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Introducing Myself and Hood Question 55 Buick


M1842

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Hello to all the Forum members!  I have recently gotten back into the car hobby with a 1955 Buick Special 2 door hardtop.  My previous car was a 1951 Chevy Fleetline sedan.  I bought the Buick last year and didn't get much done on it till recently.  Problems when I got it: no lights, no fans, bad smell, hesitation under load, and massive transmission fluid leak.  I've addressed the lights with a new headlight switch, rebuilt the license plate lights, ID'ed broken wires at the brake light switch, sprayed contact cleaner on the dome light switch (but still does not work off of new door switchesI installed).  I put in a new ballast resistor this weekend which made a huge improvement in starting the engine.  Yesterday, I tested the vacuum advance on the distributor and found it would not hold pressure so I ordered a rebuilt unit.  The bad smell was about 10 pounds of mouse nesting material, mouse crap, and mummified mice between the headliner and roof.

 

This week while waiting for parts, I am going to install a new fuel filter and 4" hose on the defroster heater.  Interestingly, after I replaced the ballast resistor the fans for the defroster and heater came back alive.

 

I can't seem to get the hood to fully shut, there doesn't seem to be edge for the latch to lock into, is it possible that the pin could be completely worn out?

 

I have been lurking reading posts that are related to my problems and there is a lot of knowledge and helpful people here.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

1955 Buick1.jpg

1955 Buick.jpg

Edited by M1842
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58 minutes ago, M1842 said:

Hello to all the Forum members!  I have recently gotten back into the car hobby with a 1955 Buick Special 2 door hardtop.  My previous car was a 1951 Chevy Fleetline sedan.  I bought the Buick last year and didn't get much done on it till recently.  Problems when I got it: no lights, no fans, bad smell, hesitation under load, and massive transmission fluid leak.  I've addressed the lights with a new headlight switch, rebuilt the license plate lights, ID'ed broken wires at the brake light switch, sprayed contact cleaner on the dome light switch (but still does not work off of new door switchesI installed).  I put in a new ballast resistor this weekend which made a huge improvement in starting the engine.  Yesterday, I tested the vacuum advance on the distributor and found it would not hold pressure so I ordered a rebuilt unit.  The bad smell was about 10 pounds of mouse nesting material, mouse crap, and mummified mice between the headliner and roof.

 

This week while waiting for parts, I am going to install a new fuel filter and 4" hose on the defroster heater.  Interestingly, after I replaced the ballast resistor the fans for the defroster and heater came back alive.

 

I can't seem to get the hood to fully shut, there doesn't seem to be edge for the latch to lock into, is it possible that the pin could be completely worn out?

 

I have been lurking reading posts that are related to my problems and there is a lot of knowledge and helpful people here.

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

Welcome Mark!  Glad you're completing your punch list.  A couple photos of your latch might help, and of course we all want to see photos of the car!

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Unlikely in the extreme that a correct pin is worn to that extent. Possibly an incorrect pin has been substituted. More likely the cause of the failure to latch is the blade of the latch is bent........bob

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18 hours ago, 1956322 said:

Sounds like you maybe replaced the ballast resistor for the blower motor and not for the ignition.. There's two one for the blower motor and one for the ignition 

So I what does the ignition ballast resistor look like?  Is it a ceramic unit like the blower or is it a resistor wire?

 

Thanks,

 

Mark

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16 hours ago, Bhigdog said:

Unlikely in the extreme that a correct pin is worn to that extent. Possibly an incorrect pin has been substituted. More likely the cause of the failure to latch is the blade of the latch is bent........bob

 

 

I will get some pictures and post so you can see.

 

Mark

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1 hour ago, M1842 said:

 

 

I will get some pictures and post so you can see. 

 

Mark

Very good. If the pin latching groove is worn simply turn it 120 deg to bring a an unworn groove sector into register with the latch blade..................Bob.................

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23 hours ago, 1956322 said:

Sounds like you maybe replaced the ballast resistor for the blower motor and not for the ignition.. There's two one for the blower motor and one for the ignition 

I see that Cadillac used a coil with an integrated ballast resistor in 1955, could this be used on my 55 Buick?  They are being reproduced now and run $49.

 

Mark

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  • 3 months later...

I figured out the best technique to close my hood.  I close the hood to engage the first latch then I open the second latch and press down on the hood so that the pin goes into it's opening.  Then I release the latch for the pin and slowly let the hood back up.  Then the pin will click into place and the hood stays down.  If I press down with the latch closed, it won't engage the pin.  Glad I got that figured out :)

 

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