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Mad_Bohemian

More Brake Questions....

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So we finally got the house done and moved in Dec of 2016, Spent last summer building the pole barn, got the car in around Sept of last year and gave them a thorough cleaning. The 89 had a seized passenger front caliper but everything else worked fine, the 90 was all peaches and cream :D  Finally got the honey-do list to a manageable point last month and decided to take  the car up for a warm-up run on the 1/2 mile run of our road. The 90 also no had a seized passenger caliper, and by the time I took the short run with about 2 braking executions...the pedal went hard on me.  Same issue with the 89. 😠

Yesterday I did some preliminary trouble shooting:

The 89 - passenger side fuse under the hood is good. Pump runs then stops, still hard brake pedal

the 90 - fuse blown - I replaced it, seems like the pedal is still  hard, I didn't want to do any driving with the caliper in its current state so I will be replacing on both cars. My question is.... would a seized caliper contribute/cause the hard brake pedal? If I decide to convert these two to  ABS systems, does anyone have a current-day ball park price on parts?

As always guys, TIA

MB

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14 hours ago, Mad_Bohemian said:

My question is.... would a seized caliper contribute/cause the hard brake pedal? If I decide to convert these two to  ABS systems, does anyone have a current-day ball park price on parts?

As always guys, TIA

MB

Answer to the first question=NO.   On the second question, do you mean "convert FROM ABS system?

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5 hours ago, Mad_Bohemian said:

yes,,, from the stock Teves system.... thanks  :D

Mostly junkyard parts from something like a LeBaron of the same year vintage, you only really need a new master cylinder for 4 wheel disc brakes. THAT IS IMPORTANT, 4 WHEEL DISC BRAKES.

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So the close up is looking at the joint near the bottom of the riser. Should that be a solid connection??  I can move the accumulator and this connection is not solid. I'm probably going to update both car's brake system, but now curiosity has gotten the better of me and I'd like to at least know WHY these don't work.

 

 

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Edited by Mad_Bohemian (see edit history)

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I have some experience with the Teves system..... I am the BCA technical advisor for Buick Reatta....which had the Teves system from 1988-1990.

Our Reattas do not have that hex riser but the accumulator should be ridged.   In the right photo, it looks like the "O" ring is not in place (that orange thing)

A hard pedal is almost always an indication of no pressure.  

One test I use........with the key OFF pump the pedal until it gets hard.

Clean the brake reservoir so you can see the fluid level......put a piece of tape on the side and make the level on the tape.

Now turn ON the key.....no need to start the engine.

When the pump stops pumping....look at the fluid level in the reservoir....and mark the tape.

There should be a difference of up to 7/16.... less is good.

However if the fluid level stays the same....the diaphragm in the accumulator has split or has a hole,  so the accumulator is not doing its job...not holding pressure.

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15 hours ago, Mad_Bohemian said:

So the close up is looking at the joint near the bottom of the riser. Should that be a solid connection??  I can move the accumulator and this connection is not solid. I'm probably going to update both car's brake system, but now curiosity has gotten the better of me and I'd like to at least know WHY these don't work.

 

 

 

To answer your specific question, The hex riser and accumulator should be moveable as it is. The 'riser' is mounted in flexible bushings which allow for movement similar to your engine mounted in flexible rubber bushings.

The answer to WHY is because you still have the original accumulator and it IS NO DOUBT DEFECTIVE after almost 30 years of service.

Check the fuse/relay box on the right inner fender panel, fuse farthest to the left as you look down in the fuse/relay box. Pull it out and inspect the legs that plug into the wiring.

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So I got some time to work on the cars this weekend. On the 89  both 30amp fuses were blown. I replaced them but when I turn on the key, the pump for the brakes doesn't even run. I unplugged/plugged all three relays in with still no luck. Double checked the fuses and they are good. At this point I'm kind of stumped on why it seems I'm getting no power to the pump. Ideas?

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2 hours ago, Mad_Bohemian said:

So I got some time to work on the cars this weekend. On the 89  both 30amp fuses were blown. I replaced them but when I turn on the key, the pump for the brakes doesn't even run. I unplugged/plugged all three relays in with still no luck. Double checked the fuses and they are good. At this point I'm kind of stumped on why it seems I'm getting no power to the pump. Ideas?

Have you checked, with a voltmeter, for 12V at the connector AT the pump wire terminal?

If you have 12V power to one terminal and the other terminal in the 2 wire connector is grounded, the pump has failed.

Do you have a Chrysler Service Manual with the WIRING DIAGRAMS?

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1 hour ago, Reaper1 said:

Pump, wiring, or pressure sensor.

Hopefully the Mad_Bohemian understands what I wrote.

Hemi...
"I can explain it to you but I cannot understand it for you"

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On 8/8/2018 at 12:21 AM, Hemi Dude said:

Have you checked, with a voltmeter, for 12V at the connector AT the pump wire terminal?

If you have 12V power to one terminal and the other terminal in the 2 wire connector is grounded, the pump has failed.

Do you have a Chrysler Service Manual with the WIRING DIAGRAMS?

Yes I have the manual. I've been busy chopping wood for the upcoming winter here in Michigan so I haven't been able to be on here much this week. :D
Not sure  what you mean but let me look at the manual this weekend, if I have questions I'll PM you. Thanks guys

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What I mean by my statement; "Have you checked, with a voltmeter, for 12V at the connector AT the pump wire terminal?

The pump has a 2 wire harness with a connector. This harness feeds 12V to the pump motor through 1 wire, the other wire is the ground. 

If you disconnect the wire harness at that point, you should be able to check for 12V on your voltmeter if you have the ignition turned ON and the fuses and relays are operating as they should. Check the other wire for GROUND using the Ohm meter. 

When you pulled out the fuses, did you see something like what the picture shows? If so, you better fix that before you do anything else.640182436_5-Burntfuseholder.JPG.0513650cad0db5e93e0993dc6ac3f5c5.JPG

Edited by Hemi Dude (see edit history)

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Hemi Dude......did you sneak into my pole barn and take a picture of my car..?!?!  Pretty much looks like that. The fuse that goes there got warm but didn't blow.

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13 hours ago, Mad_Bohemian said:

Hemi Dude......did you sneak into my pole barn and take a picture of my car..?!?!  Pretty much looks like that. The fuse that goes there got warm but didn't blow.

YES! Did you do something about the terminals down in that melted plastic, they are likely burnt away. That is why nothing works.

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