1953 Special - spark plugs (and other matters)

[JBP]

Hello all. Doing some work to my ‘53 Special, and looking for your opinions on a few issues. 

 

Currently running the engine with NGK XR4 plugs. Just wondering what other people have in their Straight Eights, and which plug gives the best performance. 

 

Thanks,

 

Josh

[Aaron65]

The plain old AC R45 works fine.  Right now I think I'm running the Autolite 295 in mine, which also seems to work well and is a non-resistor plug (which really doesn't make any difference).

[JBP]

Thanks, Aaron; much appreciated!

[Beemon]

7 hours ago, Aaron65 said:

The plain old AC R45 works fine.  Right now I think I'm running the Autolite 295 in mine, which also seems to work well and is a non-resistor plug (which really doesn't make any difference).

 

Resistor plugs will make the coil work harder since it has to build a bigger charge to arc across the electrode. 

[60FlatTop]

I have been using NGK plugs in a lot of applications where I would have used AC45's and some newer. I got introduced to them through Jaguar V12's. I first put them in Tom Pirrung's '50 Super, still running well last time I asked.

 

I just pulled an old 45 and set it on the counter, "match me up an NGK". I like them in my 3.8 as well.

Bernie

[Aaron65]

I don't think I'd trust an average counterperson to match up a plug to another model these days...maybe one of the older guys if I really trusted him.  A couple of the guys at my local Auto Value could.  Either way, an NGK "4" MAY be a bit hot for an engine that originally used an AC 46, but chances are you don't drive the car very hard anyway.

Edited May 23, 2018 by Aaron65 (see edit history)

[JBP]

Thanks guys. Always appreciate hearing what people have tried with their cars, and the results. 

 

Just having work done to the engine head and taking the opportunity to refresh some other items while I’m at it. 

[JBP]

One thing I meant to ask was about the group’s recommendations for removing the thick carbon from the top of the pistons (since the head is off, will do some cleaning). 

 

Apart from denial, swearing, and prayer, is there another “best practice” to follow?

 

Josh

[avgwarhawk]

 I soaked mine in ZEP 505 Grease cleaner.  It softens up the  carbon.  Required some scraping and finally OOO steel wool.   Also, ZEP 505 is very strong but a bit more friendly for cleaning grease off your parts.   

[avgwarhawk]

As for plugs,  44S are had to come by and usually costly when found.  I run AC Delco R45  without issue.  I also ran  Autolites that cross referenced with the R45.   These also worked fine.               

[JBP]

Thanks for the recommendation, Chris.

 

I pulled the water pump off today (as I have a rebuilt one from Bob’s that will be going on). If it had been off before today, it was decades ago. Bolts didn’t want to let go easily! 

[60FlatTop]

On 5/23/2018 at 7:27 PM, Aaron65 said:

I don't think I'd trust an average counterperson to match up a plug to another model these days...maybe one of the older guys

 

I don't either. I should have written, I told him to bring me plugs of the same style and tip configuration. And "I" will pick the match. That is really what happened. The only counter person I trust is Lenny at Northwestern Auto Supply and he is 500 miles away from me.  http://northwesternautosupply.com/

Bernie

 

[avgwarhawk]

10 hours ago, JBP said:

Thanks for the recommendation, Chris.

 

I pulled the water pump off today (as I have a rebuilt one from Bob’s that will be going on). If it had been off before today, it was decades ago. Bolts didn’t want to let go easily! 

Some can be stubborn like a mule.  A little heat can sometimes be persuasive enough to break them free.  

[avgwarhawk]

R

Edited May 25, 2018 by avgwarhawk (see edit history)

[JBP]

Today’s task was removing the core plugs and flushing out the block. The front plug had been pulled and replaced with a rubber expandable plug at some time in the past (probably during the Johnson Administration by the look of it). 

 

Popped it out without too much trouble, but the others would not budge. Used a few different punches and punched holes through all them without much trouble (pretty thin and rusted backs), but the outer rims are still tight in the block. 

 

Opened them all up well enough to get the hose in and flush everything out, which was great. 

