Future of the antique car hobby

[chistech]

I too am starting to see younger people buying old cars. I myself am not considered old enough (56) at times by others I talk with because I restore 30’s GM cars. I’ve literally had many older car lovers ask me what I’m doing with my 31’ Chevy ( original condition) that I should be into rods or muscle cars. What I’ve started to notice is the mechanically inclined 20ish out there (yes, not a lot of them), like the VWs and the Porsche’s, etc., but can’t afford them because even an old Golf has gotten to a crazy amount of collector dollar value. But, with model Ts and As going for as little as $3000 running and drivable, they’re buying those and driving them around with these big grins on their faces and are often the ones finding a group of old timers and working their way into their conversations. When the old timers see that the youngster knows a little something about his car, they quickly start talking with him. This is the way it should be and this is the way it started for many of us. So the common pre-war cars that have dropped low in value are actually bringing some of the youth back in. Yes, bad for the older guy selling his car, but good for the hobby and the young guy buying it. Now if they just put industrial arts back into public schools and every kid had a chance to mess around with pieces of wood and metal, plus actually learn how to use a hammer or screwdriver, not only would the hobby be better, but the whole country would be too.

      I restore cars for people as a hobby business. I’ll take up to three cars in in one year but only one would be a full restoration. The others might be a new roof, interior, engine work, etc. I have had to turn quite a few away now as I’m getting too many calls so I am also seeing a uptick in restoration work out there. I’m mainly known for working  in wood bodied GM cars but I’ve been getting calls for all sorts of stuff. I’ve got a guy down the road who’s begging me to do his 68’ Volvo wagon all back to original. So I guess while many of us talk about the classics and pre-war cars, there’s many others who treasure that 68’ wagon in the same way.

[charlier]

52 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

As a supporting anecdote, I live in a unincorporated area next to a city of 60,000.  There isn't a single auto parts store in town.  Twenty years ago there were several  No one around here knows how to fix anything.  Even the mechanics are all but gone, driven out by landlords cashing in to build townhouses, McMansions, or the third Starbucks on the block.

 

As for my needs: thank God for Rock Auto.

 

My next door neighbor owns a few NAPA parts stores here in my area. He tells me that the vast majority of his store's customers (95%+) are independent car repair shops and car dealers.  They seldom see many retail customers even though his stores are located in some fairly populated areas.

 

Rock Auto is a good resource for many maintenance parts for older cars. Sadly, they cannot and do not carry every part needed to keep old cars on the road.

I just found out I need such a part for my 1985 vehicle. No Longer Available from the dealer (many years ago now), no third party makes the part and this vehicle is seldom seen in auto recycling yards. At least I have 2-3 months before the car requires state inspection to find this part. If not, the car fails and it will sit until I can find the part. Lucky for my car I have connections and I am not scared by the hunt for parts. Sadly, a younger person might find this too difficult and would sell/scrap the same vehicle due to lack of time/money to find a part such as this.

[Paul Dobbin]

I added picture to my original post #13 about the 32 Cadillac V12

Paul

[1935Packard]

15 hours ago, edinmass said:

 

I can easily fix that V-12. So can others. . . . . The main reason MOST pre war cars don't run well is simple..........it's LOTS OF WORK to make them run right. . . . .  There are several shops that specialize in sorting cars to drive. They are very good at it, and it's ALWAYS very expensive. . . . . . Total time it fix the car was about 300 hours.........not including purchasing correct parts

 

As I was saying, I think the biggest problem facing the big Classics is the cost and difficulty of keeping them on the road. 

 

 

[autoluke]

After sleeping for the past six months, my 1929 Packard started after two revolutions.

Needless to point out that all systems were in tune, AND the gasoline was not ethanol restricted.

