1968 Riv Add a A/C? And help for buying a Riv

[BBK]

Hi, 

 

Sorry for my English. My name is Sebastian and I'm from Germany. On Saturday I will look at a 1968 Riviera http://www.classic-car-ranch.de/index.php/cars/buick/1-detail

First may you can help me If this is a good choice? 

The only negative which I found on the pics is that it hasn't the stock A/C. Is it possible and worthwhile to add a spare part A/C? 

Thank you for your help

[PWB]

Welcome!

This car had A/C. It was removed. 

I see wiring, brackets and controls for A/C.

It would be easy to return the system.

Shift console adds value.

Good luck

 

 

[Schmiddy]

Hey Sebastian and welcome to the ROA forum! 
I've check the pics... this is a neat 68 mein Lieber! Hast du den auch auf dem Lift gecheckt - Unterboden, Rost unter den Türen, Rahmen, etc.?! ?  

My 65 has no AC, I never really needed an A/C here in Switzerland... In my opinion the missing A/C is not a negative point as long as the rest of the car is really that clean as it looks on the pics (I would like to see some pics from the underside!).
As Paul said, you surely could return the A/C it with the right parts... I'm sure, here you will get the needed answers from the '68 specialists!

Price looks fair: 16'000€ is about 19'500$. I've seen others who were worse for much more here in Europe! ? 
 

Schlag zu und geniesse!!! ?? ?? ...alles Andere kommt von selbst!

 

[NC1968Riviera]

Sébastien, welcome to the forum. If you can get the car on a lift to see the underside, do so. I bought my 68 without doing an underside inspection. I soon discovered a big rusted through hole under my back seat big enough to put my hand through. If I had seen this before I bought it, I would have negotiated a better price than what I paid. 

 

If you buy it, be sure to join the ROA and share some pictures of the car. 

 

That's a great looking car. I wonder if it is a "K" paint code (Aqua Mist) car? Mine is Aqua Mist. 

Good luck! 

Edited April 26, 2018 by NC68Riviera (see edit history)

[BBK]

Thank you guys. Nice to hear that it is fixable to repair the AC. I will look at this in detail at Saturday. Also I will look under the car. 

 

@NC68Riviera

Why you wonder about the color? 

Edited April 27, 2018 by BBK (see edit history)

[JZRIV]

Your English is fine Sebastian. Welcome to the forum.

 

Getting the parts and restoring the original a/c system to function properly will be expensive. $2000 USD min and that does not include labor if done in the US. Since the system has been left open to atmosphere every component must be removed tested and cleaned. 

The wheels may be 71-78 vintage based on the centers on them. If so they will rub on the brake drum fins because wheel back spacing is different between 66-70 and 71-78 wheels. Common mistake on these cars. 

The car looks nice and straight in pics. 

Edited April 27, 2018 by JZRIV (see edit history)

[NC1968Riviera]

9 hours ago, BBK said:

Thank you guys. Nice to hear that it is fixable to repair the AC. I will look at this in detail at Saturday. Also I will look under the car. 

 

@NC68Riviera

Why you wonder about the color? 

It appears to be a similar color as my 68 Riviera 

[68RIVGS]

In addition to what Jason has stated Sebastian, the '68 AC systems were a pain in the butt to repair and restore.

You could probably install an under dash, after market AC unit cheaper and with less head aches.

Other than the AC being removed it looks like a nice '68, but check on a hoist for rust and body damage.

[BBK]

So back from visitting the Riv. I will attach some photos maybe you have further tips nd your opinion for me.

 

I didnt see any big problems only the paint was not as expected but seems original. 

 

Seems that it is an ex car from the air force or a member of the air force?

Cant put it on a hoist today I talk the the seller to reserve the car until monday. 

 

 

[RivNut]

If he's selling it as restored, you should offer him way less than he's asking.  If he's offering it "as is" it really depends on what you're willing to spend on purchasing it and what you're willing to spend getting it back to 100%, how much of that you can do yourself, what parts availability is in Germany, and how much you want it to be "like new."  I looked back but didn't see an asking price for it.  One thing, and it's up to you if you want to "fix' it, is those body side moldings - they're not factory, they're aftermarket.  The stainless part of the molding is riveted to the body.  That means that when they were installed, someone drilled holes into the body for the rivets.  Looks nice but to really clean it up, it's going to take some work.

 

Ed

[Chimera]

Does it have front disc brakes or drums all the way around?

Edited April 29, 2018 by Chimera (see edit history)

[JZRIV]

11 hours ago, Chimera said:

Does it have front disc brakes or drums all the way around?

