63 Suction Throttling Valve

[Turbinator]

The air conditioner low side pressure is 60 lbs. Does anyone if the STV can be adjusted down 30lb?

The R12 level in the system has not been checked for proper amount of Freon. R12 could be too high or too low. Thank you Red Riviera Bob

[flh73]

I'm messing with this a little as well.  I charged mine with R12. The system was clean except for the original receiver dryer.  got about 2.5 pounds in the system not really cooling down but high pressure side spiked and blew the blow off valve to relieve pressure out the compressor.  Sight glass looks murky shortly after so i figure  desicant bag inside blew apart.  So i'm at new dryer and flushing system again.

 

Now to your questions, the service manual describes the STV adjustment to change pressure. I thought this was fine tuning but maybe we can get 20-30 lower pressure.   I have a questions as well.  Does it make sense to rebuild the STV (new seal etc.) or upgrade and convert to a more modern and reliable system.  I've searched and got some pretty good information, see link.

 

[Turbinator]

From what I’ve heard, the clutch on the compressor has to be compatible with the electronic upgrade engaging and disengaging the compressor.  I had my STV rebuilt by Old Air.  I don’t know if my STV is failing or I’m low or too high with refrigerant. I stayed with the R12 in hopes of getting colder air. I’m old fashion in my thinking it is better to stay with original design OR, start with an entirely new aftermarket AC. So far, I’m deep in cash outlay in an old system and After 3 seasons no cold air. My upgrades inc. new  A6 compressor, rebuilt STV. New drier, NOS vacuum switch, all new vacuum actuators, new check valve, new vacuum lines. 3.4 lbs. of R12. And way too much in half baked AC labor.

im taking the car to a shop that has been around along time that specializes in AC and radiator only. I’m in hopes they will evacuate the system, weigh the refrigerant, test for leaks, check out the STV. I’ve run down all the controls. The failure must be in the refrigeration cycle. I don’t have the tools nor knowledge of how to fix that stuff. I’ll post the progress.

RRB

[Turbinator]

I went to the specialty AC shop this afternoon. The owner said, he  will check the system out and put in R12 if I want. Additionally, he suggested I convert to 134A as opposed to R12. His reasoning for conversion to the 134 A was it is available and much less expensive than R12. The owner went to say the 134A will not cool like the R12. The owner said if R12 gives you 30 degrees the vent and 134 a gives 40 degrees how cold you want to get?

ill keep you posted.

[1965rivgs]

Bob,

    I believe I posted previously that relative to your wondering whether you had too much gas in the system or too little...if you have too much gas in the system your low side pressure might climb to 60lbs but then you should also see high side pressure at a significantly elevated level. What is your high side pressure when the low side is at 60lbs?

  BUT, you state you have charged 3.4 lbs of R12 into the system which is nowhere near an overcharge for the original system. It has been awhile since I charged a first gen Riv but I want to say the standard charge is at least 4 lbs. So, it doesnt make sense that your low side is 60lbs with a low refrigerant charge. With a low refrigerant charge your low side should be low, like 20 lbs or so, depending on ambient temps and air flow across the condenser.

  Keep in mind ALL pressure readings are dependent on operating conditions...what is the ambient temp? What is the humidity level? Is there air flow across the condenser? All these variables will affect exact operating pressures....but trends are revealing.

  It helps immensely to know that one has the correct amount of refrigerant eliminating guess work. Given the high side pressure is in line with expectations speaks to the health of the compressor, or at least the ability to build pressure on the high side. If the high side is within expectations given the correct volume of refrigerant we know what to expect from the low side. If the low side, whose value is directly related to the evap temp, is not as expected, then there is an issue with whatever variable or fixed restriction is present in the system, whether that may be an expansion valve in combo with an STV, or fixed orifice tube. I have also experienced an elevated low side pressure caused by a bad valve in the compressor which bleeds high side pressure back into the low side...such a circumstance will usually be accompanied  a repeatedly fluctuating pressure needle on the high side.

