'63 Rust Decision

[JDRiv]

In the quest to get my ’63 up to the status of a daily driver, I’ve spent most of my efforts on mechanical and electrical.   Lately though, I’ve been looking into getting some of the rust issues fixed especially around the rear glass, which is rusted in spots into the flat surface outside the window frame channel.  I’m thinking I have three options…have a skilled sheet metal restoration shop fabricate a new rear glass frame, find a source for the affected part(s) from a donor car and have them grafted in….or find a good project car that has a better body than mine and embark on making one good Riv out of two.  Honestly at this point, the thought of finding a car that has much less rust than mine is very appealing.  I’m not sure what the best course of action is.  It seems that I am at a bit of a crossroads and would welcome any input and suggestions from the fellows in the ROA.  Thanks in advance, Jeff D.

[RivNut]

To be honest, I don't think you'll find a parts cat that has sheet metal in any better condition than what you have.  I had a new pie e mace for mine exactly where yours is bad.  A competent guy with a sheet metal break can make short work of that. Plus when you put new metal in, you can see why the factory seams went bad and correct for that.  If any one might have a car from which you could get that, it would be Larry Daisey. You can see where the spot welds were drilled out, so that the new piece could be installed like it was from the factory.  I'll find a picture of the same area after the new metal was installed and post it later.

[Zimm63]

I fixed mine too.  Persnickity little job.  

 

[JZRIV]

How much rust does the car have in other areas? Rust repair is very costly due to how labor intensive it is. Once the glass is removed you will find more extensive rust than you see now. Unless you have lots of disposable income or the car has sentimental value my gut feel is move on and find a car with a solid body. But first we need to know the level of rust elsewhere. 

Edited June 1, 2018 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[EmTee]

How competent are you with a MIG welder?  If you need practice, I'd suggest tackling another area first; ideally something that won't preclude driving/enjoying the car in nice weather.  I agree with Zimm63 and RivNut -- it's not a technically outrageous job, but will consume a large amount of your time (and may require a couple of attempts to get the result you want).  That said, it's not really recommended to drive around with the back glass removed, so I'd probably schedule this job for the off-season...

[Scott Mckenzie]

Rust repair is not the alchemy it once was,Mig welders,flanging tools and panel bonding adhesives make it doable for the home builder. Use 023 wire and the welds grind off easily. Start in a area that is not seen and progress from there. Your biggest investment is time.

[JDRiv]

Thanks to all for the good inputs and advice.   JZRIV got right to the heart of the matter.   This car does in fact have sentimental value.   It belonged to my wife's parents and I rescued it from growing up in weeds at their home in Georgia.   All those years outside took their toll.   What you see around the rear window frame does extend inside the trunk compartment where the body's internal sheet metal behind the package shelf and below the window's trailing edge is also rotted/perforated, so it seems this will require a lot of effort to make solid again.   Despite the family ties, my wife is supportive even if it means finding a more solid car to spend my time on.  I'm still taken with the first generation Rivs so that's almost certainly would it would be.   In the mean time, maybe I can look into picking up some MIG welding skills.   Thanks again.   You guys are the best.  

[60FlatTop]

6 hours ago, Scott Mckenzie said:

Rust repair is not the alchemy it once was

 

You know, taking that literally, you might say the body guy really can turn rust into gold. Well, maybe silver certificates.