Acrylic enamel Vs. Single stage Urethane

[tom61]

I recently Used a 12oz Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel aerosol spray can to paint a steering wheel and I very much like the result.

An aspect that's extremely good is that the finish is high gloss and required no polishing or buffing, which would have been difficult with all the curves of the steering wheel. I'm relatively new to painting, but it seems to me that Enamel paints don't get orange peel (at least from my experience as I said above) and thus don't require the buffing and sanding that 2 stage urethanes do. However it seems to me that single stage urethanes might have the same effect?

The Acrylic Enamel did require a few hours to dry completely, but I much rather wait than having to go through the trouble of sanding and buffing.

 

Iv'e also seen people succesfully use industrial Enamels for painting cars, so maybe that's an option. I'd like the paint to look original, so I don't metalics or any of the fancy paints, just a strong and durable paint that's single colour and glossy.

 

Summer is coming, and I would like to paint my Desoto with a black paint. Now I haven't yet found a comparison between Enamel and single stage urethanes, and so I was hoping that someone might be able to outline their differences , features and where to buy them in Canada or online...It seems that it's much easier to buy paint in the States rather than Canada...so If anyone knows where I can find a good paint that's reasonably priced I'd much appreciate it as well.

 

 

[Paul Dobbin]

Tom,

I suspect you will find that the rattle can paint on the heavy use steering wheel will end up unsatisfactory for that use due to its softness.   I prefer Acrylic enamel with a hardener.   Creates a  almost indestructible finish that won't peel or scratch.  I never got into base clear, because the acrylic with hardener is so forgiving for us amateurs. 

 

[jpage]

You'll find that the acrylic enamel is much like the urethane in spraying qualities and prep. They can both use the same thinner but require different hardeners. The urethane is supposed to be a little more durable than acrylic enamel. They both dry to touch overnight and hard in a few days. I use both types for all my small parts and it is rather forgiving. if you do make a big mistake, just let it dry a few days, sand it smooth and reshoot. I had a Model A painted in acrylic enamel and the paint lasted for the 16 years that I had it with no problem. A really good painter could most likely spray on nice enamel or urethane job but I think it would be best to have it finish sanded and buffed for the best finish and gloss.

[Paul Dobbin]

P. S.  I also put a little satin finish in to take away the high gloss on steering wheels.

I did a 34  Ford black steering wheel in about 1981 and it still looked like new bakelite

when I sold it in 1998, no scratching or peeling ever.

[RansomEli]

Here's the deal.  Acrylic enamels are nice. You'll need a flow additive. But you can get orange peel if the paint is too thick. But it's relatively safe to spray (as long as you use a proper respirator.  To spray a car properly you need an HVLP gravity-fed gun and a compressor that can keep up with it.

 

Urethanes are easier to spray and leave a smoother coat. You need an HVLP gravity-fed gun and a compressor that can keep up with it.  But urethanes are dangerous - they contain isocyanates, which are dangerous. Paint manufacturers recommend a "space suit" with a fresh-air system. Google "automobile paint urethane isocyanates" and read deeply. You'll read about hobbyists who claim you don't need all that stuff and that a good charcoal filter and ventilation will do. I don't know what to think but want to take care of my lungs. Isocyanate poisoning is really, really rough. 

 

Acrylic enamels do not use isocyanates. Stay with acrylic enamel and the additive (along with reducer). Your lungs will thank you.

 

Or, you can paint with acrylic lacquer. Easy to use and very forgiving. But more expensive. Some colors are really expensive. A bit safer than acrylic enamel. You can still buy acrylic Lacquer. But make sure it's the real stuff. TCP Global sells it. Hibernia Restoration does, too.  My next two cars will be painted with acrylic lacquer. You'll need an HVLP gravity gun as well as the compressor. Although with lacquer your gun tip will be 1.0mm instead of 1.4

 

Just my opinion.

 

Oh, and if you want to paint your car black, ask around for the legendary Ditzler/PPG DDL 9300. The gold standard of Black.  Used to buy it for $50 per gallon. Now, if you look hard you may find it for $700.

 

Edited May 4, 2018 by RansomEli
added a PS (see edit history)

[R Walling]

 I painted my steering wheel with industrial imron.

 I applied it real heavy so that it ran down and left a drip on the underside at each finger groove

 

 It really improved the grip with the extra depth of the groove.

 

Try it, you'll like it!

[Frank DuVal]

On 5/3/2018 at 9:46 PM, RansomEli said:

Ditzler/PPG DDL 9300

 

That was PPG's General Motors black. Matched better than their DDL9000 black.