[Restorer32]

A friend of mine worked as a salesman for a company that supplied dealerships with equipment. He told me dealerships were hiring computer savvy young people with little or no mechanical experience because it was easier to train a computer nerd to change parts than it was to train a mechanic to use a computer,

[trimacar]

42 minutes ago, Restorer32 said:

A friend of mine worked as a salesman for a company that supplied dealerships with equipment. He told me dealerships were hiring computer savvy young people with little or no mechanical experience because it was easier to train a computer nerd to change parts than it was to train a mechanic to use a computer,

 

I can understand that up to a point.  I was involved in the construction and startup of a125 million dollar manufacturing facility.  When we started hiring shop and line mechanics, one of the requirements was at least some familiarity with a computer, since there'd be work orders and data that was generated automatically.

 

I had one gentleman who'd worked for me before, and we interviewed him, I knew he was an excellent mechanic.  He told us he wanted nothing to do with computers, and said he'd never use them, had no interest at all.  He couldn't be hired by us, and missed the opportunity to go from a $13 an hour job in a run down plant to a $20 an hour job in a new, beautiful facility.

 

I can respect people's wants, but one has to change with the times.  I used to really enjoy mechanical drafting, on the table, but when AutoCAD came along I jumped on it.  It's not as tactile but it's much easier to change things with AutoCAD ......

 

 

[edinmass]

After six years of mechanical drawing in junior and senior high school I wasn’t  able to make the change.......I’m still old school, t square and a pencil. 

[alsancle]

3 minutes ago, edinmass said:

I’m still old school,

 

That is one way to describe you.

[edinmass]

6 minutes ago, alsancle said:

 

That is one way to describe you.

 

 

This is a family friendly site..........the accurate discription wouldn’t be allowed here..............

 

I’m fine with the truth........... as Popeye said........ “I am what I am.......”.    Profanity withheld. ?

[Steve_Mack_CT]

So Ed, what your saying is you are not likely to support a "CCCA modified" class for the crate chevy, at, ac, improved Classics? 

[edinmass]

STEVE........For some reason a few of my best friends say I'm a bit of a car snob. I have no idea why........... I mean really,   "My taste is simple, I like the best!" 

 

Truth be known, I'm a purist. Modified cars hold no interest for me, to each his own........  I don't run electronic ignition,  modern carbs, radial tires, 12 volt systems, just what the factory built works fine for me. Three items I add to ALMOST every car.

 

Battery cut off switch.

Halon fire extinguisher.

Electric fuel pump for priming. ( Modern fuel just boils out of the carbs on pre war cars when hot.)

 

Otherwise, bone stock is what I like. And not too many accessories to clutter up the lines of the car...... no extra mirrors, lights, do dads, ect.

 

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Hmm, my attempt to trip Ed's trigger is met with a calm and logical response. Bummer.

 

Off topic a bit, I largely agree but the strategery with the early Fords might include some beefing of brakes, Rocky Mt. Or simillar on a T, and cast drums on an A.  Other options exist  but that to me is a reasonable approach and nod to safety.

 

Which begs the question that is relevant to the post, somewhere in between fuel shut offs and cast drums and computer controlled crate power is a line.  Where is that line anyway?? ☺

 

 

Edited April 19, 2018 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)

[thegnu]

11 minutes ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:

 

Which begs the question that is relevant to the post, somewhere in between fuel shut offs and cast drums and computer controlled crate power is a line.  Where is that line anyway?? ☺

 

 

 I 've restored quite a few cars for customers an in my opinion on any given make or model if its considered "truly restored " there are no changes or additional items added that the factory did not intend including the color the vehicle .but most of the cars I have ever judged or restored are never going to be at pebble beach . carrying a fire extinguisher is just smart though .   personally I like to try an improve or hot trod the old ones I have or find , but don't get me wrong I would never "cut up" or change a good oem vehicle that could make an incredible original restored vehicle .  I also try an pass on especially to my sons who also enjoy the car culture never look down on some ones ride we are all in the same hobby appreciate the true restored car or truck as much as the modified .  pass on the interest to any one you can . I let kids an adults regularly sit in an get pics in on an all over my wrecker an it will be the same with my buick .

[60FlatTop]

1 hour ago, edinmass said:

STEVE........For some reason a few of my best friends say I'm a bit of a car snob.

 

I have diagnosed my own situation more as a form of arrogance. I have never had an interest in the lesser, utilitarian, cars that might benefit from modifications. I prefer the better by design.

