Bloo Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 I think you would have to reverse either the field connections or the brush connections inside the motor but not both. Are you sure the airflow is wrong? No original motor to try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 This is really the ultimate "you are the only one who will be bugged by this" situation! The heater is not only out of sight, but not anything you are likely to ever need on this car. Even if the car were being judged and you had to show the judges that the heater "worked," the sound of the turning fan would certainly convince them. But can you let it go? Haha -- maybe not. I sympathize. After all you have done with this car, you want to know in your heart that everything works the way it should! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grant Z Posted February 27 Share Posted February 27 17 hours ago, kgreen said: Or it may be that this motor belongs to Grant's car, which is located in the southern hemisphere??? You will have to come down to see for yourself! 😂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 1 hour ago, neil morse said: This is really the ultimate "you are the only one who will be bugged by this" situation! The heater is not only out of sight, but not anything you are likely to ever need on this car. Even if the car were being judged and you had to show the judges that the heater "worked," the sound of the turning fan would certainly convince them. But can you let it go? Haha -- maybe not. I sympathize. After all you have done with this car, you want to know in your heart that everything works the way it should! Hit me, please hit me! 1 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 On 2/27/2024 at 12:50 PM, Bloo said: I think you would have to reverse either the field connections or the brush connections inside the motor but not both. Are you sure the airflow is wrong? No original motor to try? I have two wires one positive the other negative. Reversing the wires dis not change the direction of rotation. I took the motor apart to see if there was any possible way to make a change and after multiple internet searches, I did not find any useable information. Interesting motor feature when I disassembled the motor though. The rotor and the field sizes were different. The external appearance of the motor was the same and was ordered from a Chevy parts dealer. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted March 5 Author Share Posted March 5 Would switching the connections at the brushes do anything? Logic tells me no. I'm going to swap this motor out if there are no options. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 (edited) Can you reverse just the brush connections, without reversing the position of the field or brushholders? That should do it. Edited March 5 by Bloo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 5 Share Posted March 5 I remember a comment about a Buick V6 installed in a boat, indicating the engine turned in the opposite direction of the automobile version. Not sure if that would be the same for an engine in your vintage. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 3 hours ago, Bloo said: Can you reverse jus t the brush connections, without reversing the position of the field or brushholders? That should do it. Do I understand you correctly that if the field wires were rerouted to their respective brush which was located on the opposite side of the field, then I can change rotor direction? Not sure if CW or CCW are correct in the diagram below, but confirming my understanding of your instruction: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said: I remember a comment about a Buick V6 installed in a boat, indicating the engine turned in the opposite direction of the automobile version. Not sure if that would be the same for an engine in your vintage. If I was unclear, I meant the heater motor. I believe my engine turns in the proper rotation 'cause three reverse speeds would not be useful. John, thanks for reading my questions and responding though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 These motors are available on eBay. How about this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/144945665926?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=144945665926&targetid=2260112199759&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031948&poi=&campaignid=20809489146&mkgroupid=157571175313&rlsatarget=pla-2260112199759&abcId=9346918&merchantid=8205884&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAopuvBhBCEiwAm8jaMc15vYNkUc7Ovgd7uYm38ERwWNqg4nlmjoxahr7OmIkNkE1UCEQRSxoCsbgQAvD_BwE Here's a photo of the box showing that the rotation is CCW and that it's correct for a '40 Buick: 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 12 minutes ago, kgreen said: If I was unclear, I meant the heater motor. I believe my engine turns in the proper rotation 'cause three reverse speeds would not be useful. John, thanks for reading my questions and responding though! Sorry. I made an incorrect assumption that you were referring to the starter. Totally my mistake. Carry on! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloo Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 2 hours ago, kgreen said: Do I understand you correctly that if the field wires were rerouted to their respective brush which was located on the opposite side of the field, then I can change rotor direction? Not sure if CW or CCW are correct in the diagram below, but confirming my understanding of your instruction: I believe that would do it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sebastienbuick Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 I may be making a mistake, but if you turn the propeller in the other direction, does the rotation change ? (the propeller sucks on one side and blows on the other) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted March 6 Author Share Posted March 6 1 hour ago, sebastienbuick said: I may be making a mistake, but if you turn the propeller in the other direction, does the rotation change ? (the propeller sucks on one side and blows on the other) No, good guess as I had that idea as well. I think Bloo nailed it. It makes sense of what I've read as well. Nice to have Bloo's confirmation though. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted March 9 Author Share Posted March 9 Finished installing the pretty stuff, now the car needs to be functional. Valves took forever to adjust, noisy as all get out until I could warm the engine and run in all the brand new machining. I used an old valve cover since I took it off and put it back on a number times figuring I would damage paint somewhere. Timing adjustment; darn I put the flywheel on without regard to the timing marks like I did with my covid series 50 "let's get this beast running" project. I was off a tooth this way and that way. It's now dialed in. I think my carb float level is too high, gas came out of a hole up near the fuel feed on a couple occaisions. Choke was out of adjustment, think it's good now. The vacuum starter switch was sticking. It is an NOS unit. The plunger appears to stick periodically. I took it off the carb and cleaned it with electronics cleaner. Not supposed to use oils as they will attract dust and gum up the works. The engine runs good and start fairly well, it has a minor skip. I've checked all the plug gaps again and the points setting. Maybe the engine needs to run a bit. I'll say that 320 cubic inches exhausting out of the straight through muffler sounds quite nice. The glove box light is still intermittent, can't pick up any AM radio stations inside the garage to test the radio. I'm getting killed on the details. So far several weekends were dedicated to adjustment and frustration. Good news, Bloo's guidance on the heater motor was spot on. My heater runs properly - thanks Bloo! 8 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