 

Anyone have any tips for popping the core plugs out? 

 

Josh

Edited May 27, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Hammer and chisel worked for me.

 

  Ben

[JBP]

Thanks, Ben. Not sure why they wouldn’t rotate for me. Tried working an edge first on each of them. I’ll be trying again later. Going to blast and paint some engine pieces today. 

[Aaron65]

I wonder if someone at some point used some gorilla snot (weatherstrip adhesive) or something to seal those plugs.  Maybe (carefully!) try a little heat around the edges to help get everything pliable again if nothing else works.

 

Did you try pushing them in with a large socket on the inside (one that just fits inside the flange)?  Don't worry about driving them in; you can retrieve them easily from the water jacket.

Edited May 27, 2018 by Aaron65 (see edit history)

[NTX5467]

I like NGKs, too.  GM started putting NGKs in ACDelco boxes for Buick 3800SC applications in the late 1990s.  Many more NGK Iridium plus in ACDelco boxes in current times!

 

I started using their V-power plugs (which were OEM with Toyota at the time).  NGK heat ranges go backward from normal ACD, or other USA brands).  You can find parts crosses on their website.  I found an explanation of their spark plug numbering system online many years ago.  Therefore, using the specs from another brand of plug, you can probably find the applicable NGK plug going at it that way.  Just remember the "backward" heat range progression of NGK plugs  (lower heat range number is hotter)!  Google searches can be an asset.  

 

Thing is . . . NGK has a number for the individual plug (as XR-4), which is what WE normally deal with.  There's a part number for the "package of 4" of the XR-4 plug.  SO, go by the plug part number designation rather than what's on the box of 4 or box of 8.  Not unlike an ACDelco plug being a "R45S", but what the dealer deals with/orders from GM would be a 7 or 8-digit part number in a particular quantity.

 

Somewhere, I read that NGKs had a lower internal electrical power consumption level than other brands of spark plugs, resistor or not.

 

You can either use a "wire" spark plug wire with a resistor spark plug or a resistance spark plug wire and a non-resistor spark plug . . . to decrease ignition noise in your AM OR FM radio.  Earlier vehicles use the wire-wire and non-resistor plugs, back when ONLY law enforcement radios were using the FM orientation.

 

The more "resistance" the spark plug energy transmission network has to the individual spark plug's ground, the more voltage the coil must generate to fire the plug.  Whether from a wider gap between the distributor rotor and the distributor cap, the plug wires, the spark plug, and/or the spark plug's gap.  This can help get a hotter spark generated, as long as the coil can support such action, especially with a 12V Negative ground system.

 

For many of our older engines, the factory-spec spark plug can work fine.  I've found Motorcraft plugs to last/wear much better than ACDelcos, for example.  For many, it's more important to have local availability at a good price, which is understandable.  I like the "gap, install, not worry about them" orientation myself.

 

Enjoy!

NTX5467

 

 

[NTX5467]

Core plugs?  Might have some luck with a long, large screwdriver and a mallet?  The some appropriate Permatex sealer for the install into clean diameter holes.  Punch the hole in the core plug, then insert the screw driver end into those smaller holes and seek to lever the plugs out of their holes.  Enough of the screwdriver shaft inserted to be near the edge of the plug for best results.  Great idea to get the water jackets cleaned while the head is off!

 

NTX5467

[JBP]

Thanks for the spark plug advice, NTX5467!  Yeah, it will be a contest of wills between me and the core plugs, but I’ll get them out (I have no choice now!).

 

Thanks for your suggestion for using heat, Aaron. If they don’t move for me when I go at them again, I’ll give that a shot. 

 

Got a lot of blasting and painting done. Valve cover, spark plug cover, push rod cover, thermostat housing, air cleaner, top of the oil filter, and painted the water pump and put newly cad-plated fittings into them. 

Edited May 28, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[60FlatTop]

17 hours ago, NTX5467 said:

The more "resistance" the spark plug energy transmission network has to the individual spark plug's ground, the more voltage the coil must generate to fire the plug.