  May be time to take a look at your expansion valve? Dont know exactly what you have or havnt done as I have not been following this thread...just throwing some tidbits out there to consider,

Tom

[KongaMan]

7 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

I went to the specialty AC shop this afternoon. The owner said, he  will check the system out and put in R12 if I want. Additionally, he suggested I convert to 134A as opposed to R12. His reasoning for conversion to the 134 A was it is available and much less expensive than R12. The owner went to say the 134A will not cool like the R12. The owner said if R12 gives you 30 degrees the vent and 134 a gives 40 degrees how cold you want to get?

 

Sanity check: are there bubbles in the drier window? 

 

If you're just a little low, topping off with R12 is much cheaper than converting to 134A.

 

Will he guarantee that you'll get 40° air with 134A?

[Turbinator]

Mr. Konga Man , when the engine  is running and the AC is on full cool and full fan there are a few bubbles in the drier window.

i heartily agree topping off with R12 is the best way to go. From what I’ve read the evaporator and expansion valve should be changed over to 134a IF a conversion were to happen.

 

The gent did guarantee I’d get 40degrees from 134a. 

‘I believe at this juncture ‘pI’ll stay with the R12. At 3.4 lbs. per spec for my AC system the dollar cost for the gas is small compared to my aggravation level. I’ll request the system be evacuated, monitored for leaks, STV adjusted as needed, and filled withR12.

 

( I replaced the 2 vacuum with a single diaphram with 2 ports The heater box fastener removal was real hard, real hard. I saved The dilapidated original 2 diaphrams for attempted repair later as you described)

 

thank you you for your sanity check, greatly appreciated 

RRB

[1965rivgs]

Bob,

  Almost certain R-12 capacity on an early Riv is over 4 lbs and most probably 4.25 lbs. I dont have access to any reference material or my cars, maybe someone can check the compressor decal on their car and chime in. A full refrigerant charge should be in place before one goes about evaluating performance or troubleshooting

Tom Mooney

[Turbinator]

Tom, thank you again for your input and thoughtful analysis. I m looking at the 1963 Buick Service Manual we use and on page 11-38 section c. miscellaneous - I’m summarizing  -the 4700-3 1/2 lbs r3frigerant. 4400, 4600, 4800 4 lbs. of refrigerant. In any case, I’m taking the vehicle to the AC shop and tell him what I’ve done to AC. I’ll request we use R12 and I’ll tell him, “ please repair the AC so I have cold air.”

I don’t want to tell the shop owner his business. I’ll let him do his work. I’ll report what progress I’ve made in my quest for cold air in my 63 Red Riviera. I don’t have the gauges, recovery machine and know how to proceed from here. I’m happy the shop seems confident he can fix the problem. We shall see. Many thanks to all who have offered great help so I could get this far on the project.

Red Riviera Bob

[1965rivgs]

14 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Tom, thank you again for your input and thoughtful analysis. I m looking at the 1963 Buick Service Manual we use and on page 11-38 section c. miscellaneous - I’m summarizing  -the 4700-3 1/2 lbs r3frigerant. 4400, 4600, 4800 4 lbs. of refrigerant. In any case, I’m taking the vehicle to the AC shop and tell him what I’ve done to AC. I’ll request we use R12 and I’ll tell him, “ please repair the AC so I have cold air.”

I don’t want to tell the shop owner his business. I’ll let him do his work. I’ll report what progress I’ve made in my quest for cold air in my 63 Red Riviera. I don’t have the gauges, recovery machine and know how to proceed from here. I’m happy the shop seems confident he can fix the problem. We shall see. Many thanks to all who have offered great help so I could get this far on the project.

Red Riviera Bob

Hmm, interesting. I`ve never consulted the shop manual while servicing the AC because the required quantity is on the compressor decal? They do list different quantities depending on model but I was under the impression the "big cars" including the Riviera called for the larger quantity?