195354 Posted March 10 Share Posted March 10 The details can be a time suck you are making progress. When you stand back you can’t see it very easily in your eyes. You are taking care of the details that take time. I looked back to the first page you have had quite a vision on day one. You have built a beautiful car. I had a dome light in a convertible that worked about 20 precent of the time. New harness and everything in the top frame repaired and looking good. I figured it out but it was a time eating project. Crossing the finish line can be exhausting Steve 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 You truly have come a long way on the project and in a Good Way it's nice that the small things are what needs to be attended to since the big stuff is done! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 The engine is running, though I think it could do better. Valve adjustment seems to have been a finicky sport on this engine. I appear to have a severe vacuum leak in the convertible top system; somewhere. I've disconnected the vacuum to the convertible top for this run. All fluids have been added, leak check for all fluids multiple times, all seems good. I'll set it back on its tires next and actually try to drive it. A little bit. But I'm not done. No, I'll wait. Face it, I need to learn all the bad news now. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neil morse Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 Ken, congratulations on reaching this milestone! What a great sound. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted April 3 Author Share Posted April 3 (edited) This weekend is dedicated to searching for vacuum leaks in the pneumatic convertible top system, modifying the floor plate at the brake/clutch pedal and reinstalling all the cylinder locks that Frank Duval rekeyed for me. Thanks Frank! The convertible top takes a large vacuum line off the manifold. When I removed the connection on this line to take vacuum measurements, the engine performance improved dramatically: Leaks abound. I'll access the pneumatic cylinders and fill each with a little neatsfoot oil, not "prime" neatsfoot oil as that is a mix of other oils that could foul or bind the seals. The floor plate at the clutch and brake pedal is incorrect in that the plate has 5-inches center to center for the brake and clutch while my car has 5 1/2-inches ctr to ctr. I'll cut the panel and relocate the hole. Odd, I've asked others about this but all my linkage lines up straight. While I'm here, I'll share a "before" photo of the car. the initial car that I bought was missing numerous parts and had a 1941 engine. I was fortunate to find another of these fairly scarce vehicles so I chopped up the red primer and gray primer cars yielding one primary car. The chassis provided the later model year production engine, transmission and 3.6 rear end. The coupe was a gift when I bought the grey convertible. It provided a good number of detail parts such as clips, engine pans, extra carb, gages and some chassis parts. The coupe was ultimately sold. All other cars have been reduced to a pile of worthless parts. None of the cars had the correct 15-inch wheels, fortunately a donor car in Los Angeles provided them. Edited April 3 by kgreen spelling of course (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted April 8 Author Share Posted April 8 (edited) Still a lot of work to do and many issues to be sorted yet, trial run because I couldn't wait to drive it. My retread Montgomery Ward tires are possibly 30-50 years old. Strictly rollers, and I'll have new tires by the time the car comes back from upholstery. Edited April 11 by kgreen (see edit history) 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 Awesome, Ken! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 8 Share Posted April 8 1 hour ago, kgreen said: Still a lot of work to do and many issues to be sorted yet, trial run because I couldn't wait to drive it. My retread Montgomery Ward tires are possibly 30-50 years old. Strictly rollers, and I'll have new tires by the time the car comes back from upholstery. Awesome! In the end did you try the hill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted April 8 Author Share Posted April 8 31 minutes ago, NC-car-guy said: Awesome! In the end did you try the hill? Yes, I did. The engine had no problem with the hill but the very old (way too old) Montgomery Ward tires spun; left several thousand miles worth of rubber on the concrete. They are pretty slick since they have hardened. I'll get new tires this summer while Mr. Pruitt gets the interior and top installed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kgreen Posted April 8 Author Share Posted April 8 It took me an afternoon to clean up the seat frame and track. Seems that the the seat pivot point in the center of the seat commonly breaks. I have a list of things to start correcting including the brakes as the junction block is leaking. Still not keen on the engine operation, idling high and it has not smoothed out. Need to clean up and paint the air cleaner. Windshield wipers work great, I didn't realize that they are a single speed wiper. Oil spatter on the windshield got spread out nicely. Still have the trunk wood to finish as well. One of the parts cars had the wood for a pattern, but physical damage from drywood termites while the car was in South Florida converted much of the interior of the wood into dust. I finished the heater, but the defroster still needs cleaning and painting. Other than the junction block for the brakes, I don't see any other leaks worth fussing over. I have body color wheels with the pin stripes already painted. The wheel shields are safely tucked away for later. I'll get white wall tires as they were standard issue on this model car. Here's the dirty mechanics wave and the wife who has yet to learn how much she spent on this car. 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machine Gun Posted April 9 Share Posted April 9 18 hours ago, kgreen said: Here's the dirty mechanics wave and the wife who has yet to learn how much she spent on this car. Are you going to post an "after" picture of the wife when you break the news to her? 1 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now