 

This is the reason I always ground the coil wire with an alligator clip jumper if I need to crank an engine with the ignition powered up. A gap into infinity has the potential (no pun) to overload an old coil and add another problem to your job. Ohm's Law works every time.

Bernie

[JBP]

Unloaded my rebuilt head today. Engine shop did a terrific job. New valves, guides, and springs. The head was magnafluxed for cracks and nothing found which was great. They also only very lightly decked the surface, as warping was not an issue. 

 

I was also lucky enough to source a NOS rocker arm shaft in the original Buick packaging tube from a gentleman whose father CLOSED the family garage in 1953! Been sitting on a shelf all these years, waiting for a customer. I couldn’t say no. 

 

Also hammered out all the core plugs; they did not go quietly, but they went! Coated with rust. 

Edited June 3, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Maybe a bit late, but when I was struggling with the core plugs on my 1940, I was able to pry enough of the torn plug out far enough to get vise grips on it. Then just lever it out by prying against the block surface or a pry bar underneath for a bit more throw.

 

Cheers, Dave

[JBP]

Thanks Dave; I was able to get them out, and the new ones are in place. 

 

Getting ready to put the head back on. In the manual it calls for the threads on the head bolts going in on the left hand side to be coated with a sealing compound, as they are entering the water jacket. 

 

I have some of the dark brown Permatex liquid sealant (form-a-gasket). Is this all right to use for this application, or is there a better product? 

[NTX5467]

Is it Permatex #2?  Sealant, not gasket maker.  

 

NTX5467

[JBP]

Yes, it’s the liquid sealant. Photo attached. 

[Aaron65]

The 263 has blind head bolt holes, so the head bolts shouldn't need sealer.  You can double check by sticking a pick (or maybe an air attachment hooked to your air compressor) down in the bolt holes just to verify (and who knows if the engine is original?).  At any rate, when I reinstalled the head on mine back when I first got it, I did some research and found that 248s and 320s have open head bolt holes on the driver's side, but 263s did not.  

 

On another note, Permatex #2 and #3 (which is the bottle you show) are my go to sealers for all kinds of jobs.  Either will work fine on threads going into oil or water.

Edited June 10, 2018 by Aaron65 (see edit history)

[JBP]

Very good info to have, Aaron. Thanks for that. I was going by what the ‘52 shop manual outlines (which is the one us 1953 Special owners are to utilize), and it recommends that for the left side, the threads on the head bolts should be covered in sealing compound as they are open to the water jacket. 

 

Actually, I’ve not researched my engine serial number to see where it falls in terms of production. Hmmmm. 

[JBP]

Accomplished a lot today, which was great. A friend came over to help me hoist the head back onto the block and the operation went well. I found a NOS head gasket unopened in the original packaging, unbent and in perfect condition. It was almost too nice to use......almost. Head went back on fairly easily. New lifters oiled up and inserted into place, and the push rod cover installed. 

 

 

Edited June 11, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[Airy Cat]

I have been running Autolite #175 spark plugs in my '54 '55 and '56 Buicks for years and have had no problems with them.

[JBP]

Had my window frames blasted and powder coated, so I bought a new length of window channel “fuzzy” material and spent a few hours today cutting, shaping, and installing them. As the staples were trashed when I pulled the old strips off before sending the frames to be powder coated, I used stainless steel aviation wire, twisted the ends, snipped them short and tucked the ends under the frame. Worked really well. Kept the strip tight to the frame and looks like a staple. 

Edited June 15, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[JBP]

Installed the window frames today, and did some finishing assembly on some of the last pieces to go back on the block and head (water pump, new upper and lower rad hoses, copper manifold gaskets, new tappet cover gasket being torqued down a bit by the cover in the second photo, etc.). Aiming to light her up tomorrow morning. 

 

Anyone have any tips or advice on what to do or expect? Will have to adjust the lash tomorrow, but while I know (and hope) the engine will sound and behave differently now, not certain if there are any other hidden landmines to be avoided before I press the pedal on the mighty Fireball 8. 