Tom

[Rivman]

16 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

Bob,

  Almost certain R-12 capacity on an early Riv is over 4 lbs and most probably 4.25 lbs. I dont have access to any reference material or my cars, maybe someone can check the compressor decal on their car and chime in. A full refrigerant charge should be in place before one goes about evaluating performance or troubleshooting

Tom Mooney

 

Sorry, I can't help with diagnosing your problems Bob, but, I did look at the compressor on my '65 and it does state that a full charge is 4.25 lbs.

 

Just wanted to let you know that you were right on Tom.

[60FlatTop]

The regulations on refrigerant since the Montreal Protocol in 1987 have brought some good refrigeration equipment into common use. One of the best I have found is the recovery machine and use of recovery bottles. I taught refrigeration in an apprenticeship program from 1982 to 1998. Charging methods were always sketchy. Instructions were often anecdotal and measurements of test temperatures were often hard to get accurately. Usually the manufacturer's recommended charge was specified, but hard to figure out in service.

 

About 1992 I was responsible for four liquid chillers that had a history of being "problem" units. Everybody and his brother had monkeyed with them and charge was the first target. (if you check the charge often enough you loose it. Now we have low volume 4" hoses). I think the chillers I mentioned required something like an 85 pound charge of R22 that was verified by assumption.

I talked the boss into letting me buy a 125 recovery bottle and removed the total charge from each chiller to service it. Then I weighed the charge to factory spec and recharged them. They ran flawlessly. I would just walk by in the morning and check the performance on the gauges.

 

I have been a firm believer in a correct, weighed charge ever since. And I didn't like the previous methods to begin with.

Bernie

 

Just remembered an R113 machine that had a 2800 pound charge, took all that out, too. I was left with 400 pounds extra that had been added. If all the mechanical parts are right, there is a flow of heat across the evaporator, and a good capability of heat rejection, it is pretty hard for them not to work right, given a correct charge.

Edited July 22, 2018 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[Turbinator]

Gents, I know what I read and the manual says 3 1/2 lbs got the 4700. Now having written what I read I’m happy to be wrong based on generally accepted practice. Here is a pic of my compressor. I cannot find any info on the compressor label indicating Freon spec. Could be the Freon spec is stamped on the compressor in the area I can’t see.

[Turbinator]

6 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

The regulations on refrigerant since the Montreal Protocol in 1987 have brought some good refrigeration equipment into common use. One of the best I have found is the recovery machine and use of recovery bottles. I taught refrigeration in an apprenticeship program from 1982 to 1998. Charging methods were always sketchy. Instructions were often anecdotal and measurements of test temperatures were often hard to get accurately. Usually the manufacturer's recommended charge was specified, but hard to figure out in service.

 

About 1992 I was responsible for four liquid chillers that had a history of being "problem" units. Everybody and his brother had monkeyed with them and charge was the first target. (if you check the charge often enough you loose it. Now we have low volume 4" hoses). I think the chillers I mentioned required something like an 85 pound charge of R22 that was verified by assumption.

I talked the boss into letting me buy a 125 recovery bottle and removed the total charge from each chiller to service it. Then I weighed the charge to factory spec and recharged them. They ran flawlessly. I would just walk by in the morning and check the performance on the gauges.

 

I have been a firm believer in a correct, weighed charge ever since. And I didn't like the previous methods to begin with.

Bernie

Bernie, so if I understand correctly the 63 Buick Manual specification carries some weight in speculating how much gas to put the the AC?

[Turbinator]

FYI

[60FlatTop]

Bob, Your picture is an aftermarket compressor. That vendor would not know the charge of the specific application. Then you would default to the factory literature. Sometimes a Service Bulletin would be issued to amend the Shop Manual.

I'll look around. My manual is in the garage, didn't make it there yet, today.

Bernie

Edited July 22, 2018 by 60FlatTop (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

There you go. In black and white.

[Turbinator]

9 hours ago, Rivman said:

 

Sorry, I can't help with diagnosing your problems Bob, but, I did look at the compressor on my '65 and it does state that a full charge is 4.25 lbs.

 

Just wanted to let you know that you were right on Tom.