Drum brakes. Definitely looks like wheels from a 71-78. In addition to touching fins on brake drum they are so close to brake back plate in rear that traditional type wheel weights attached to rim edge will get knocked off. 

[Pat Curran]

It looks like some wiring was done (blue wire and junction box on firewall)?  I would want to know what that is for.

If the headlights work as designed, that is always a big plus and will save you a lot of aggravation!!

I like the color combo and the vinyl roof looks like it is in good shape.

Check the base of the “A” pillars to make sure they are solid.  It can be a difficult area to repair and usually requires the removal of the windshield to do it right.

Keep us posted.

[68RIVGS]

. . . what Pat said !!

From the Fisher Body Plate: Paint Code  L6

Paint Code L is Medium Teal Blue Mist, and 6 is a White vinyl  roof.

Edited April 30, 2018 by 68RIVGS (see edit history)

[BBK]

Thank you for your content.

 

Anybody has a detail photo of the front wheel with the correct rims?

The seller will not believe that it is the wrong wheel.

 

As it was requested the Price is 16000 € actual 19300 USD.

 

@Pat

I dont know what they done with the wiring the blue one seemed Not been connected. Headlight goes good!

 

@Riv

Thanks, I dont rrealised that  the body side moldings isnt original.

 

I realised that I dont check a Lot. Not tested the Instruments or rust above the Doors.

 

 

What is the fuel consumption for the 430 engine?

Edited May 1, 2018 by BBK (see edit history)

[68RIVGS]

The 430 will get about 9-18 mpg, depending how heavy your right foot is - not sure what that is in litres per kilometer.

It likes high test fuel, or Av gas f you can get it, but it will perform OK on non-leaded fuel with proper tuning.

If fuel consumption is a concern, the 430 is not the most economical engine to operate !

[RivNut]

2 hours ago, BBK said:

Thank you for your content.

 

Anybody has a detail photo of the front wheel with the correct rims?

The seller will not believe that it is the wrong wheel.

 

As it was requested the Price is 16000 € actual 19300 USD.

 

@Pat

I dont know what they done with the wiring the blue one seemed Not been connected. Headlight goes good!

 

@Riv

Thanks, I dont rrealised that  the body side moldings isnt original.

 

I realised that I dont check a Lot. Not tested the Instruments or rust above the Doors.

 

 

What is the fuel consumption for the 430 engine?

One way for sure is to dismount the tire from the wheel.  The code numbers for the 71 - 78 wheels is 895.  The code number for 67 - 70 wheels is 853. 

 

If the seller will let you, remove the center cap, get a straight edge that is the same length as the diameter of the wheel (it's going to be longer than 15".) Lay the straight edge across the center of the wheel.  If the straight edge sets on the center of the wheel, it's an 895.  If the straight edge rests on the rim, it's an 853.  

 

Another way is to take a wheel off the car and measure the back spacing.  If the back spacing is 3-7/8" it's an 895. If it's only 3-3/8" it's an 853. 

 

The center cap hole on an 895 is 2" in diameter, the center cap on on an 853 is 2-1/8"  

 

Here's a reference chart if you need support for what's above.

 

Edited May 2, 2018 by RivNut (see edit history)

[BBK]

8 hours ago, 68RIVGS said:

The 430 will get about 9-18 mpg, depending how heavy your right foot is - not sure what that is in litres per kilometer.

It likes high test fuel, or Av gas f you can get it, but it will perform OK on non-leaded fuel with proper tuning.

If fuel consumption is a concern, the 430 is not the most economical engine to operate !

95 Octan? 

What is your fuel consumption in average? 9-18 is a big difference. 

[Schmiddy]

3 hours ago, BBK said:

95 Octan? 

What is your fuel consumption in average? 9-18 is a big difference. 

Maybe I'll be smiled a bit, but does the gas mileage really matter when buying this car ?? If so, I generally recommend refraining from a US classic from this periode... (my opinion ?).

http://www.autobild.de/klassik/artikel/verbrauch-von-oldtimern-so-sparsam-sind-klassiker-5583517.html
http://www.autobild.de/klassik/artikel/verbrauchsriesen-die-groessten-klassischen-spritschlucker-724946.html
https://www.motor-talk.de/forum/verbrauch-von-60er-70er-v8-bb-sb-t1907684.html
https://autosleben.com/2016/01/24/amerikanische-muskelautos-teil-4-kraftstoffverbrauch-und-wirtschaftlichkeit/

Have fun while reading these articles ??

