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Garysriv

New Topic: Old Topic - Clamshells

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So in between trying to get this old Riv started I'm finding myself exploring other systems on the car.  The clamshells don't work.  Didn't really expect them to though.  I did do a few exploratory things.  I undid the arms at each end to see if the actual levers on the clams were free, they actually opened up with no force at all.  In the process I noted that the two wire plug to the motor harness behind the grill was unplugged.  Could I be that lucky?  No.

 

Plugged it in, still nothing.  Then I just left it plugged in and went about some other stuff.  As I was playing with something else I heard random clicking every few seconds, so I unplugged it, no more clicking.  Plugged it back in, more clicking, so I unplugged it again.  Then I got underneath the car and thought maybe I'll take the motor out and test it.  When I touched it it was warm, not hot but a little warmer than the outside temp, so current was going there.  I didn't get it out the front, and I'll take this forums word that it can be done even on an air car but I'd already been in the garage for four hours and figured someone would be looking for me soon so I called it a day. 

 

I did see a posting by Seafoam about relays, so later I went out to see if I could see them.  I did see the main one, but I didn't see the auxiliary one, so I'm wondering if this was an early car without the aux.  I'm guessing if that's the case I should add one in?  All the wires are there from the factory, just a matter of re-routing?

 

Sorry to beat a dead horse....

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                       You've got the same problem I had when I got my car......the limiter switch for closing the clamshells has gotten out of adjustment

and that has burned up the motor due to the motor never shutting off and trying to close the visors even after they are closed. You will need to

get your motor rebuilt, buy a rebuilt one and send yours in as a core, or purchase a brand new redesigned one. The new ones for sale don't bolt

to the radiator support but instead mount to the bolts holding on the front license plate bracket. On my car I bought a rebuilt motor on ebay

for 249.00. If your car is an early car it has no auxiliary relay and you would be wise to put one on the car. For a slick stock appearing installation if I was you I would source the auxiliary relay wiring from a car being parted out from one of the many early Riviera vendors who advertise in the Riview. If you

read my past articles on the forum, they will walk you through how the relays are wired, how to make a new main relay work as an auxiliary relay, and how to remove and replace your headlamp motor, and how to adjust the clamshells and the motor switches. Anything you don't understand after reading my articles, feel free to PM me with any questions.

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10 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:

.....If you

read my past articles on the forum, they will walk you through how the relays are wired, how to make a new main relay work as an auxiliary relay, and how to remove and replace your headlamp motor, and how to adjust the clamshells and the motor switches. Anything you don't understand after reading my articles, feel free to PM me with any questions.

Ugh, worst possible scenario.  Well, I guess that's not true, it's all there....

I guess my impression of adding the auxiliary relay was too simple.  My impression was everything going to the main relay was already in all factory harnesses, and I just had to interrupt them with a second relay and reconfig the wiring.  Didn't realize I'd need other wiring.  Eventually it'll all make sense I guess.   Appreciate the offer of help, I will most likely be in touch when this becomes a more pressing issue.....

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2 minutes ago, Seafoam65 said:

I just bumped up my articles to this first page......read them thoroughly.

Will do, and print out!

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  Best to start with the 28 page summary Buick Service Bulletin from `65 which explains the early, VERY early builds with 1 relay and the subsequent campaign to convert all `65 Rivs to the 2 relay system. Are you a member of the ROA?? If so, you are entitled to, via your membership, a copy of said bulletin which I can send to your inbox. PM me with your email address

  Tom Mooney   ROA Tech Advisor and Librarian

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On ‎4‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 10:42 PM, 1965rivgs said:

  Best to start with the 28 page summary Buick Service Bulletin from `65 which explains the early, VERY early builds with 1 relay and the subsequent campaign to convert all `65 Rivs to the 2 relay system. Are you a member of the ROA?? If so, you are entitled to, via your membership, a copy of said bulletin which I can send to your inbox. PM me with your email address

  Tom Mooney   ROA Tech Advisor and Librarian

 

I'm not a member, but interested in joining.  Is there a link to the membership page?  Then, yes, I'd like the bulletin sent to me.  Thanks Tom.

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The website address is www.rivowners.org

 

On the home page, in the left column, is a yellow highlighted "Join/Renew" button.  Pressing that will take you to the proper page. On that page is choice of links for your payment preference. Clicking on one of those will get you the appropriate form.

 

Ed

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3 hours ago, RivNut said:

The website address is www.rivowners.org

 

On the home page, in the left column, is a yellow highlighted "Join/Renew" button.  Pressing that will take you to the proper page. On that page is choice of links for your payment preference. Clicking on one of those will get you the appropriate form.

 

Ed

 I'm In!

member.jpg

  • Thanks 1

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4 minutes ago, Garysriv said:

 I'm In!

member.jpg

Hope this means we'll be seeing you at our annual event in June.  Overland Park, KS this year.  OPKS is part of the greater Kansas City Metro area.

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Just now, RivNut said:

Hope this means we'll be seeing you at our annual event in June.  Overland Park, KS this year.  OPKS is part of the greater Kansas City Metro area.

Well, if I am I', pretty sure I won't be driving a Riviera!  Have yet to get the bugger started.  Hints if firing, but not started.  I should make a separate post of what I've done so far, see if anybody has any ideas I haven't though of.....

 

 

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There is usually a good number of members who attend without driving their Rivieras.  I know that I've been to at least four meets where I didn't drive one.  Hey, if you don't drive, it gives you that much more time to visit with other owners about their cars and steal ideas from them.

 

Ed

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On 4/16/2018 at 4:07 PM, Seafoam65 said:

I just bumped up my articles to this first page......read them thoroughly.

Since I tend to get a bit forceful with things in tight spaces I added an insurance policy.  Piece of sheet steel over the a.c. condenser.  Got the motor out.  Applied voltage, it tries to go both directions but seems frozen.  Anyway, progress!

0421181230.jpg

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1 hour ago, Garysriv said:

Since I tend to get a bit forceful with things in tight spaces I added an insurance policy.  Piece of sheet steel over the a.c. condenser.  Got the motor out.  Applied voltage, it tries to go both directions but seems frozen.  Anyway, progress!

0421181230.jpg

Not trying to be a smart ass but are you using the jumper wires correctly? Hot (+) should be connected to one side of the connector or the other, depending on crank arm position, while the motor case itself should be grounded. Sometimes folks try to connect the hot to one side of the connector and ground to the other terminal in the connector.

  Tom

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2 hours ago, 1965rivgs said:

Not trying to be a smart ass but are you using the jumper wires correctly? Hot (+) should be connected to one side of the connector or the other, depending on crank arm position, while the motor case itself should be grounded. Sometimes folks try to connect the hot to one side of the connector and ground to the other terminal in the connector.

  Tom

Haha, your not a smart ass!  No, I have a small 12v power supply and grounded to frame of motor n tried each terminal spade separately.  Saw a video couple weeks ago of a guy testing one, otherwise I probably would have.  One interesting thing, the motor is frozen in a position where one of the switches is closed, but it tries both directions anyway.....

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