Gents, thanks again. I hope the 65 Riv has a better AC/Heater control design than the 63 Riv. I looked at the manufacturers spec on my A6 compressor and apparently they must think the maintenance man knows how much to charge the system. I cannot find a spec on how much Freon to use other than the 63 Buick Service Manual, which is 3 1/2 lbs. I appreciate all your help. I truly believe what you say for the 65. I suspect the 4700 AC is different from the other 63 AC systems as the Service Manual does indicate many different detailing differences. I’m taking the car in to an AC shop I believe will stick with me until we get cold air. I feel that is a major step forward. Thank you.

[Turbinator]

On 7/22/2018 at 11:33 AM, 60FlatTop said:

There you go. In black and white.

Bernie, there you go black and white. I pulled out the compressor that was replaced ( Frigidaire) model 6550108 and found stamped on an ID Tag “ 4700 3.5

44,45,4800 4.0. See the pics.

[60FlatTop]

Good, your original verifies the manual. The APCO rebuilt could have used a core from another, similar GM car and the charge, if a tag was cast originally  could be misleading.

 

Sometimes a change may happen outside the production window of the factory shop manual. It is good to have the factory service bulletins as well. Here is a link to Jim Cannon's offering a few years back. You can't have too much technical data:

 

[Turbinator]

Bernie, your comment about the APCO being rebuilt brings up an interesting topic regarding newly manufactured, rebuilt, refurbished, reconditioned parts. 

I bought the APCO ( Alma product) as newly manufactured. Again, I’m happy to be wrong. APCO advertises newly built A6 compressors. I have Jim’s TSB’s on CD.

I have two fairly reliable sources, the service manual and the compressor that came off the car both indicating 3.5 lbs.

Thank you for your help.

Red Riviera Bob

[1965rivgs]

12 hours ago, Red Riviera Bob said:

Bernie, your comment about the APCO being rebuilt brings up an interesting topic regarding newly manufactured, rebuilt, refurbished, reconditioned parts. 

I bought the APCO ( Alma product) as newly manufactured. Again, I’m happy to be wrong. APCO advertises newly built A6 compressors. I have Jim’s TSB’s on CD.

I have two fairly reliable sources, the service manual and the compressor that came off the car both indicating 3.5 lbs.

Thank you for your help.

Red Riviera Bob

Bob,

  Havnt done AC work on a `63 in years and about 2 or 3 years since doing a `65. I`m very surprised the stated capacity of the `63 and `65 systems is different! Without checking the parts books and as far as I know, the major components of the refirgeration system on each model are the same or at least the same size, so why the capacities are different is a puzzle to me.

  Having stated the above I seem to recall some early `63`s were built without the AC muffler next to the compressor? My memory is fuzzy regarding said change and I dont currently have access to the service bulletins so perhaps a clue as to a change might be found there? Dont know if yours has the AC muffler or not?

  If you use R12, probably best to use the sight glass to be sure the system is full. There needs to be a solid column of refrigerant available at the expansion valve for proper evaluation of the valve.

  Great that you have the original compressor with the metal info tag. That is an awesome eng detail item,

Tom

[Turbinator]

Tom, thanks again for the input regarding data collection regarding specifications on the AC system. I’m going to check the CD I got from Jim Cannon regarding Technical Service Bulletin updates to the 63 Service Bulletin. Generally, I’m IN FAVOR  of “ generally accepted practice” in many things we do in life. I go for what works as opposed to sometimes erroneous information in tech manuals. In my AC case I’ve been “fooling” around with the AC way too long for my sanity. Your explanation regarding visible steady flow of refrigerant through the sight glass makes plenty sense to me. 

Ill report information regarding more research from the TSB’s.

Thank you for your help.

Red Riviera Bob

PS, my 63 uses an AC MUFFLER.

Edited July 26, 2018 by Red Riviera Bob
Omission (see edit history)

[Turbinator]

My ac used a AC MUFFLER.

