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thermostat is there a housing needed on flat 6 engine


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I Got A new thermostat but my manual shows what looks like a Housing my old one was completely gone I removed the Old thermostat and threw it away my new thermostat doesn't seem to fit it has a brass holder I'm not sure how it goes on it's to large to go into the opening so I'm thinking its supposed to go into a holder can anyone help with this I got the thermostat Brass fitting and a rubber gasket but no instructions I know to put the pointed side up but it doesn't fit not sure what I need.

thermostate My 6 cyl..GIF

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What year is your engine? The Chrysler products took different goosenecks. The upper housing or gooseneck has a depression in it to accommodate the thermostat and hold it in the right place on the cylinder head.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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I'm not trying to be a cranky old man,  just trying to educate.  When dealing with repairs to antique/vintage vehicles it is important to have the correct verbage in the question or else you can get led astray.

A flat six would be a Porsche or a Subaru engine.  Also refered to as a pancake engine.

Sure looks like a "flat head" or "L head Chrysler engine as keiser31 said.  You probably have a newer style thermostat.  Original style thermostats are available.

engine type.jpg

pancake.jpg

Edited by Guest (see edit history)
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29 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

What year is your engine? The Chrysler products took different goosenecks. The upper housing or gooseneck has a depression in it to accommodate the thermostat and hold it in the right place on the cylinder head.

 

31 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

What year is your engine? The Chrysler products took different goosenecks. The upper housing or gooseneck has a depression in it to accommodate the thermostat and hold it in the right place on the cylinder head.

my housing looks just like that it a 6 cyl L head I believe

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Looks like you have the wrong thermostat. Sometimes if you get stuff on Ebay, they say it is for a certain car when it isn't. Did you get it from a parts store or Ebay? It should look more like the one in the black and white photo. The flange around the edge has to fit into the groove on the housing.

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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If you have the water distribution tube out you may as well pry out the core  plugs on the left side of the engine. Then you can wash it out good with a pressure washer. Get in with a long air hose or a long wire and poke around. You can get the water jacket very clean this way. You will need a new water tube if you wrecked the old one, and of course new core plugs.

 

There is an old trick for cleaning radiators. Turn it upside down and connect the bottom outlet to the exhaust pipe of a car. Rev the car and the exhaust will blow the rad clean, all the muck comes out the filler hole and upper outlet.

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1 hour ago, Rusty_OToole said:

You need the thermostat that fits into the recess on the neck. It does not have to look like the old one as long as it fits, it should be 180 degrees or, for hot weather use, 160 degrees. These days 180 is fine year round if the rad is in good shape.

thank you I will go to the parts house tomorrow and see if I can get one that's right I got it from the parts house go to another one.

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I'm throwing this issue out to stimulate comment by the flathead MoPaR experts (i'm not one):  On Jeep vehicles originally equipped with the bulkier ether-filled t'stats, when the latter were replaced with the smaller modern style, a copper/brass insert for the neck was offered to take up space and hold the modern t'stat firmly in place.  A MoPaR specialty parts vendor will have these IF the same solution was pursued by Chrysler Corp.

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My Dodge 8 has a modern thermostat. They are available by size and temperature. Mine is a 63 mm diameter; yours might be too. 63 mm = 2.5".

 

The only trouble with it is there is no hole in it so no water gets past when it is closed. I drilled a 2 mm hole in the rim to let a little water through so the air trapped below can get out during filling and to let a little water come through. Otherwise, the air trapped below it does not conduct heat enough for the thermostat to warm up and open.

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3 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

Good idea to drill a small hole to release trapped air, otherwise your thermostat may never open. If you are really clever you will drill a hole and put a cotter pin through it so it can't get plugged up. Some thermostats come this way.

Rusty, good suggestion for most applications; however, if I recall correctly, the MoPar inline flat head engines had a bypass to allow some coolant circulation while the engine was warming up and the thermostat was opening. JWL

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12 hours ago, JWLawrence said:

however, if I recall correctly, the MoPar inline flat head engines had a bypass

Not in a 1930 Dodge Brothers 8 (which is not Mopar, really, too early). I learnt about the lack of circulation when it boiled and spat out coolant but the temperature of the outlet above the thermostat was hardly 40 oC. You are probably right, however, about 1932 onward, maybe even some 1931 models?

 

16 hours ago, Rusty_OToole said:

If you are really clever you will drill a hole and put a cotter pin through it so it can't get plugged up. Some thermostats come this way. 

What a good idea. I think I remember thermostats like that too, in my murky past.

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