Sactownog

1933 Dodge DP Six Transmission Mount pictures

Recommended Posts

well, these are my Transmission Mounts that are on my 33 Dodge, I plan to take them off and have them REVOLCONIZED, any tips on this before I start taking them off and sending them out? 

20180711_185336.jpg

20180711_185430.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s are definately different than the mount on my 32 DL.  I’m having trouble figuring out the orientation from your photographs.  Any chance we could get a wider view with trans visible.  On my car, I had the motor and transmission out, so removing them was no problem.  I know with my car, you absolutely have to support the rear of the motor if you remove the rear mount with the motor in places.  Have you checked with The And Now to make sure they can revulcanize your mounts.  If your rear mount is mush, I would check the other mounts for condition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Based on this photo, captioned "1933 Dodge Silent Helical Transmission", it appears you have two changes (at least) from 1932.

image.png.11c1c9ae33fe09e4db60ac0cbc747da2.png

 

1. Silent gears. 1932 probably had straight cut 1st and possibly 2nd gear. Much quieter in your car.

2. The rear mount is simpler and at the bottom of the gearbox.

 

I can't see which way is up in your photos - I hope up is as photographed so the rubber is under compression.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Source Vendor

Tom Hannaford 

Then and Now Automotive 

447 Washington Street 

Weymouth , Mass. 02188

781-335-8860 

8:00a - 5:00p. EST    Mon- Fri 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Boy, that transmission bears no resemblance to my 32 gear box.  Totally different set-up.  The free wheeling extension on my unit is the big difference - that’s where my rubber mount attaches.  No free wheeling on the 33 that I can see - actually, I take that back.  That may be a free wheeling device on the rear, behind the gears.  Anyway, it’s nothing like the 32.  The 33 mount is much easier to get to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, that drum on the back is the freewheeling unit, housed in the same box rather than a separate one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks identical to the transmission in my '33 Plymouth PD. Been a long time, but I think I had my engine mounts revulcanized by Tom Hannaford at Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a. Then and Now Automotive).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/12/2018 at 12:19 PM, Sactownog said:

well, these are my Transmission Mounts that are on my 33 Dodge, I plan to take them off and have them REVOLCONIZED, any tips on this before I start taking them off and sending them out?

 

Make sure you mark the brackets as the R&L are different.

Note that the lower steel portion of the front of the mount (where the bracket fastens)  is shorter than the back so that the bracket does not bottom out on the mount. Part #600603 fits 1933-34 Dodge 6, Plymouth and 1934 Chrysler CA-CB

 

There is a steady rest pad #389156 under the bell housing that is the same 1932-34 Dodge 6, 1933 Plymouth PD, 1934 Plymouth PE-PF-PG and 1934 Chrysler CA-CB. This is a rubber block vulcanized to a strip of steel and it needs to be sent into to Tom along with the front mount at the water pump.

 

The front mount #600834 fits 1933 Dodge 6 and Plymouth. It contains two pieces of curved steel and both need to be sent in. The lower half is riveted to the front support and must be removed.

 

I originally developed this tooling from original NOS samples. The molds were built by Guhl Machine of Huntington, Indiana. I sold all the tooling, molds and fixtures to Tom Hannaford at Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a. Then and Now Automotive) who has proudly carried on the tradition of Floating Power Motor Mount Service since approx 1986-87.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, dep5 said:

 

Make sure you mark the brackets as the R&L are different.

Note that the lower steel portion of the front of the mount (where the bracket fastens)  is shorter than the back so that the bracket does not bottom out on the mount. Part #600603 fits 1933-34 Dodge 6, Plymouth and 1934 Chrysler CA-CB

 

There is a steady rest pad #389156 under the bell housing that is the same 1932-34 Dodge 6, 1933 Plymouth PD, 1934 Plymouth PE-PF-PG and 1934 Chrysler CA-CB. This is a rubber block vulcanized to a strip of steel and it needs to be sent into to Tom along with the front mount at the water pump.

 

The front mount #600834 fits 1933 Dodge 6 and Plymouth. It contains two pieces of curved steel and both need to be sent in. The lower half is riveted to the front support and must be removed.

 

I originally developed this tooling from original NOS samples. The molds were built by Guhl Machine of Huntington, Indiana. I sold all the tooling, molds and fixtures to Tom Hannaford at Antique Auto Parts Cellar (a.k.a. Then and Now Automotive) who has proudly carried on the tradition of Floating Power Motor Mount Service since approx 1986-87.

On 7/12/2018 at 4:54 PM, 42319DB34 said:

really wish there was a way "I" could re vulcanize these on my own. never done this before, but It cant be that hard of a process. I could be wrong, but would be nice to do it on my own.

 

I also was thinking of fabricating up some urethane bushings. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 minutes ago, Sactownog said:

really wish there was a way "I" could re vulcanize these on my own. never done this before, but It cant be that hard of a process. I could be wrong, but would be nice to do it on my own. I also was thinking of fabricating up some urethane bushings. 

 

Seriously? My first reaction is that I wasted my time trying to help you; but then I realize that there are those whom it might help.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Vulcanizing is a controlled heat process done in custom molds.  Urethane is not going to bond to the metal of the mount sufficiently and will pull loose.  By the time you make the molds and buy the materials, I think you will find Tom’s service a real bargain.  And your mounts will work as originally designed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now