[60FlatTop]

The muffler smooths out the pulses from the compressor pistons running on the nutating disc drive, 6 of them.

 

The sight glass shows bubbles to indicate a low charge due to refrigerant flashing off at a slight restriction. The sight glass is always installed downstream of the filter.drier to also indicate a restriction in that device. I see it was changed, but there is a possibility it may be causing the bubbles. My background is not in automotive refrigeration, more heavy commercial. I once had a mechanic tell me when the bubbles cleared his head pressure was too high. When he released some charge the head pressure was OK but the bubbles came back. I asked "Why is the sight glass downstream or the filter.drier?" He changed the filter/drier and things worked fine. That may not be your specific problem, but that is the systemic approach needed to diagnose it.

 

On the documented differences in refrigerant charges in the early 1960's of a pound or so, that was a transitional period between a fixed orifice, flooded evaporator system and the TXV control, which would probably account for the differences. A data sheet would not necessarily indicate which system was installed.

 

I can see where the frustration can build. Went I bought my car there was no compressor installed. Living up here in the frozen wilds of western New York, the 40 years haven't provided any urgency for me to look into the AC. I saved a compressor from a Cadillac I parted out 25 years ago, but it hung around the garage so long I threw it out. We just had 5 or 6 hot days and I noticed the hardware store just put out a display of snow shovels this week. No motivation, I just drove the truck on the hot days.

 

Bob, don't worry about the sanity. This is the kind of stuff that makes sound minds and extends lives.

Bernie

[Turbinator]

Bernie, I was just reading about the basic principles of AC. Heat transfer, liquid to gas, gas to liquid, what each part does in the cycle. Found out a chap named Carrier invented COOLING by machine in 1902. “ Nothing keeps your food like ice.” Refrigeration was just a fad, just like 3D printing is a fad. I would sell electro fax ( wet ) copying machines against xerographic ( dry printing) copiers known as Xerox- another fad. It was all uphill selling against Xerox, but I made sales. 

Im sure I have the Riv AC on the ropes. The STV May need to be adjusted to get the very high pressure on the low side down to around 28-30lbs. Could be the STV was NOT adjusted when it came back from being rebuilt at Old Air.

Stay Cool,

RRB

[Turbinator]

Gents, another trip to specialty AC shop. The owner filled the R12 up to “full”. Shopowner is satisfied his diagnostics revealed pressures he liked on all fronts. The owner said the reason we still don’t have cold air is because the doors are not opened properly to let the cold air in. The owner said we have to figure out why the door(s) are not letting the cold air in. Beats me. I’ve put in all new replacement vacuum actuators and feel confident I have all the vacuum hoses going to right place.

 

Red Riviera Bob

[Jim Cannon]

You can disconnect the vacuum actuator on the firewall and pull the lever fully out and tie it off with a piece of wire.  Then you know it is open.

 

The other actuator makes no difference to how it cools or where the cold air comes out.

 

It is easy to overfill the system and then it does not cool well.

 

Post the latest high- and low-side pressures, with outside air temperature and the discharge temperature inside in the center vent.  You must be using the numbers (pressures at temperatures, etc.) in the shop manual.

 

 

[Turbinator]

5 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

You can disconnect the vacuum actuator on the firewall and pull the lever fully out and tie it off with a piece of wire.  Then you know it is open.

 

The other actuator makes no difference to how it cools or where the cold air comes out.

 

It is easy to overfill the system and then it does not cool well.

 

Post the latest high- and low-side pressures, with outside air temperature and the discharge temperature inside in the center vent.  You must be using the numbers (pressures at temperatures, etc.) in the shop manual.

 

 

Jim, your direction is invaluable. Later this morning I’ll check the tied actuator with the wire you suggested. I’ve been manually pushing and pulling on the “ top” actuator. I noticed not much movement in distance of the actuator arm in past efforts. The wire tie off will help.

im suppose to return to the shop Monday with the Service Manual the shop owner requested.

Thank you again for your very fine assistance and I appreciate you following the thread.