 

Years ago I painted several show cars with DDL9300. What a deep black after hand rubbing.

[Frank DuVal]

PPG just (April 5, 2018) announced the discontinuation of the DDL line of paint:

 

http://us.ppgrefinish.com/PPG-Refinish/Notifications-Result/2018/Obsolescence-Notice-Deltron-DDL-Duracryl-Acrylic

 

I also see TCP Global no longer carries PPG paint.

[60FlatTop]

Here is an automotive Irom job. I have a little left in the can and some hardener in case I need to touch-up. There are rain drops on it in this picture.

 

And how it looked under the car.

I don't remember how much the paint was. I get like that when I am happy. If I hadn't been happy I would remember the cost to the penny.

 

Don't skimp. Be happy.

Bernie

 

[tom61]

Hey everyone, thanks so much for your inputs.

I'd like to clarify that Im not painting the steering wheel, I want to paint the whole car.

 

I think my questions resume to:

 

1) Acrylic enamel seems to be a thick (high viscosity) paint when compared to laquer and enamel. Is single stage urethane as thick as acrylic enamel?

 

2) 2 stage paint jobs require sanding, polishing and buffing before applying the clear coat and also after the clear coat is applied. When I painted the steering wheel, the finish was nice even without buffing.

 

Is buffing/polishing required for acrylic enamel and single stage urethane when painting an entire car?

 

 

Thanks once again for all your inputs!

[tom61]

As for the colour, I'm just looking for a deep black that will provide durable protection and look nice, not expensive rare paints.

[jpage]

Martin -Senour used to have a really deep black. It's not necessary to buff out acrylic enamel or a urethane job, but many times there will be some dirt or imperfections that can be sanded and rubbed out. Sanding also levels any orange peel and with buffing gives a very slick shine. You must wait until the paint drys well before sanding and buffing. Runs  and sags can be a problem with both types and they can appear at any time. Acrylics are usually sprayed with a tack coat first to control sagging and urethane usually just require a couple of medium coats waiting about 10 min. between coats to allow it to set. Spaying with a gun is completely different than a spray can. It's also important to get the mixes correct and consistent. If you have no experience I would suggest that you do not attempt to paint your car yourself.It's always better to find someone who knows what they are doing to save you money and trouble! There"s a lot of work getting a car ready for the final color coats! Also a good professional respirator is required as well as keeping your body covered and protected from the overspray. This stuff can kill! I've been painting small parts for many years and still won't attempt to paint a car! 

[Frank DuVal]

58 minutes ago, tom61 said:

1) Acrylic enamel seems to be a thick (high viscosity) paint when compared to laquer and enamel. Is single stage urethane as thick as acrylic enamel?

 

This is dependent on brand, but most acrylic enamels were the same viscosity when sprayed as alkyd enamels. Let's get some terms straight. Acrylic enamel (PPG's Deltron, Dupont's Centari) is enamel. Alkyd enamel is enamel.  They are very similar in they undergo oxidation as part of the curing along with evaporation of solvent, unlike lacquer which just dries by the evaporation of solvent. Except for smell, alkyd and acrylic enamels sprayed the same to me. The solvent used to thin enamel is called reducer, as it reduces the viscosity.

 

Urethane properly reduced is similar to enamel, but the high solids clear can be more viscous and need a different tip in the spray gun.

 

1 hour ago, tom61 said:

2) 2 stage paint jobs require sanding, polishing and buffing before applying the clear coat and also after the clear coat is applied. When I painted the steering wheel, the finish was nice even without buffing.

 

I can guarantee you this is not a paint design requirement. All these paints (enamels and urethanes) were designed to go on glossy and dry glossy without the need to sand and buff. The only reason to sand and buff is to remove imperfections (orange peel, dirt, moths,spiders?). Imperfections come in any slow dry paint, like enamels and urethanes, although the time to dry can be modified by hardner type and solvent speed. Yes, even alkyd enamel had hardners with isocyanates, I've sprayed a lot of R-M's Super-Max alkyd enamel with Starrock hardner back in the day.

 

And, very important, you DO NOT usually touch the color coat before the clear coat is applied. NO sanding, buffing, whatever, just a tack cloth. If you need to wait before clear a day or so, you might need to scuff the surface and respray a coat of color, then clear. If you sand the color coat and then clear, then you have visible sand scratches in the final product! Or worse, thin see through color.

 

jpage has good info.

[ted sweet]

you do nt buff or sand a 2 stage before clear