midman Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 I was going to go to this estate auction but I just do not have room for another car right now. I contacted the auction company and it has a title. Just an FYI if anyone is interested. Brochure attached April-21-2018-1.pdf 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 18, 2018 Share Posted April 18, 2018 Thanks Chuck. I had tried to contact the auction company and they did not respond to my questions. I do not have room or $ either but will go to take photos and do some documentation. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
midman Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Anyone know what the Buick went for? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 (edited) Chuck, I will find out at "Brass at Berks" on the 20th of May. When I left at 1:00 the family was mulling over the top bid of $15,000. The Car-Nation topped out at $9,000 which the family would not accept. I heard them tell the auctioneer that more money was paid for the cars than the top bids. So the auctioneer moved on to other things. I got tired of waiting so we left with both cars a NO SALE at that time. We arrived at the auction around 11:00 am. I was wanting to get the back story about the car from the family. The feeling I got was that they did not wish to speak about the car unless you were the purchaser. I was thinking that the cars would be sold at noon. While taking the photos I am posting and speaking to 3 other interested individuals until 12:30 when they actually started to sell the cars. Our groups agreement was that the car was not a 1908 but a 1910 according to the 13058 Engine #. (1908 Model 10 engine #s range 1- 4002) The rear fenders were straight instead of curved as are 1908s. Many clues indicated that this car was in need of competent repair. Many things seemed to be just quickly cobbled on for the sale. Parts were loose and it seemed that whatever fasteners were handy held some things on. Lots of Phillips screws! There was a section with fresh paint that was still tacky. Many incorrect items. The sale bill described it as a "Nicely Restored Car". Auctioneer tried to start bidding at $20K and things quickly dropped to $5,000 (at this point I wished I had gotten a bidders number) then up to $10,000 in $1,000 increments. After 10K then $500 jumps. Stalling at $15,000. Having picked apart the car one thing I was truly impressed with was the upholstery. I am confident it was the original 1910 leather. Very little wear and HEAVY material with the edges correctly formed over the top edges of the body. Incorrect headlights, side lamps, radiator and the shell was made up in sections. No tail light. Angle iron fan support and oiler box missing if it was to be a 1908. Note modern 6V coil strapped to firewall. It did have a REMEY magneto. Correct spark and throttle controls. Non REMY coil box. Philips screws on brass trim. The spider of the steering wheel was bent the entire steering system was loose. Note the oil sight glass is mounted upside down. Running boards had door mat carpeting. Auctioneer trying to SELL. The Car-Nation to the left. One bidder is in the right side of the photo with arms folded. The 3 interested people I spoke with, (one a bidder) agreed that it would take about $5,000 to make it a reliable driver. Still, IMO I would love to have it! Edited April 23, 2018 by dibarlaw Added content (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terry Wiegand Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Larry, Did anyone grab the crank and turn the engine over? I know that that is one thing that you would have wanted to know for sure. Terry Wiegand South Hutchinson, Kansas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 I most certainly made sure the engine turned over. They made no effort to start either car at auction time. Gee, even when they are trying to sell a lawn mower they let people know it runs by starting them! Again to me the descriptor "Nicely Restored Car" means a running car! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cxgvd Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 The model 10 is pretty, painted correct colours and upholstery, many nice original features and a nice buy IMO. However and I can't believe I am writing this down if a person compares size, comfort, power, top speed and mostly parts supply buy a Ford. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 Sounds like another bunch of collector's clueless children with dollar signs in their eyes. Maybe they will want to "dicker up" lol!! I do have a question, though. The Mod 10 is planetary transmission, right? How is it driven? Same as the T? What does the other side lever do? Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Left to right pedals are Reverse Slow Brake slow is Low. Depress for low gear all pedals untouched is neutral hand levers are parking brake with release button other lever is High so give it some gas as you depress the slow pedal. After a bit of speed like 5 to 8 mph, release the slow pedal and apply the high lever froward and away you go 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Thanks Brian! I imagine all of the Buick 2 speed planetaries worked like this? Also, is it like the T in that if the High lever is left forward, you can slightly depress the Slow pedal to go to neutral (all bands released) and then continue pressing to go into Slow? And then back out to go back into High? Or are the lever and pedal exclusive? I assume the little floor button on the left side is an exhaust cutout. Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian_Heil Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 (edited) They do, but I have some memory that Buick changed the pedal locations/purpose around between this and the F. On the F the Brake is on the far left, Slow in the middle, Reverse on the right. Not sure about the finding neutral trick while in high. Edited April 24, 2018 by Brian_Heil (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonMicheletti Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 I dont remember if high is engaged in the forward or back location. When not engaged it is in neutral. Feet off the pedals the entire car is in neutral. Depress the slow pedal to start off and if you are clever, you can make a really smooth 1 to 2 "shift" by slowly engagning the high handle while easing off the slow pedal while you also work the throttle to match engine speed. It can be tricky while you steer too. After some practice I could make the transition very smooth. Almost like a Buick Dynaflow. I had a '10 Model 10 Surrey 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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