 

Ohhhh, what's that word they use after they say arrogant, it escapes me at the moment.

 

Bernie

[Grimy]

40 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

Ohhhh, what's that word they use after they say arrogant, it escapes me at the moment.

Either (1) seven letters beginning with A, or (2) seven letters beginning with B with an ale named after it, i.e., Arrogant Bastard Ale.  Either will be correct....

[60FlatTop]

Nah, what do you use after you drink the ale? 5 letters, but a handful.

[Grimy]

8 minutes ago, 60FlatTop said:

Nah, what do you use after you drink the ale? 5 letters, but a handful.

What is this, Wheel of Fortune?  I'd like to buy a vowel.....

[charlier]

On 4/18/2018 at 3:31 PM, chistech said:

I too am starting to see younger people buying old cars. I myself am not considered old enough (56) at times by others I talk with because I restore 30’s GM cars. I’ve literally had many older car lovers ask me what I’m doing with my 31’ Chevy ( original condition) that I should be into rods or muscle cars. What I’ve started to notice is the mechanically inclined 20ish out there (yes, not a lot of them), like the VWs and the Porsche’s, etc., but can’t afford them because even an old Golf has gotten to a crazy amount of collector dollar value. But, with model Ts and As going for as little as $3000 running and drivable, they’re buying those and driving them around with these big grins on their faces and are often the ones finding a group of old timers and working their way into their conversations. 

 

In the late 1990s and early 2000s a lot of young people were buying old, water cooled VWs from the 70s to late 80s because they were cheap and parts were plentiful. They would lower them, install different wheels and tires, swap in different engines and transmissions, bolt on other engine items and do body modifications. One thing that has changed is that VW owners now are doing these modifications to newer VWs because of the lack of older VWs to purchase at cheap prices. One thing that has not changed is that there are fewer and fewer VW owners are actually doing the work themselves. They just write a check.

 

Back then and even now I have younger people approach me and tell me that if they had one of my VWs they would do this modification or that modification. I usually tell them that I am into preserving the history of the car by keeping it all original. Then I usually get a few funny looks. What most of them do not realize is that modifying one of these vehicles from it's original condition easily drops it's value by a HUGE  amount since it is then just an old, modified VW (in some cases just a hack job & mess that does not even run right). Some of my VW friends from back in the day realized this and only did modifications that could be reversed and kept all the original parts. When they sold the cars they would put them back to stock and sold the modification parts separately. In almost EVERY, SINGLE case they came out ahead financially. Those that did not usually lost a lot of $$$ selling the modified vehicle.

 

You are absolutely right in that 1970s, 80s and early 90s watercooled VWs in original condition have increase in value. The increase in value for a #1 level car would shock the living daylights out of some forum members here. The lack of OEM parts for these vehicles and the fact that no one makes 3rd party parts for them and the number of modified cars from this era (ie no used original parts)  makes restoring them to original condition VERY difficult. 

 

I suppose the moral of this story is that younger people looking to get into the old car hobby should be careful when it comes to certain brands of vehicles from the mid  1970s to early 1990s. While their values are increasing the lack of spare parts makes owning them, keeping them on the road and restoring them a challenge to say the least.

Edited April 20, 2018 by charlier (see edit history)

[poci1957]

1 hour ago, charlier said:

What most of them do not realize is that modifying one of these vehicles from it's original condition easily drops it's value by a HUGE  amount since it is then just an old, modified VW (in some cases just a hack job & mess that does not even run right).

 

I suppose the moral of this story is that younger people looking to get into the old car hobby should be careful when it comes to certain brands of vehicles from the mid  1970s to early 1990s. While their values are increasing the lack of spare parts makes owning them, keeping them on the road and restoring them a challenge to say the least.

 

I think charlier’s observation about the resale of modified cars applies to our topic not only in 1970-90s cars but in general.  We here are less just about money than most but it is a factor in how many people can participate and what happens to the cars.  Experienced hobbyists have always known that a car that has not been “messed with” is worth a premium over one that has a cheap repaint, incorrect interior or mechanical alterations.  It is just easier to deal with when you don’t have to correct someone else’s mistake first.

