Wheelmang Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 (edited) I am going to use a lot of new studs nuts and bolts on my 26 DB. The intent is replace everything removed, with new, at reassembly. The problem I am running into is the big box house hold stores have product of very suspect quality and auto parts stores have little to no inventory and that is suspect. I really do not require grade eight, with the possible exception of head studs, but I would like to find stock that doesn't need a die run over the threads, (from shipping and banging around in the bins,) before being used. Does anyone have a source with quality products? Or am I being too picky? Thanks Paul Edited July 15, 2018 by Wheelmang word edit (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Have you tried McMaster Carr? I've always had good luck with their products, and where I am order by 4pm and it's delivered the next morning UPS. I've bought lots of nuts and bolts from them and no issues. The only problem you'll have is that the bolts will have markings on the heads, the original bolts on your DB probably had no markings. A little thing, but you'd be surprised at the number of people who notice it.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFranklin Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 NAPA stores should be able to supply these items. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted July 15, 2018 Author Share Posted July 15, 2018 Thanks David. That looks exactly like what I am looking for. Thanks JFranklin. I have tried a couple of the local parts stores but not NAPA. I will give them a try to see if they are any different from what I have seen so far. The McMaster Carr site looks like I can get boxes for only slightly more $ than what I have seen for 6 - 8 bolts so far at auto parts places and the quality at the local parts houses is extremely suspect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 Agree with David, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13CADDY Posted July 15, 2018 Share Posted July 15, 2018 I had good luck with the caterpillar dealer--when I had the salvage yard I was always needing 1 or 2 of something--if it wasn't in stock, they had it the next day--I also agree with David---Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 16 hours ago, trimacar said: Have you tried McMaster Carr? I've always had good luck with their products, and where I am order by 4pm and it's delivered the next morning UPS. I've bought lots of nuts and bolts from them and no issues. The only problem you'll have is that the bolts will have markings on the heads, the original bolts on your DB probably had no markings. A little thing, but you'd be surprised at the number of people who notice it.... In addition to the modern markings on the heads modern bolts They are low hex. Compare a modern bolt to an original and it is very noticeable. I buy Hi-hex grade 9 bolts from Fastenal. Remove the coating with acid, then remove the marking on the head. Maybe your original bolts have no marking on the head. I parkerize the bolts to match the original finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 2 hours ago, Curti said: They are low hex. Good point. The heavy hex are what was used originally on a lot of early cars, thicker bolt heads and nuts as mentioned. Not sure what was being used by 1926 or so.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 The 31-36 Auburns used the high hex bolts , the nuts were the same as modern, except in some particular applications, where the wrench size would have been one size up. This was true with larger sized bolts and nuts, 3/8 and up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 Thanks all for the great feedback. After reading a couple of the post I decided to take a closer look at some of the bolts. After some degreasing and wire wheel every one I looked at had a DB head marking. Sorry about the fuzzy picture. Guess I was too close for my cell phone. The concern is have they been torqued up too many times to maintain torque anymore. I also assume that bolts with the DB marking are not readily available or affordable. My past work history with an OEM manufacturer says "never" reuse a bolt. However, contrary to that, I was involved in engineering testing that provided empirical data that bolts that are not over torqued should be good for at least 2 - 3 uses. That begs the question, how many times would things like transmission, oil pan, engine mounting etc. be removed and reinstalled in the last 90+ years? All head studs, main bearing studs will be replaced no question. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 I can understand concern about reuse of rod and head bolts. Just about every other bolt on the car, including mains, are not subject to exceptional stresses and could be reused. Am working on a Packard engine now, machinist says he'll test rod bolts to see if they torque consistently, and we'll reuse if acceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 New head bolts have been reproduced for Auburns they are hi-hex GR8 . Black oxide is original and correct, but some people prefer cadmium. If it is internal to the engine, use as much modern material as possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 16 hours ago, trimacar said: Am working on a Packard engine now, machinist says he'll test rod bolts to see if they torque consistently, and we'll reuse if acceptable. Curious as to the process your machinist is using for testing. The equipment that I was involved in probably cost more than the GDP of a small country. ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 3 hours ago, Wheelmang said: Curious as to the process your machinist is using for testing. The equipment that I was involved in probably cost more than the GDP of a small country. ? I can ask him his testing method, he has a fully equipped machine shop and works on race cars, so he's not guessing! He also told me that, even though rod bolts are castle nuts, torque them and do not put in cotter pin, as it's not needed. This particular individual is far beyond just a master mechanic, in addition to race cars he's also a well-respected Porsche engine rebuilder. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted July 17, 2018 Author Share Posted July 17, 2018 1 hour ago, trimacar said: I can ask him his testing method, he has a fully equipped machine shop and works on race cars, so he's not guessing! Thanks David. No need for that. It sounds like a really great shop. I was just surprised that there was a non - OEM process for this kind of testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted July 17, 2018 Share Posted July 17, 2018 No problem. I'm not sure there is an OEM torque spec for 1938 Packard, maybe there is. Packard rod bolts were special, oddball diameter and special heads to fit rods. Castle nut with cotter pin can cover a lot of sins.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wascator Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 Restoration Supply have a stock of tall-head bolts. Fastenal dealers have some imported bolts but they are quality and they stand behind their stuff. Look for quality fasteners at industrial and heavy equipment dealers. Hope this helps. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArticiferTom Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 The large nuts used on DB later heads were called High Heavy Hex , taller and 1 step up wrench size . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now