 

Edited May 2, 2018 by Schmiddy
add links (see edit history)

[68RIVGS]

14 hours ago, BBK said:

95 Octan? 

What is your fuel consumption in average? 9-18 is a big difference. 

 

 

Never bothered to keep track of it Sebastian, the gas gauge doesn't work, and always reads FULL.

I'm too lazy to fix it, so I just top it up every second  week in our summer season, or before going on a long trip.

I use 94 octane and probably average about 15 mpg.

Others here can probably provide an accurate answer for you.

[NC1968Riviera]

On ‎5‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 5:01 PM, 68RIVGS said:

 

Never bothered to keep track of it Sebastian, the gas gauge doesn't work, and always reads FULL.

I'm too lazy to fix it, so I just top it up every second  week in our summer season, or before going on a long trip.

I use 94 octane and probably average about 15 mpg.

Others here can probably provide an accurate answer for you.

I run 89 octane non-ethanol (92 octane non-ethanol when I can find it). I get around 13 miles per gallon in town, about 15 on the highway. 

Edited May 4, 2018 by NC68Riviera (see edit history)

[BBK]

News news news. 

 

Looking at the Riv second time also with Inspection from under. Looks very good no big rust a little bit oil lost seemed that it is the oil temp or oil pressure sensor? 

Finally I call the seller and buyed the car! 

[NC1968Riviera]

8 hours ago, BBK said:

News news news. 

 

Looking at the Riv second time also with Inspection from under. Looks very good no big rust a little bit oil lost seemed that it is the oil temp or oil pressure sensor? 

Finally I call the seller and buyed the car! 

Congratulations!

 

I am looking forward to seeing more of your car. Now it's time to join the Riviera Owners Association! ?

Edited May 7, 2018 by NC68Riviera (see edit history)

[68RIVGS]

. . . good for you Sebastian - now just enjoy it, and happy motoring !

[NC1968Riviera]

22 hours ago, BBK said:

News news news. 

 

Looking at the Riv second time also with Inspection from under. Looks very good no big rust a little bit oil lost seemed that it is the oil temp or oil pressure sensor? 

Finally I call the seller and buyed the car! 

Sebastian, you should consider replacing all of the rubber headlight vacuum hoses from the headlight vacuum canisters to the actuator (beside the battery in the fender). Also the vacuum hoses from the intake manifold to the vacuum port manifold on the firewall (if its there, see post below to see where it may be located) then from the manifold to the vacuum tank in the driver side fender.

 

Be sure to replace each hose one at a time to ensure your properly connect and route each one, especially from the firewall manifold to the vacuum tank.

 

I don't recommend replacing the rubber vacuum hoses from the light switch on the dash to the engine compartment. When I did this it required removing the dash cluster to have enough room to access the back of the light switch. The rubber hoses attached to the switch may easily come off of the switch and are hard to get back on correctly.

 

Part of the AC/Heat controls are also vacuum operated and unless you have a 1968 Buick Body Service manual, DON'T take any of the hoses or controls apart. The hoses have to be placed on specific ports on the back side of the controls and the AC and heat will not function correctly if the hoses are disconnected or improperly attached to the controls.

 Good luck and feel free to search the forum for information you may need about your car (the question has probably already been asked). You can also post a question to be answered by the forum members.

[BBK]

So the car is now mine and I picked it up. Had some problems on the back transfer, a cable fall of the alternator so that the battery was empty when I restart the engine.

 

Today I checked the car for problems and realise that there is a lot to do.

 

A/C compressor missing

Power antenna, original radio (find some newer radio in the glove box), courtesy light, washer pump, hazard flasher, cruise control doesnt work

 

I hope you can help me to solve following points:

 

1. Im searching for some repair manuals to restore my Riv. Which is the best choice? Is this the best choice? Rockauto Link

2. I think the biggest part dealer with international shipping with good prices seems rockauto (seems my favorite)? Find also some parts on opgi and oldbuickparts. Is there any other dealer which you can recommend?

3. I add some photos the weatherstrip sealing of the doors is really poor. But I dont know which is the right part 

4. I only know modern cars but I smell a lot of gas as I drove the car at home, today as I open the garage I also smell a lot of gas. Is it normal? 

I found behind/under the ar filter a hose which connects the air filter and the engine. Around the connection between the hose and the engine is some fluid. It was wet and smells like gas but I wonder that its not dry maybe some oil/gas mixture?