 

IMO most poor backyard repairs are from someone being too lazy and/or cheap to do a proper job.  It gets worse when modifying “creativity” comes into play.  In all cases such a problem is to be avoided or at least deducted for and I think upcoming hobbyists with less mechanical experience will be quite aware of this—it is enough of a problem on an old car and a real issue on more complicated later models like charlier says.  Of course the bargain hunter in me scours the ads looking for this as a  buying opportunity for one who can fix the problems but even that usually backfires (on me anyway) in being more cost or work than expected.        

[Matt Harwood]

It's been my experience that there are a great many enthusiasts who just don't know any better or think it doesn't matter when it comes to doing a job properly. I'm sorry, but there are probably 10,000 people on this forum, give or take, and I bet 6000 of them are hacks or own cars that are wrong in ways that they don't understand, can't fix, or don't even see. That isn't an insult to any of the folks here, but we can't be a perfect enclave of experts with perfect cars that are 100% right while the rest of the hobby is filled with problem cars that don't work properly. I sit near the entrance to the local car cruise so I can see the cars coming in and I'd say a good 60% of them run fair to poor. You can just hear it in the exhaust. Sure, a lot of guys confuse running rough with "race car" and loud mufflers conceal a lot of issues, but you can always hear that snuffly sound of a car that's out of tune. Go ahead and try it yourself--listen to the cars at a show as they drive by. Very few will sound healthy. 

 

I even have cars come to my shop owned by experienced hobbyists and they have issues that the owner didn't even know about or understand, but are glaringly obvious to me. They just live with it or ignore it or don't even know it's a problem because the car is old and they don't have a frame of reference but assume that old cars are inferior. They're often aghast when I point out these obvious things and/or hand them a bill for fixing them. 

 

So we have to start from the point that most hobbyists--and it has been true back to day one--don't really know how to make their cars work right, even if they want to. I sincerely hope all you guys are the exception, but the numbers and statistics don't bear that out. Hopefully you're learning and you'll rectify the situation as you learn more, but there just can't be this many mediocre cars running around, showing up in my shop and every other dealer's shop in the country, and being an anomaly rather than the norm. Most cars, at every price level, have problems that can easily be solved but either due to ignorance or finances, they never get fixed. It's OK if you can't afford it, but it's not OK to not know what's what. If you're going to do this hobby, do it right.

 

My point? We can't dump on young people for not knowing how to fix things because most guys in this hobby don't know how to fix their cars, either. And to their credit, young people at least understand when things aren't right and research how to fix it, even if it's just going on YouTube to see what to do. We celebrate the DIY guy, but if you're a DIY guy who doesn't know what he's doing or believes "good enough" is good enough or, worst case, you don't even know you have something that needs fixing, that, to me, is worse than a young kid not knowing where to start.

 

And that's what leads to cars being disassembled and filled with crate motors. A crate motor doesn't need tweaking or adjusting, the wiring harness is plug-and-play, and the computer does the tuning. Hook it up to a battery and a fuel pump, and an LS1 crate motor will run perfectly the first time you turn the key. Like so many things in our world, we've made the hardware smarter and easier to use, which has resulted in a much dumber end-user. Repairing cars is the same way--easier to fix leads to mechanics without the brain power to actually solve problems.

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Same rules apply regardless of era.  A dead nuts perfect 32 highboy thats well done in all areas with the right stuff (fans of these cars know what that is) is going to cost dearly, and sell.  A cobbled together car is a very hard sell indeed.  They seem to be everywhere.  I do wish rodders would take a rescue and correct mentality to them, but they reallize the nice original or restoration is by far the better start.  I think some of it, especially on Full Classics, is in your face, but a lot is simple economics.  They do not want the POS built by another rodder because the corrections are more work than starting clean.  ?

[1912Staver]

If you are talking about cobbled together 32 Highboys that the owner can't sell, send one my way. As long as it is a bargain priced steel car I would like to give it a home. Around here people ask a kings ransom for a trashed 32 roadster door . At a swap meet local to me last year a guy wanted $5000.00 for a ROACHED 29 Ford roadster body shell with a bit of repro sheet metal. And several people were taking interest. Tons of interest in my neck of the woods but little worthwhile raw material.

