Questions on a 4 Cylinder Carb Rebuild

[DB26]

Hey everyone, I recently purchased a rebuild kit from Myers for my 1926's carburetor. I have two questions:

 

Does the carburetor disassemble any further than this photo shows? I don't want to take anything apart that isn't necessary. 

 

 

My second questions is:

 

My rebuild didn't come with the packing that was in this assembly (Bell crank pinion shaft) Where can I get this packing? It reminds me of what you'd see in an old hose bib. 

 

 

 

Thanks everyone. 

Edited July 28, 2018 by DB26 (see edit history)

[cahartley]

I can''t imagine what could be in a kit.

I worked on more than a few carbs with that float and needle setup and never ran into one that leaked.

Stromberg and at least one other used the identical setup in the gas bowl.

The rest of this particular carburetor has nothing that I can imagine being in a kit except a needle seat.

You can soap some heavy thread or string and use it for packing.

I hope you paid attention to the relationship of the gear and the rack.

I believe there are directions in the Dodge Brothers Shop Manual

 

[RichBad]

Hi, I got the packing cord from Myers, I think it came with the rebuild kit but may have been seperate.  The air valve that goes through the middle of the carb can be removed. I made up a special tool with two pins and used this to unscrew the bottom end whilst he flats on the top of the valve were held in a vice.

 

There are a few pics from my rebuild here (slightly later model but similar) 

 

[DB26]

Thanks guys. Those pics of your rebuild are priceless. The "kit" I bought is just some gaskets. I will investigate how I will unscrew that final portion of the carb. I think im going to dip everything in Chem dip once it's all apart. 

 

Illl give Myers and ROMAR a call about the packing. 

 

My main question now is now that the gear and the rack are apart, what did I need to pay attention to? It all seemed pretty straight forward and I didn't see anything that looked specificly set or complicated. I do have a Mechanics Instruction Manual, but it doesn't go into great detail on full dissasebmy. 

[RichBad]

The gear to rack position isn’t too important but what is important is where the lever gets fitted on the end of the shaft.  From memory you set that position to where the air valve is just lifting from the seat (it can be fine tuned with the screw later).  I think there are some instructions on this forum somewhere.  Don’t worry it’s a pretty simple carb, mine was full of crud and stripping it completely and giving it a good soak and scrub on the internals made a huge difference.  I also changed the float valve to a viton one and made a heap of difference to how the car runs.

[cahartley]

If the rack and pinion are not properly indexed you'll have little or no idle mixture adjustment.

The high speed adjustment is automatic based on manifold vacuum.

The thumb screw operates the pinion shaft which moves the needle away from or to the seat to vary the mixture.

This is not a conventional carburetor with an adjustable idle jet.

[RichBad]

6 hours ago, cahartley said:

If the rack and pinion are not properly indexed you'll have little or no idle mixture adjustment.

The high speed adjustment is automatic based on manifold vacuum.

The thumb screw operates the pinion shaft which moves the needle away from or to the seat to vary the mixture.

This is not a conventional carburetor with an adjustable idle jet.

But it’s a rack and pinion so how can the position matter as the lever is attached on seperate splines.  Unless the earlier models are different from 27/28 then the position of the pinion to the rack makes no difference.  When assembled you just have to rotate the pinion so that it lifts the needle until it just contacts the air valve and then fit the operating lever.  This gives you a good starting position and then the screw can be used for fine adjustment.

[David_Leech]

http://www.thecarburetorshop.com

[cahartley]

18 hours ago, RichBad said:

But it’s a rack and pinion so how can the position matter as the lever is attached on seperate splines.  Unless the earlier models are different from 27/28 then the position of the pinion to the rack makes no difference.  When assembled you just have to rotate the pinion so that it lifts the needle until it just contacts the air valve and then fit the operating lever.  This gives you a good starting position and then the screw can be used for fine adjustment.

 

If it was "guess where it goes" thing there wouldn't be assembly instructions.

Sadly the link with instuctions I posted here some time ago in another thread now goes to a dead domain.......

[DB26]

Well I'm sure with some trial and error I will get it working ok. 

[22touring]

Mine didn't work because the metering rod was swaged into the air valve, but the swaging had failed and they had separated.  I didn't figure this out for a long time because I didn't have a good understanding of how the carb worked.