 

RRB

[Turbinator]

10 hours ago, Jim Cannon said:

You can disconnect the vacuum actuator on the firewall and pull the lever fully out and tie it off with a piece of wire.  Then you know it is open.

 

The other actuator makes no difference to how it cools or where the cold air comes out.

 

It is easy to overfill the system and then it does not cool well.

 

Post the latest high- and low-side pressures, with outside air temperature and the discharge temperature inside in the center vent.  You must be using the numbers (pressures at temperatures, etc.) in the shop manual.

 

 

Jim, this morning I pushed the lever on the vacuum acuator all the way in- manually. I got plenty of heat on the drivers side by my right leg and plenty heat coming out for the rear. 

Next, I pulled the lever on the firewall all the way forward. I tied the  pulled forward lever with a wire . I got AC air at 80 degrees with ambient temp 80 degrees from the center vent. The two side vents were shut.

im more than happy to buy at set of gauges to measure pressures. I’m not sure it is realistic I buy a recovery machine and scale for the R12. At this stage my budget allows for proper tools and supplies to fix this AC.

thank you

RRB

[Jim Cannon]

Bob-

Open all the vents for testing and push both A/C knobs all the way in for maximum cooling..

 

80 degree air means no cooling at all.  Something is not working (compressor problem, expansion valve problem, STV problem).  A good technician can diagnose the problem quickly, especially with the shop manual to refer to.  That shop manual is very detailed in what to measure, where, when.

 

You should not buy a recovery machine.

 

You can injure yourself if you hook up pressure gauges incorrectly.  I don't recommend it.  I understand the frustration of having to work through the shop.

 

Perhaps look around for another shop that is comfortable working on old cars.  I'm not very impressed with the results from the guy you have been using.  This system should be blowing very cold air by now.  It's not rocket science.

 

 

[Turbinator]

Jim, I’ve moved around to several shops with efforts to get the AC FIXED. Of course, none of the shops have produced cold air in the cabin.

The most recent shop, this past Thursday. The shop owner added R12. The shop owner said bring the service manual this Monday. It’s not rocket science where you are, in Maryland most everything is rocket science.??

I’ll give this shop one more try. The owner did not charge a dime for adding the R12 and efforts for diagnostics. The owner needs more time to do the job right. I’ll try once more, BUT I’m looking for another shop.

Thanks again,

Bob Burnopp aka Red Riviera Bob

[1965rivgs]

Bob,

  You stated upon adding a "full" charge of R12 the shop owner was satisfied with the pressures? That would indicate to me, assuming he knows what he is doing, that the regrigeration system is functioning properly. If so, you can feel the low side return hose to the compressor and it should feel cold relative to ambient temp. So as you stated above, it seems you have an air control issue...

  If you have blower volume coming out of the AC vents and the refigeration system is functioning there should be some evidence of conditioned air. Your stated temps indicate otherwise?

  Not necessarily on first gen cars but I have experienced many times on other models an ineffective AC system due to the heater core adding back heated air to the air stream rendering the outlet temp at the register to seem unconditioned. This is very easy to troubleshoot. Simply put the AC on just after starting the car when the coolant temp is cold, ie, engine not "warmed up". If air flow past the heater core is cancelling out otherwise conditioned air via the evap core then the AC will blow cold until engine temp comes up.

  Wow, a shop that charges R12 at no expense? Dont think I`d ever leave that vendor...or ever do another job at all! Sounds like the arrangement my family has in Tom`s Toyhouse!

Tom Mooney

[telriv]

Bob & I discussed this by blocking BOTH heater hoses so coolant could NOT flow through the core & he said it made NO diff. I still believe it's an air door problem most likely.

 

Tom T.

[Turbinator]

1 hour ago, telriv said:

Bob & I discussed this by blocking BOTH heater hoses so coolant could NOT flow through the core & he said it made NO diff. I still believe it's an air door problem most likely.

 

Tom T.

Tom T. I held the door open by putting a wire hook in the flat metal piece that opens and closes the door. I tied the wire off to hold the door open. No change in temp from air coming from vents and ambient temp.