 

Greg in Canada

Edited April 20, 2018 by 1912Staver (see edit history)

[Steve_Mack_CT]

Greg, I get it on the 32 in particular.  I mean the acres of prewar loads that are either very poor finished rods or baskets.  Doing things right is expensive.  When one adds engineering and taste involved in modded cars the chances of blundering are tripled, imho.  The next rodder doesnt want those cars which makes them come our way...

[thegnu]

22 minutes ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:

  I mean the acres of prewar loads that are either very poor finished rods or baskets.  Doing things right is expensive.  When one adds engineering and taste involved in modded cars the chances of blundering are tripled, imho.  The next rodder doesnt want those cars which makes them come our way...

 in a nut shell , not a single one of any of us has  done a perfectly restored  or even perfectly modded car or truck , there are many out there who are better at it than others , but in truth the best any of us can hope for is to never stop learning how to do it better .  I know for a fact the first restoration I undertook was not perfect , but the next one was a bit closer  an so on .  I personally still wouldn't cut up a nicely restored car or truck , an shove in a crate motor just because its easier . I have a prime example .  a customer ,in the early 1990's who became a good friend found a 70 chevelle big block car , numbers matching  !  Well  the car was so rotten an had many many of the wrong owners . after my initial inspection I recommended he not try to do the full restore to oem , ( even then its cost would have gone WAY OVER THE TOP) but suggested he mod the car . he definitely considered both ideas for almost a week , then gave me his answer an we built him a respectable street an strip car that came well under what an oem restoration would have cost .

[trimacar]

Over the last two days, I've spent some time pulling rods out of my'38 Packard Super 8 engine.  Why?  Because the '38 block is a mess, bad metallurgy that can't be fixed, and I'm going to put a '39 block on the bottom end of the '38 engine.  By the by, the bottom end of the '38 engine is fully restored and in fine shape.

 

I would say that it would have been much easier to rip it all out and put in a new crate engine.  I mean, gee, you have to deal with all these old parts that don't like to come apart, and are going to take some old time machining to make work, so why go to all the trouble?

 

Well, because, deep down, and even on the surface, I love it.  I like making original stuff work like it's supposed to, I really like original and am somewhat of a purist.  You appreciate the engineering that went into the cars, and you feel a connection with the car when new....

 

But, guess I'm offering it up here, I've gone over to the dark side.  Yep, my 1938 Packard is going to have a newer, more modern, 1939 block on it......whew, what's next, a modern cigar lighter?

[SC38dls]

Don’t ruin the 38 Packard with the smell of a cigar forget the lighter. 

Dave S 

[trimacar]

34 minutes ago, SC38DLS said:

Don’t ruin the 38 Packard with the smell of a cigar forget the lighter. 

Dave S 

Ha!  Then my good friend Rob has to respect this request.

 

I was at his place once, and he, as usual, smoking a cigar.  Funny looking ashtray, I did a double take.  He smiled and said "yep, V-12 Pierce hubcap, makes a great ashtray"....knowing my love for anything Pierce.

 

He did give it to me, eventually.......but not before I cringed numerous times over ashes in it...

 

He now has a replacement, the millionth Dodge transmission ashtray award or something like that, which I found and gave to him!

[SC38dls]

You and your friend should take that seriously. Cigar smells over power that wonderful new car smell. You wouldn’t want that to happen to a 38 Buick restored to original condition would you? 

Dave S 

[John_S_in_Penna]

2 hours ago, trimacar said:

Over the last two days, I've spent some time pulling rods out of my'38 Packard Super 8 engine.  Why?  Because the '38 block is a mess, bad metallurgy that can't be fixed, and I'm going to put a '39 block on the bottom end of the '38 engine. 

 

I talked to the Packard club's 1938 Roster Keeper once.

He told me (referring to the Super 8 engines) that there

are 2 different kinds of engine blocks:

(1)  Those that are cracked;

(2)  Those that are going to crack.

