer of mine it could stand a face lift. If you send me your contact info and total pricing we can get things in the works. Thank you for offering on these items to me.

 

Brice

Edited by RatFink255 (see edit history)

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I will send all 3 items for $100 postage paid

 

Send check to

 

Morgan Wright

Stonequist Apartments # 216

1 S. Federal St

Saratoga Springs, NY 12866

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Well I got one of George's Hub Pullers to get back hubs off glad I did. Defiantly made things easier and quicker, it put a bit of a dent in budget for the car but hey some times that happens just work a bit of overtime to make it up. Now that the hubs are off clean up time. From the looks of it seams that the break friction pads still have some life left.

 

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Brice, When you have a spare moment could you post a photo of the sill (main runner)  from the centre pillar to the foot well under the cowl ?

I tried lightening your earlier post of the cowl / dash but no luck.. Many Thanks Norm

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Brice;  Even though the brake bands look very usable I believe they are asbestos and dangerous to health.  You can get them relined at frictions shops locally with superior and safer modern linings.  I had two brake bands and two parking brake bands relined for about 350.00 Canadian including tax which would be a bit over $200 in your money.

 

Best of luck, Gary

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cxvgd, I have thought of that as well and glad you mentioned it just confirms my thoughts. I agree that may be a good idea to have them reclined with something a bit safer. Do you know what the original thickness of the pads should be for each of the bands inner and outer?

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Norm, sorry just got your post I will get couple posted for you tomorrow. I see Hugh posted some on his 25 which gives good view with no body attached. I will get you a few with body panels to see if there is any differences can be seen.

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