Red Riviera Bob

[Turbinator]

2 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

Bob,

  You stated upon adding a "full" charge of R12 the shop owner was satisfied with the pressures? That would indicate to me, assuming he knows what he is doing, that the regrigeration system is functioning properly. If so, you can feel the low side return hose to the compressor and it should feel cold relative to ambient temp. So as you stated above, it seems you have an air control issue...

  If you have blower volume coming out of the AC vents and the refigeration system is functioning there should be some evidence of conditioned air. Your stated temps indicate otherwise?

  Not necessarily on first gen cars but I have experienced many times on other models an ineffective AC system due to the heater core adding back heated air to the air stream rendering the outlet temp at the register to seem unconditioned. This is very easy to troubleshoot. Simply put the AC on just after starting the car when the coolant temp is cold, ie, engine not "warmed up". If air flow past the heater core is cancelling out otherwise conditioned air via the evap core then the AC will blow cold until engine temp comes up.

  Wow, a shop that charges R12 at no expense? Dont think I`d ever leave that vendor...or ever do another job at all! Sounds like the arrangement my family has in Tom`s Toyhouse!

Tom Mooney

Tom, I started the Riv after the engine cooled for 3 hours in the shade. Immediately I put on the AC when I started the car.. my car ac temp thermometer read 100 degrees when I started the AC. I timed 10 minutes later with AC on full the car ac thermometer read 78 degrees. Ambient temp 80 degrees 5:30 pm est day light savings time. 

 

Tom, the shop owner trusted I would come back with the Buick  service manual in efforts to get the ac fixed. Once we get it fixed Im sure he’ll remember time and materials for the first visit. 

We are two old men who trust one another. 

Red Riviera Bob

[KongaMan]

As noted earlier, there should be evidence of a functioning cooling system (cold return hose, cold evaporator).  If you don't have a cold hose, you have a systemic problem.  If the hose is cold, make sure air is blowing across the evaporator.  I know you pulled the diaphragm rod, but do you know for a fact that the door moved or there's not something like leaves or a mouse nest in your air box?

 

You might end up pulling the blower box.  Brush up on your profanity first.

[Turbinator]

3 hours ago, KongaMan said:

As noted earlier, there should be evidence of a functioning cooling system (cold return hose, cold evaporator).  If you don't have a cold hose, you have a systemic problem.  If the hose is cold, make sure air is blowing across the evaporator.  I know you pulled the diaphragm rod, but do you know for a fact that the door moved or there's not something like leaves or a mouse nest in your air box?

 

You might end up pulling the blower box.  Brush up on your profanity first.

Yes Sir, pulled blower, then removed heater box to replace the #4 and #3 single diaphram vacuums. Checked spring and door movement were fine. No debris at all.

yes, fasteners under the heater box were real hard to remove. Real hard to remove. Put in single vacuum diaphram with 2 ports Td to one vacuum hose ( yellow ).

RRB

[Turbinator]

Gents, I started the car engine and put the AC on full at idle. I felt the bottom of the STV and the fitting just below the STV was cold.

A piece of info you don’t have, or it’s been so long the info has been forgotten. 

 

I had the HVAC panel removed so a bell arm could be made to replace a broken bell arm. I would guess the gent that put the HVAC panel back may have missed the cables being adjusted. However; Jim Cannon suggested I try tying off the vacuum actuator tab on the firewall that is connected to the door in the heater box. I tied off the heater box door piece in both directions and had no luck with the air temp changing.

 

The expansion valve could be faulty? 

[Turbinator]

Gents, the Radiator AC specialty shop in Baltimore City. Put in some R12 and said I still did not have cold air. I agreed. No charge for the diagnostics ( none) and R12.  

The next shop I hunted down is in York PA 50 miles north of where I live. I’m again hopeful some shop somewhere can get cold air in the cabin. Trust me I’ll get cold air one way or the other.

Red Riviera Bob

Another 45 days I won’t need AC.