Which kind do you have, David?

 

I don't see much problem with what you're doing,

since the original was deficient and you're changing

it by only one year. 

 

Is my statement of the Roster Keeper's assessment of

'38 Packard engines correct?

Edited April 21, 2018 by John_S_in_Penna (see edit history)

[trimacar]

2 hours ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

Is my statement of the Roster Keeper's assessment of

'38 Packard engines correct?

Yes, that is a correct statement.  For some reason, the metallurgy was incorrect in the 1938 blocks.  They develop cracks between the valve seats.  This problem, in a normal engine, can be fixed.  However, as mentioned, the metal itself is defective, and it crystalizes in such a way that it can't be welded and it can't be drilled and tapped (to "sew" it back together).  There are '38 Super 8 blocks out there that have had serious repairs, but in my case, the block cannot be repaired.  It was inspected by one of the best metal repair guys in the country, and he said it's junk.  Thus, the '39 block, which I found thanks to a member of this forum, is going in my car.  The 39 320 engine had better cooling passages, and is a direct replacement for the 38 block.

 

I'll end up with a '37 Super 8 engine to sell, along with a very nice manifold assembly from a 33-34 Super 8 engine.  I'm going to keep the 38 block and the 39 bottom end.

 

Speaking of the Roster Keeper, in the 1980's, living in Louisiana, I owned three 1938 Super 8's, the 1604 convertible coupe I have now, a 1603 sedan, and a club sedan which I think was also a 1604.  At the time, the Roster Keeper was amazed, as there were some other 1938 Super 8's in Louisiana (including another 1604 convertible coupe owned by Herman Van Os in Shreveport)...in fact, there were more 1938 Super 8's in Louisiana at the time than ANY other state! 

[1935Packard]

On 4/19/2018 at 1:15 PM, Steve_Mack_CT said:

Hmm, my attempt to trip Ed's trigger is met with a calm and logical response. Bummer.

 

Off topic a bit, I largely agree but the strategery with the early Fords might include some beefing of brakes, Rocky Mt. Or simillar on a T, and cast drums on an A.  Other options exist  but that to me is a reasonable approach and nod to safety.

 

Which begs the question that is relevant to the post, somewhere in between fuel shut offs and cast drums and computer controlled crate power is a line.  Where is that line anyway?? ☺

 

 

 

I've wondered about this in particular for a Cord 810 or 812, as well as for an XK120.  It seems like there are a few mods that are popular among club members for these cars that are just really useful to make the cars drivable in light of their original weaknesses. To each his own, of course, but I tend to think that popular mods among members of the marque club are usually ok.

[alsancle]

The biggest mod with the 810/812 Cord is the Richardson universal joints for the front wheel drive.  The originals require stuffing grease inside the boots often.  This mod is hidden for the most part.    I will say that my dad drove back and forth from Massachusetts to Auburn twice with his original axles having not a single issue.

[trimacar]

7 minutes ago, alsancle said:

The biggest mod with the 810/812 Cord is the Richardson universal joints for the front wheel drive.

 

Yes, this seems to be totally accepted as a modification by the ACD people.  One has to remember that while the concept of a constant velocity joint (as in the front wheel drive of a Cord) was understood, the design wasn't perfected at the time.  My '37 has the original, worn, joints, which are fine for normal driving, but you really understand what "constant velocity" means when you turn a sharp corner at low speeds.  I won't say the car lurches, but there's a noticeable difficulty when the joints are sharply turned.

 

The other popular Cord modification has to do with the transmission, there are a few "tricks" to rebuilding them, including a magical wide washer that helps the gears stay engaged.

 

As mentioned, the mods help but are barely, if at all, noticeable....

[Steve_Mack_CT]

The collective knowledge of a group of marque specialists is tough to beat.  A real positive newcomers have today, is not only club, but internet groups for most anything rolling under its own power.  Finding the answer to an obscure issue in minutes is still a relatively new development in the hobby.

