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One of the blower motors for the factory A/C on one of my 55's was noisy.  There was lots of shaft end play and then I found this when turned over:  3 holes drilled into the housing with a sheet metal screw in one hole.  My guess is that in the past the bearing/bushing was turning in the housing a screw was used to lock in place...the other holes (?) maybe a way to oil it.  I had a spare motor from a parts car and this one will become a parts donor someday.blower.jpg.0d4b40d280b6bb9402e042305154ac39.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Interesting.   I drilled a hole in my defrost blower motor to free up the shaft that time.  I did not add a screw though. 

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Ahrrrgrrrrr #@$%^&* :angry: I hate working on stuff that has been "messed with"!!

The 2 blower motors on a 55 A/C evaporator unit turn in opposite directions with 2 different part numbers; the corresponding fans are 2 different part numbers.  The one shown in the first post has the correct rotation for the passenger side, but the fan is wrong.  I found the correct fan on my spare evaporator unit, but that unit had 2 identical fans (not correct).  Now I have to pull the other fan assembly off the car to see if that is correct or if the fans were switched.

There are no part numbers on the motors or fans.  Luckily I have a loose defroster fan assembly to see "how it works"

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I tested my fans in their housings before installing them, just to be sure I got them right and they would blow the right way...  Different motors, different fans and different housings.

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I had mine apart while back.. Somehow I managed to install the armature assembly 180 off.. Worked fine except it was turning the wrong away.. Removed and rotated the armature another 180.. Prefect

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blower1.jpg.5b36bf88e91451e33c2e4c72f51c98e0.jpg

 

Second motor had a hole drilled at the front (would have been ineffective for oiling...maybe the sheet metal screw fell out) and a copper wire between the halves of the case (seemed to function only to increase end play?).  It was also full of dried up white grease.  Took it apart, cleaned and oiled.  Does not come up to expected speed and gets hotter than the other motor.  Both motors quiet on bench, noisy when installed.  Too hot to work after 10am...tomorrow is in play.

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My blower motor is noisy with the vents closed, but quiet when open. 

 

I've seen these motors at the hardware store, have you considered maybe adapting a modern motor in place of the original?

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24 minutes ago, Beemon said:

I've seen these motors at the hardware store, have you considered maybe adapting a modern motor in place of the original?

For sure.  In this case these motors have been messed with by others and you can't fix stupid or stupid actions.

Looking at Four Seasons 35490 which has the same measurements as the original and can be set up to run CW or CCW.

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Installed two Four Seasons 35490 motors:  perfect!  Summit Racing took all of 1.5 days shipping and the shipping was 1/3 of RockAuto.  I wish I could buy all of my parts from Summit.

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17 hours ago, Kosage Chavis said:

Pictures?

Car is locked away for now.  Really nothing to show:  same black motor (size and shape) as stock; different wiring hidden; close inspection shows it is not split in the middle (no judge would notice!); pictures on the net for  Four Seasons 35490.

Most stock motors can be disassembled , cleaned and lubed...mine were "messed with" and the $62 was well worth the aggravation avoidance.

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Coincidentally, my underseat heater motor just started acting up - it was running fine on high and then it quit while the switch was still on.  Procrastinated and whined about pulling the new upholstered seat out and tearing the motor apart, debated getting a new motor as mentioned above, ended up smacking it lightly with a BFH and it started working again.  Imagine that.  Will see how long it lasts but so far is humming right along.

 

Why was the underseat heater blower being used in June?  Because I like to keep everything in the car "moving", and wouldn't you know the Ranco valve just got stuck open, and I had just replaced that 7 years ago.  Was hoping the bellows wasn't shot like the original.  Pulled it out and flushed hot water through it and got some crud out.  Worked the plunger back and forth, let the seal and shaft sit overnight with silicone spray in it.  Ran cold and hot water on the capillary and verified the water flow through the valve started and stopped.

 

BTW - if anyones interested the 56 product school manual has a good section on capillary tube placement.

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