5. Has anybody for me a photo with open trunk? Some specialist glue in 2 golf balls in two holes

6. All cigarette lighter cant deliver 12 v for gps/smartphone right?

7. Is there any easy access to check the switches for power antenna, courtesy light, washer pump and hazard flasher?

8. Cruise control button makes some magnetic noise but cant feel any cruise control

9. What is the floor switch under the parking brake for?

10. Does somebody have some inspection plan?

 

Sorry for all the questions ;=) 

 

The Riv is now in good hands!

 

[BBK]

nobody can help?

[RivNut]

A factory chassis manual with wiring diagrams is your best source for trouble shooting.  Your description of your problems are very general and vague.  Pick one problem.  Take a bunch of pictures. Do what you can to solve the problem and report your findings.  Solve that problem and move to the next.  

 

The button under the parking brake is probably the dimmer switch for the headlights.

[BBK]

Like this: Bishko

Or is there anything better out there?

[NC1968Riviera]

4 hours ago, BBK said:

Like this: Bishko

Or is there anything better out there?

There are original Buick service manuals available on US Ebay all the time. I highly recommend buying them instead of reprints or CD copies. 

 

These are the three you really need. 

L: 1968 Buick Chassis service manual

Center: 1968 Fisher Body service manual 

R: 1968 Buick Chassis and Body Parts book

Edited May 31, 2018 by NC68Riviera (see edit history)

[Chimera]

I purchased a CD once...ONCE!

[NC1968Riviera]

1 minute ago, Chimera said:

I purchased a CD once...ONCE!

Was that a good or bad experience?

[68RIVGS]

18 minutes ago, Chimera said:

I purchased a CD once...ONCE!

Yah - good or bad Gabriel -  assume good, but you never know?

I prefer hard copy - as in printed manual, and I have two - one to use with greasy finger prints and one for show !

The Fisher Body and Parts Manual (... to the right in Mike's photo), is a great sorce and reference manual for tracking hard to find parts. !

[68RIVGS]

#6 - All cigarette lighters are +12VDC - good for GPS power !

 

#9 - Switch Button on the floor under Parking Brake is dimmer switch for headlights -  there is also a Blue indicator light on the center of the instrument cluster

 

First things first - get yourself some '68 manuals Sebastian, and most of your problems will get solved !

You might also want to get a '68 Buick Riviera User's Manual -  they are reproduced, and contain basic info on the car, all the controls, and maintenance procedures,

in addition to fuse info, light bulb numbers, fluid capacities, and filter numbers, all in US, Imperial, and Metric measure !

All  new '68 GM cars had one in the glove box when they were sold from a dealer.

[NC1968Riviera]

8 minutes ago, 68RIVGS said:

You might also want to get a '68 Buick Riviera User's Manual

Good call! 

[Chimera]

1 hour ago, 68RIVGS said:

Yah - good or bad Gabriel -  assume good, but you never know?

I prefer hard copy - as in printed manual, and I have two - one to use with greasy finger prints and one for show !

The Fisher Body and Parts Manual (... to the right in Mike's photo), is a great sorce and reference manual for tracking hard to find parts. !

hehe, once like never again.

 

I thought it would be cool to just print up what pages I needed, but just really a hassle. Best to get the whole book in hand I think.

 

[68RIVGS]

12 hours ago, Chimera said:

hehe, once like never again.

 

I thought it would be cool to just print up what pages I needed, but just really a hassle. Best to get the whole book in hand I think.

 

 

. . . my preference also Gab, much easier to navigate and you can add 'post-it' note tabs to identify frequently sourced info!

[NC1968Riviera]

25 minutes ago, 68RIVGS said:

 

. . . my preference also Gab, much easier to navigate and you can add 'post-it' note tabs to identify frequently sourced info!

You can see the Post-it-Note "tabs" on my books above. It's the only way to quickly find what you are looking for, (like the HVAC controls vacuum hose connections. I can never seem to find those pages so I "tabbed" them).

[MikeJS]

Good day, 

 

In terms of buying manuals on CD, although I have all the printed manuals for my '64, personally I would caution against buying a CD, as computer technology is evolving to where CD drives will (and mostly have) become obsolete. Most new Apple computers no longer have a CD drive. Printed books will last, and will still be fully accessible long after the CD is simply a table coaster...

 

Later,

 

Mike

[68RIVGS]

2 hours ago, NC68Riviera said:

You can see the Post-it-Note "tabs" on my books above. It's the only way to quickly find what you are looking for, (like the HVAC controls vacuum hose connections. I can never seem to find those pages so I "tabbed" them).

. . . those '68 Manuals look like they should Mike, well used !

Good point you specified about CD Manuals and newer computers - MikeJS !