kalve

1952 Plymouth Suburban

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Have a guy wanting to trade me a 1952 Plymouth Suburban for my 1970 AMC Rebel SST Wagon. Was wanting to know on the Plymouth were can I get the wiring upgrade to make it a 12 Volt system & is it hard to change over? What alternator would fit the car? After I upgrade the wiring plan to upgrade from generator to alternator. For right now that would be about it would need to do new plugs & wires & distributor etc.. was told car cam from Florida & has about 60K on it & has been sitting for a few years.

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Really no need to change to `12 volt. Good battery and correct 6 volt cables will allow the car to start well.  i had my generator rebuilt and have had no problems keeping the battery charged but 6 volt alternators are available as well if you want one.  Wiring kits are available  from several places if needed. I still have the original wiring on my 52 and have had no problems.  I suggest going here for more and better information:  http://p15-d24.com/page/index.html

Edited by plymouthcranbrook (see edit history)

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Were can you get 6 volt alternators at? Thought they were all 12 volt.

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How high amp can I go 60 amp or can I go 100 amp on the car with all factory setup?

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I doubt there would be any reason to go more than 60 amps.

I put a 60 on my 52 and it worked great.

I didn't have a radio, but did have an over drive.

The alternator I used made a very slight whine, Not enough to be any bother, but that is typical to alternators. You hear them on most cars that have them.

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planning to buy a new alternator for it & see what I need to do to get it running its tight needs freed up some. An need to find out what bolts & springs I need for the hood. The hood is just laying on the car & I am missing all hardware needed to reattach the hood. I traded cars last week Plymouth dont look to bad it needs driver inner & outer rockers & driver front floorpan & both door glasses & fix big dent in roof & reattach hood & change both rear tires. Car aint in bad shape for the age its been sitting a long time sticker on car says 1979/1980 NC

 

Edited by kalve (see edit history)

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"planning to buy a new alternator for it & see what I need to do to get it running its tight needs freed up some. An need to find out what bolts & springs I need for the hood. The hood is just laying on the car & I am missing all hardware needed to reattach the hood. "

 

I might have all that hood hardware in my bone yard.  PM me if interested.

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That is before & after shots put some color on it real fast over the weekend in between it raining. It still needs the over spray cleaned up an some other stuff but not bad for $50 Rustoleum paint & primer somebody painted it light blue at some point this is Aqua Blue. Going to have it painted right later on just right now wanted to sand all the surface rust off an protect that body & now work on getting it running & then do the body work on it.

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For  future reference  masking tape and newspaper is a whole lot easier and cheaper than the aggrevation of trying to get that paint off the belt line molding  and glass.  I've also used a for sale sign as a block while I'm spraying to cut in close to areas to avoid overspray.  Works pretty well. Never tried it on a car but I did it on other non crucial things. 

Edited by auburnseeker (see edit history)

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Was putting a rush on it it was raining off an on the weekend an I was doing it when it was not raining. Was just putting paint on it as fast as I could when I got done it poured it down.  It had surface rust all over it an lots of places no paint just bare metal. 

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I wasn't trying to get down on you for the paint job,  just the work you created for yourself trying to clean the paint off the trim.  If you don't wait too long,  solvent like lacquer thinner might take it off.  I've just been there with trying to get paint off moldings and it can be really frustrating.  What you want the paint to stay on usually doesn't and what you try to get it off from,  never seems to come loose.  Murphy's law I guess. 

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ok will check them out & yea weekend is going to be clean up the over spray & change both rear tires & see if I can get it running

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Does anybody know what you need to do to change the ignition switch out on a 1952 Plymouth Suburban? I need to change it out the guy I got it from lost the keys & I got a new one & need to put it in.

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I think the chrome collar unscrews and the switch comes out through the rear of the dashboard.

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There is a small capped hole directly under the IGN switch on the lower dash.

A phillip's head screw holds the IGN switch in place. Remove the phillip screw.... pull the switch rearward out of the dash about two inches..but first remove the firewall rubber grommet that locks the armored cable to the firewall....then pull armored cable and switch through firewall and into the the car.

 

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It says this cars came with 15" wheels it has 14" on it now. Looking to go back to 15". What wheels will fit this car like Buick Ford etc.. ? Like to find a nice chrome set of wheels for it.

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ok what about wheels from a Ford GM etc.. will any of those fit & if so what years?

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You can put a Mopar wheel on a Ford, But you can't put a Ford wheel on a Mopar. The center hole is a bit smaller on the Ford wheels. We are talking oem wheels here.

The aftermarket wheels will usually fit both.

You have what they call a 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern. (five bolts on a four and one half inch diameter circle)  GM cars mostly have a 5 on 4 3/4" bolt circle and will not fit any Ford or Mopar.

Don't forget that these early Plymouth wheel lugs have left handed threads on the left side of the car.

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