Edited June 16, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[JBP]

Changed the oil this morning, refilled the coolant, checked all the lines and made sure the bolts were all cinched. Engaged the starter, and after a few cranks, the engine fired and ran! Was really happy to hear that sound! 

 

Valves were clattery, but let her run for about 20 minutes and made sure everything was warmed up and adjusted the lash. It quieted down quite a lot, but think I need to give it some more attention. Took the car for a short drive for a few blocks; the difference in power was quite noticeable, and I was amazed to see how cool the car runs now. Even after warming up and the drive, the temp needle was well below the “N” and angled down closer to the bottom of the gauge. Thinking that the flushing of the block and the cleaning of the head must have opened things up substantially.

I’ll continue to tune the car this week. 

[JBP]

Spent a few hours today with a friend dialling in the valve lash, and we got it running smoothly and quietly (funny how the manual is so casual in the description of how to do it, not really mentioning that you’ll be tightening and loosening set screws on a piece of rapidly moving machinery). Engine went from sounding like a muffled typewriter to a quiet sewing machine, very responsive to the throttle and running strongly. Will do some minor carb adjustments and fine tune my distributor, but overall very happy with how it’s performing. 

 

It’s a great feeling (that people on this forum can relate to) when you’ve worked toward something with your car, and you see the end result has made a vast improvement. Makes all the minor annoyances and setbacks fade away. 

Edited June 19, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[JBP]

Found a fully rebuilt correct Stromberg carburetor for the Special and installed it on Friday. It was like the car woke up! Very responsive, lots of power, smooth and quiet. Considering I live at an altitude that’s 3400 feet above sea level, the Buick now pulls a steady 15 inches of vacuum, which is great. The new carb was the last large piece needed to complete the puzzle. 

 

While I was road testing, I ended up behind a guy who was towing a small trailer loaded with grass clippings and small bits of lawn debris. After a few minutes of getting this stuff blown onto my car, I had enough. Passed him, while going up a long hill and pulled away, holding 65 with ease (which I could not do before on an uphill grade). The expression of surprise on his face was terrific. I foresee many, many tanks of gas this summer......

 

 

Edited July 15, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[Aaron65]

You'll use many tanks of gas no matter how much you drive it, because if it's anything like mine, the gas mileage is nothing to crow about. 

 

It's worth it though.  Like I tell people when they want to talk about the car (which is always), it's slow but at least it gets 10 miles to the gallon.  None of that matters, however, because it looks great and smells great and is great.  Congratulations on getting it going.

[JBP]

Thanks Aaron. This is my 5th summer since I bought the car, and it’s nice to see the repair list get shorter each year (until there’s new things on it to fix). While my car is just the basic sedan, and there are things about it that aren’t correct, it’s been great to work on and I love to drive it. 

[JBP]

I pulled the speedometer this weekend, as I’ve had enough of the faint grinding noise and watching the needle bounce up and down as if the car were cresting 8 foot swells at sea. The cable’s been replaced and greased, so I ruled that out as the likely cause. 

 

Took it into the shop that services instruments of this vintage, and waiting to see what the estimate will be. Had a quick scout around the Internet, and don’t see a repair kit being offered for these instruments. Is there a good kit offered that I missed?

 

Edited July 23, 2018 by JBP (see edit history)

[JBP]

The repair place estimated about $400 to repair my speedometer, citing rarity of parts, etc., as the reason for the price. I said “no thank you,” and reinstalled it. Strangely enough, the bit of cleaning and light lubrication he did has quieted it down significantly. I have a clockmaker who cleans and repairs my railway regulator clocks, and I had him rebuild the clock for the Buick a few years ago. He did a great job. I’ll have him rebuild the speedo this winter, as I’m certain he can track down gear trains and springs that will be able to work as replacement parts.  

 

On another note, since having the head redone, the cork valve cover gasket no longer really bonds well to the engine surface, and there’s some more oil leaking out under the gasket. I’ve tried roughing the surface up a bit before applying the adhesive, but it doesn’t seem to have worked well enough. 

 

Anyone have a sure-fire trick for getting the valve cover gaskets to sit and seal?