Windshield washer system - what should be there on a 64?

[Chewbacca]

Hi all

 

Another one for you. It is a legal requirement in the UK to have a functioning windscreen washer system. At the moment, my 64 has a plastic bottle with a black cap with a nozzle at 90 degrees, attached to absolutely nothing. It looks like it must draw from the top but if so, what parts am I missing?

 

Any help gratefully received.

[Seafoam65]

Originally, the nipple on the cap worked in duo with a nipple on the inside of the cap that allows a hose to go from there to the bottom of the bottle.

This hose had a screen plugged into the end of it to keep debris out of the pump. The hose that was attached to the outside nipple on the cap went to a mechanical washer pump that was bolted to the front of the wiper motor that is a nightmare to access and work on and is very unreliable and doesn't squirt very well. If I were you I would buy an aftermarket universal electric pump that installs in series in the rubber line coming from the washer bottle cap, and then wire it to the original wiring going to the mechanical pump so that you can operate it via your original washer switch on the dash. If you

put it in the hose and make the hose long enough to tuck in behind the inner fender, you can just pull the hose and pump out from behind the inner fender to service it very easily and when hidden behind the fenderwell nobody will know what you have done. This is what I would do if it were my car. Of course the hose leaving the pump would need to be attached to the windshield washer nozzles in the cowl trim piece in front of the windshield.

Edited April 17, 2018 by Seafoam65 (see edit history)

[Pat Curran]

Are the chrome plated washer jets still mounted on the cowl vents?

[Chewbacca]

10 minutes ago, Pat Curran said:

Are the chrome plated washer jets still mounted on the cowl vents?

 

Yes they are

[RivNut]

I'm going to install a small electric pump like the one that was on my 2004 Jeep GC.  It fits into a hole in the bottom of the washer bottle.  I'll use the same wire that goes to the original pump to activate it.  The thing I like about it is 1) it's not under the fender and 2) it shoots a stream rather than pulsing, 3) it will  e out of site under the original bottle (which will require me drilling a hole in the bottom)

[Riviera63]

1 hour ago, RivNut said:

I'm going to install a small electric pump like the one that was on my 2004 Jeep GC.  It fits into a hole in the bottom of the washer bottle.  I'll use the same wire that goes to the original pump to activate it.  The thing I like about it is 1) it's not under the fender and 2) it shoots a stream rather than pulsing, 3) it will  e out of site under the original bottle (which will require me drilling a hole in the bottom)

 

I have an electric washer pump on my car that was installed on the firewall by a previous owner. I love it for all of the reasons Ed said, it is not under the fender, it shoots a steady stream of fluid and it uses the same wiring. It is reliable and if it should fail it is very inexpensive to replace. I am pretty much a stock purist at heart but, in this case I will err on the side of ease of repair/installation, reliability and safety. It is small and not very noticeable. If I got ambitious I could move it to a location where it would be hidden. I have attached a picture showing mine. It is circled in red and the blue line shows the line going from the pump to the washer fluid bottle. Another line then would go from the pump, split and go to the chrome washer jets. The second picture shows this. I hope this is of help.

 

Bill

 

 

 

Edited April 17, 2018 by Riviera63
Revise (see edit history)

[RivNut]

Here are some pictures of the Jeep (Chrysler?) washer pump.

 

This picture shows the entire unit, the pump motor is in my fingers.  The black part on the top is what fits into the bottom of the reservoir, it also encompasses a filter.  Between the two pieces of white plastic is a grooved washer that fits into the hole in the reservoir (which you'll need to dril.)  On the bottom toward the left are two terminals, + and -.  The + you connect to the wire coming from the washer switch. As long as you hold the plunger switch in, the motor runs and produces a steady stream of water. The other terminalwill require a new ground wire.  If you pull this from a car in a salvage yard, get the pigtail too.  The white plastic tube on the bottom right is where you connect your washer hose.  Run that hose to a tee then run hoses to your squirters on the valance.

 

Here's a picture of the unit with the part that sets in the reservoir separated from the motor which is on the outside bottom of the reservoir. They're threaded and screw together.  If you install one of these, make sure the hole you drill in the bottom of the reservoir is directly under the cap.  You'll need to be able to get a socket on an extension down to the bottom to screw the intake/filter to the pump body.

 

[Chewbacca]

Thanks for the replies fellas.

 

Given the scarcity of Jeep/Chrysler cars (and indeed scrapyards in general) in the UK. I'll probably go with the firewall mounted option.

 

Cheers

Dave

[RivNut]

Local jobbers have these for about $15 US.  TAAP #8-090, and around here the pump comes with a pigtail.

[first64riv]

On 4/17/2018 at 12:47 PM, Pat Curran said:

Are the chrome plated washer jets still mounted on the cowl vents?

Does anyone have pictures of the jets?  I just noticed mine were missing and I'd like to acquire them or something similar.

Found one... 

Edited April 19, 2018 by first64riv (see edit history)