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Can anyone help a fella out ? I have two rubber tubes on the vacuum storage tank ,one goes through the firewall but I have no clue where the larger barb fitting routes to. Any help is as always greatly appreciated .

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I have just finished rebuilding my Dual Quads on my 65GS that I am restoring and would like to confirm the vacuum connections.

Have looked in the manual, can't find related connection schematic.

  • Cruise Control vacuum line connects to the rear of the fire wall Carb.
  • Vacuum tank line connects to the intake manifold fitting which is located adjacent to the kick down switch.
  • Distributor vacuum is taken from the front of the fire wall Carb.

Would like to confirm connections as per factory build as I have seen many different combinations.

Cheers

TomK

 

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2 hours ago, TKRIV said:

I have just finished rebuilding my Dual Quads on my 65GS that I am restoring and would like to confirm the vacuum connections.

Have looked in the manual, can't find related connection schematic.

 

I think you have to piece it together from the various components.  For example, look at the cruise diagrams to see where it hooks up, look at the brakes to see where the booster hooks up, etc.

 

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4 hours ago, TKRIV said:

I have just finished rebuilding my Dual Quads on my 65GS that I am restoring and would like to confirm the vacuum connections.

Have looked in the manual, can't find related connection schematic.

  • Cruise Control vacuum line connects to the rear of the fire wall Carb.
  • Vacuum tank line connects to the intake manifold fitting which is located adjacent to the kick down switch.
  • Distributor vacuum is taken from the front of the fire wall Carb.

Would like to confirm connections as per factory build as I have seen many different combinations.

Cheers

TomK

 

This is correct

Tom

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6 hours ago, TKRIV said:

Thank You Tom M

 

Tom, check the shop manual in the CRUISE accessory section for a diagram illustrating both the dual 4 barrel and single 4 barrel vacuum connections.

Tom

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Interesting topic. My brakes were gradually getting worse as in a hard pedal. (disc brakes on the front) All worked well for years then this issue. Tried different pads etc etc. Finally had a custom booster made (meant for disc brakes) so it would bolt right in and installed. Brakes a great again.

For the hell of it, after I removed the check valve from the old booster. To my surprise the valve was full of engine oil. I have dual quads and as you know there is a T-piece behind the front carbie - one side comes from the PCV valve and the other goes to the booster. It's seems oil fumes turn into oil and trickled down the vac line into the booster check valve.

So I don't believe there was anything wrong with the original booster, just this oil stopping the valve from checking.

To avoid this happening again I have block the left side of the T-piece and now getting booster vacuum from the main port on the rear of the main carbie. I made a new hard line as shown in the picture. My cruise control is coming from the small nipple on the manifold, close to the kick down switch and works fine. I have put a T into the line that goes from carbie to the distributor which feeds the Vac Tank.

Has anyone ever had the same issue?

 

 

IMG-5693_med.JPG

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Great help on how to connect the vacuum tank. My understanding is  one port on the vacuum tank is connected after the check valve on the manifold intake. My assumption is the the remaining port on the vacuum tank would go to the # 1 vacuum switch. The remaining vacuum lines are routed per service manual.

thank you

RRB

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The '64 vacuum tank is not like the canister on the 63's.  It's a small plastic item that sits on the passenger's side inner panel and connects via a port on the back of the intake.  The monster tank on a '63 sits on the driver's side inner fender and shares vacuum coming to the power brake system and the a/c - hvac system.  

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On 7/13/2018 at 3:25 AM, fatbuick said:

Interesting topic. My brakes were gradually getting worse as in a hard pedal. (disc brakes on the front) All worked well for years then this issue. Tried different pads etc etc. Finally had a custom booster made (meant for disc brakes) so it would bolt right in and installed. Brakes a great again.

For the hell of it, after I removed the check valve from the old booster. To my surprise the valve was full of engine oil. I have dual quads and as you know there is a T-piece behind the front carbie - one side comes from the PCV valve and the other goes to the booster. It's seems oil fumes turn into oil and trickled down the vac line into the booster check valve.

So I don't believe there was anything wrong with the original booster, just this oil stopping the valve from checking.

To avoid this happening again I have block the left side of the T-piece and now getting booster vacuum from the main port on the rear of the main carbie. I made a new hard line as shown in the picture. My cruise control is coming from the small nipple on the manifold, close to the kick down switch and works fine. I have put a T into the line that goes from carbie to the distributor which feeds the Vac Tank.

Has anyone ever had the same issue?

 

 

IMG-5693_med.JPG

Tony,

 Do you have the metal baffle under the valve cover and below the PCV port on the valve cover? Maybe you have excessive "blowby"? Is your engine sending smoke signals out of the valve cover if you pull the PCV valve out while running?

Tom

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No baffles at all.

I didn't think the alloy valve covers were supposed to have them.

I'll try it with the PCV valve removed.

It was smelly and oily through the breather/filler cap so I blocked the holes under the cap and put a nipple in it which has a rubber hose going into the air cleaner. Is the cap supposed to suck air in or blow it out? I assumed the latter.

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Tony,

 

I think the baffles to which Tom are referring are the ones that bolt to the tops of the rocker arm shafts.  I could be wrong but...

 

Ed

 

 

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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YES, there should be a rocker arm baffle UNDER the valve cover , under the PCV valve. Without it if the engine is worn & has some miles on it the chances of sucking oil through the PCV valve happen.

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17 hours ago, fatbuick said:

No baffles at all.

I didn't think the alloy valve covers were supposed to have them.

I'll try it with the PCV valve removed.

It was smelly and oily through the breather/filler cap so I blocked the holes under the cap and put a nipple in it which has a rubber hose going into the air cleaner. Is the cap supposed to suck air in or blow it out? I assumed the latter.

Pcv (positive crankcase ventilation) system should be pulling fresh, somewhat filtered air in thru the breather, thru the pcv valve and into the intake manifold in most states of operation. If there is blowby coming OUT of the breather at idle or light engine load, or there are smoke signals puffing out of the valve cover when the breather or pcv valve are removed while the engine is running the rings are most likely worn out.

Tom

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