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'64 Riviera Floor Pan Patching (with Acura CL Seats)

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Been working on fixing the floors around the front seats in my '64 and installing  some 97-99 Acura CL buckets.  They're mixed together since I don't want to repair the floors only to cut things out or restore complicated features that aren't used anymore. 
Here's how bad it was when I started with it:
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First thing I did was get a spot weld cutter and start drilling out the spot welds on the passengers side between the under floor braces and the floor itself.  Other than some large concentrations of welds near the seat mounts that went pretty smoothly as long as I didn't get too aggressive too quickly with the cutter and have it skip out of the center punch on the weld.  Got both bad sections of the floor out in about 2hrs of work with other guys standing around talking about stupid stuff we've done in cars as part of a guys group that meets in my garage on Thursdays.
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Interesting that the seat mount on the front is mostly intact but the underfloor brace is completely rusted out on the end while the rear seat brace is basically gone but the brace is pitted but otherwise fine.  We suspect the reason the braces rot out is the drain hole is not the low spot and water collected in the end even worse than the debris getting trapped would have.
 
I've been working on mounting the drivers side seat since I need it first to bleed the brakes.  Here's some pictures of the seats
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My first attempt at mounting the seat using the front of the kickup in the floor as a seat mount for those 45ºmounts with a bent bracket in the rear ended up too far forward and too high.  I was mostly comfortable but only with the seat all the way back and down.  No room to adjust beyond that.
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After a major screw up where I drilled a full set of mounting holes 1.25in too over and ended up off center from the steering wheel I regrouped and came up with a new mount plan that gets me seated pretty much exactly where I want.  I've got maybe 0.75in of rearward travel from comfortable for me and even at full up on the seat my head doesn't hit the headliner unless I put the seat back full upright.  Quite happy.  Need to get some 0.25 plate to be happy with the mount strength but the basic design is intact and even uses the original mounting points for the front.  The rear I'll have to make a new version of that bent metal bracket but it should be more than strong enough.
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Those ought to be a lot more comfortable than stock.  I did the same thing but I used Chrysler Sebring Conv. seats since they also have seat belts.

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20 minutes ago, rapom said:

Those ought to be a lot more comfortable than stock.  I did the same thing but I used Chrysler Sebring Conv. seats since they also have seat belts.

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I had a set of these Sebring seats but decided not to use them because of the complicated electrical restraint system.  The seat belts are only allowed to be moved when there's 12V applied to a solenoid.  That solenoid is connected to a motion sensor in the console and the door jamb switches.  I'm curious as to how you incorporated these features or what you did to eliminate them and still have the belts functional?

 

Ed

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I have seen on forums were the Sebring seats needed the computer and I have also seen where they didn’t.  All I hooked up was the power wire so the seat adjustments worked.  I did test my seat belts by slamming on the brakes to see if they held and they did.  

The article where you needed computer was on a Corvair site.

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Did I spot a Gear Vendors OD unit in there. Be interested in your experience and opinion with this unit!

cheers

Rodney 😀😀😀😀😀😀

On 16/04/2018 at 6:48 AM, rapom said:

Seats are about 3” from console

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GV installation is not for the faint of heart.  Major floor hump and frame surgery is needed to use it.  My car is a daily driver rat rod that sees a lot of highway miles so I had to do something.  Not sure if I would want to do it to a nice riv.  That being said.  It's nice to have the  extra gear to knock down the 3.07 gear when doing 75 mph.  Here's a link with some pics.  I solved the shudder on takeoff problem a couple of months ago by lowering the carrier bearing pad inside the x-frame about 1".  

 

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Edited by rapom (see edit history)
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