Reatta Maintenance Issues-Fuel Leak, Trunk Lock

[Frazer 49]

I have an active fuel leak from the area under the driver, toward the engine.  Not horrible but any gas leak needs attention.  Question:  If it's the fuel rail (fuel lines) where can I get a replacement for these?  Are they not available through a dealer or Rock Auto?  I did not see them on Rock Auto but they be named something else. 

 

I had a constant battery drain that was the power trunk release in the trunk. I swapped out a known good one, and the constant clicking stopped for a bit, came back and drained the battery. So, short term, I disconnected the power trunk release. Now, of course, I have no access to the trunk.  But the battery stays charged.  Now I am starting to hear the power door locks engage on and off.    Does anyone have any direction on repair?  I have a 1990 Reatta Service Manual but it appears I need a body manual, no wiring diagrams. 

 

Thanks for your help. 

[Ronnie]

7 minutes ago, Frazer 49 said:

I have an active fuel leak from the area under the driver, toward the engine. 

 

That is the area where the fuel filter is located. Have you checked it for a leak?

[Frazer 49]

No, but that is good news since I am sure there are fuel filters available.  Thanks. 

[harry yarnell]

Can't remember if the '90 (assuming you have a '90) have plastic fuel lines or steel. Lawn rats love these plastic lines (along with wiring harnesses). Rust takes out the steel ones. Either way, splice kits are available for the plastic and a fabiricated splice of steel for the steel line is the repair of choice.

[DAVES89]

If the leak is in front of the driver's door it could be the fuel filter. Or the leak could be a fuel line that has gone bad.

 Regarding the trunk and door switches engaging I would check the splices under the carpet in front of the passenger seat. They are only crimped and the connections could be bad. 

Edited June 22, 2018 by DAVES89 (see edit history)

[2seater]

The fuel lines on the '90 are plastic, so rust is unlikely, but the fuel filter is steel. I agree with Dave on checking the splices under the seats. I had a couple issues which weren't auto activation but more like non-operation, and when I repaired them, I found things worked that I hadn't even noticed were out to lunch, like the courtesy light in the lower drivers door.

[Frazer 49]

Thanks everyone. With nice weather anticipated for this weekend, I will get the car up on jack stands and investigate. 

 

I hope the fuel filter does not have quick disconnect ends that I need a special tool for. 

[harry yarnell]

If they are quick connect (which I think they are), all you need is a pair of long nosed pliers.

[Frazer 49]

There was a small crack-leak in the plastic fuel line right after it starts to turn upward toward the fuel filter.   I had purchased a fuel filter from O'Reillys. I jacked up the car, put down some cardboard and got underneath.

 

I noticed it was dry up by the fuel filter and traced the gas to a spot further down, small drop of gas suspended on the rail.  Based on that, I took the plunge and cut off a section about 5 inches long, a section without a curve in it , although I purchased rubber fuel line hose, flexible - I did not want the end that had to be clamped to be in a curve section. 

 

I went back to O-Reillys with the section I had cut off (very important for you that don't know why).   OReillys found the right size based off the removed splice.  It was 50 psi rated rubber fuel line.  I purchased 2 feet in case I was wrong I had more hose (plus you never know - now I have additional hose).

 

I installed the rubber line and pushed as much as possible to get the plastic in.  I always like a bead but that is not possible with this kind of repair.  The hose clamps were standard issue worm clamps, so adequate pressure was exerted on the ends, but not so much that rubber was working through the clamp.

 

I started the car and it was obvious right away that the repair worked and was the "root" cause of the issue. I will install the filter later. It did not look hard, but Saturday time is golden around here and I had other pressing needs.  The filter is easy to get at in my opinion, but is connected by quick disconnects, new ones come with the filter.  My issue was more the bracket holding it to the frame.  I did not want to try and figure that out, and which tools I would need. 

 

Thanks to all on this advice.  I will tackle the trunk lock deal soon as well, since I do not have  trunk at the moment.

[Barney Eaton]

There are a few known problems with the trunk lock.

(1) bad ground......the factory relied on ground connection via the trunk hinge and sometimes that does not work........that does not seem to be your problem.

(2) metal disk in the solenoid fall out and solenoid will not work.....usually find the disk (about the size of a nickel) in the trunk and it can be reinstalled......again not your problem.

(3) moisture/water in the electrical switch behind the lock.    This causes the symptoms you have and you must remove the lock, clean the switch and seal it.

 

The rear lock is about a 1/2 hour job to remove........the rear tail lamp must be removed for access to two screws that hold the switch mounting bracket.

the lower black plastic (under the bumper must be partially unscrewed for access for your hands to disconnect to electrical connection at the switch.

 

I have attached a sketch of the rear lock......the switch is on the back of the lock.

[Frazer 49]

Thanks. I will work on both possible areas. I have already installed a new power trunk release from my Reatta parts car and that did not work. I will remove the lock assembly. And install next 

 

But now more pressing issues.  The harmonic balancer needs replaced. Will take that off the parts car too. Fun.  It’s supposed to be 92 degrees on Saturday