 

I agree mods with marque group support are definately worth a look.  I dont care what the era or marque is, they all have issues, and these guys know the little tricks.  Easier access to this info is a positive.  Future does not have to be all doom and gloom for our prewar cars. ☺

Edited April 21, 2018 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history)

[kingrudy]

The topic of your thread got me to do some thinking. I consider myself more of a caretaker, than an owner of my '40 Buick as it has been on this earth longer than I have and I hope it will be around long after I am gone. That having been said, I am worried about the future of this hobby as it doesn't seem as though many young people are entering this hobby. I had an experience the other day looking for a passenger side door latch that may have some bearing on this concern. The experience went like this: I bought a door latch from a salvage yard in another state for $75 plus shipping (I thought this was fair). The part was removed with a cutting torch and this made it unusable, so I returned it for a full refund. I spoke to a member who said he could locate one and I am still working with him. I then contacted a salvage yard in Idaho who said that they had the part and they would sell it for $200 plus shipping. Meanwhile I have spoken to two sources who may have this part. I do not begrudge anyone making a living. We all do what we can to get by in this world, but brings into question what is a fair price for a part on a car that is nearly 80 years old. I don't have the answer to this question, but it seems to me that many young people could be getting priced out of this market.

[60FlatTop]

If the old people die off and the young people have less interest the market will adjust. To heir is human.

 

In the meantime, you lubricated those other three latches before you posted to the Forum, didn't you?

Bernie

[kingrudy]

Yes, I took apart the drivers door latch and soaked it in Vapo-Rust overnight and rinsed it in hot water the next day. Air dried the mechanism and lubed all moving parts. Looks and works like new.

[pmhowe]

I liked the statement, “Yes, I spent a shiatload of time tweaking, tuning, fussing over that Cadillac, but now that it's set up, it has stayed that way and has never once let me down in more than 10,000 miles of driving. Not. Once.”

 

That’s a great goal, and I am making it mine, for my car.

 

I know it will be a lot of work, but I ask that you spend the time to list most of what you have done, had to do, and continue to do with your 1929 Cadillac. It will help me - and lots of other owners of old cars - who have the same goal. Also, what a great primer for new owners of old cars, who might have similar aspirations. 

 

This is directed mostly – but not entirely -  at Matt Harwood, who made the statement. Others should chime in. It could make this thread the best old car thread ever - especially for helping the future of the hobby.

 

Phil 

Edited May 16, 2018 by pmhowe (see edit history)

[pmhowe]

Since I’m asking for input from all of you, I thought I should contribute, also. Here is my starting list, in order of what I have done:

 

The car ran when I received it, and I drove it a quarter of a mile to my house. Then I

Admired car.

Checked engine oil.

Checked water level in radiator, tested antifreeze – both good.

Checked for water leaks, checked hoses for integrity - all almost new.

Checked pulleys for any wobble - none.

 

I checked ammeter and found system not to be charging.

Cleaned all accessible electrical connections. Solved charging problem. Filled battery with distilled water.

Found brake lights on all the time, adjusted brake light mechanical switch. 

Didn’t check brake fluid. (Mechanical brakes.) 

Performed undercarriage examination, looking for loose nuts, bolts, missing or broken parts, getting familiar with car. 

Went over body, tightening and, in some cases, replacing screws. I use stainless screws, although maybe bronze would be better. I don’t like steel screws with wood. 

Made a note to shim one door hinge, where right rear door was dropping very slightly. Could also be weak screws.

Pulled spark plugs, examined for color, adjustment, and fouling. Plugs good. 

Adjusted accelerator return spring. (Wouldn’t return to proper idle.) May have to replace spring.

Adjusted tire pressure. Steering was heavy. Tire pressure was 20psi. Should have been 35 psi.

Oiled distributor and a few other points where I could find oil cups.

Put a little bit of Seafoam into gas tank, hoping to clean any sludge in carbs. 

 

Planned to do:

Pull brake drums, check for wear.

Change fluids.

Grease everything – still sorting out best water pump grease.

Thoroughly check wiring. 

Drive locally often.

Maybe take a modest long tour (<100 mi).

 

 

 

Edited May 16, 2018 by pmhowe
Correct auto spell's choosing Seafood (see edit history)