Lubriplate 110 and alternatives

[Summershandy]

I just changed out my rear axle seals and before reinstalling the axle shafts the manual states, "coat recess in axle housing, where bearing seats with Lubriplate 110. If I can't find any locally, what would be close to equivalent? Something along the lines of a brake lubricant? 

[poci1957]

Summershady, once again your question has educated me too.  1950s Pontiac service manuals always reference Lubriplate and I have never seen that and always substituted common white Lithium grease in spray or tube form.  A quick Google shows that there actually is a Lubriplate company still in business at www.lubriplate.com .  Their website says Lubriplate 110 is a white calcium grease. 

 

So then I Googled “white calcium grease” to compare it to white lithium and was sent to www.machinerylubrication.com for a little comparison.  They say the calcium is better but I would say the lithium is still an acceptable common substitute, although I do intend to read on.   Good luck with yours, Todd C

 

[Spinneyhill]

It looks like a grease with few additives including anti-wear additives. The only ingredients listed on the SDS are Distillates (naphthenic), zinc oxide and zinc bis (dibutyldithiocarbamate). It is NLGI 2.5 - most chassis grease is NLGI 2. The brochure says it is for brakes - the adjuster and where the shoes rest on the backing plate.

 

They say it is anti-corrosive. Most greases these days say they are anti-corrosive, because they have additives for that job. But they also contain molybdenum disulphide, which is corrosive so they need those additives. When these greases dry out, the anti-corrosive additives don't work so well any more but the molybdenum disulphide does continue being corrosive.

 

This is a naphthenic hydrotreated oil. In general, naphthenic oils have a medium or low viscosity index (i.e. they change viscosity more at higher temperatures) hence should be used in low temperature applications (this one says less than 150 ^oF = 65 ^oC).

 

So Lubriplate 110 is a useful grease for a place where it will rarely be accessed or topped up or replaced to keep it fluid, and the temperature remains fairly low.

Edited April 12, 2018 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Summershandy]

3 hours ago, poci1957 said:

They say the calcium is better but I would say the lithium is still an acceptable common substitute

That made me curious too, as I have a tub of Lithium I use and have had for years. Never stop learning Todd...never stop learning. How does Spinneyhill spell those words? I can't even pronounce them!

[poci1957]

4 minutes ago, Summershandy said:

How does Spinneyhill spell those words? I can't even pronounce them!

 

I know, I was so impressed I would like to ask him another lubricant question but am too intimidated!

 

(Spinneyhill, if you are reading, I am comparing Lucas Red & Tacky and/or Green grease to regular old chassis grease, are you familiar?)

[Summershandy]

One thing for sure....I ain't buying a pail of the stuff cuz it's all I'm seeing at the moment!

[Guest]

In the early 60's when I was working in parts at a GM dealership we received a bulletin that said to only use Lubriplate 110 for repacking "NEW" wheel bearings.  After having several dozen failed bearings within a few weeks we disregarded the bulletin and went back to "real" wheel bearing grease.  It turned out the bulletin should have said Lubriplate wheel bearing grease not Lubriplate 110.  The stock on hand was sold to the staff at a great discount.  Most of us used it in bicycles and such and had no problems at all.  Certainly not the proper grease for front wheel bearings.

[Spinneyhill]

4 hours ago, poci1957 said:

(Spinneyhill, if you are reading, I am comparing Lucas Red & Tacky and/or Green grease to regular old chassis grease, are you familiar?)

 

No. But I have the www at my finger tips! Let's see..

 

Compare the data sheets. They are similar but green has a higher viscosity index so would be better with a wide temperature range. Red base oil is more viscous. Green has a 1b rating for the copper corrosion test D-4048 - none is given for red. 1b is OK. Timken OK loads are the same. Water washout is less with red and green has better oxidation stability so would be better in harsh environments, perhaps. Green is made for heavy duty applications, red looks like more for automotive and lighter duty, but that is from reading the weasel words on the bottom of the SDS. It would be good if both data sheets were done at the same time by the same person and were consistent.

 

What is your planned use? They are both full of EP additives so the corrosion test result is important, as is keeping them fresh in application (they mustn't dry out). You had best tell us what "regular old chassis grease" is.

 

P.S. D-4048 is for grease, D-130 is for petroleum products. The results chart is the same or very similar.

Edited April 13, 2018 by Spinneyhill (see edit history)

[Summershandy]

16 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

So Lubriplate 110 is a useful grease for a place where it will rarely be accessed or topped up or replaced to keep it fluid, and the temperature remains fairly low.

Along with being resistant to corrosion, maintaining it's lubricating integrity and doesn't wash out, sounds a lot like brake grease to me. Permatex makes a few types. 

[poci1957]

18 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

What is your planned use? They are both full of EP additives so the corrosion test result is important, as is keeping them fresh in application (they mustn't dry out). You had best tell us what "regular old chassis grease" is.

 

I was lubricating my 1950s hood hinges and window regulators and got a tip to use the red grease and thought it worked pretty good--seemed better than the white lithium I had been using that indeed seems to dry out.  I used the green in suspension and U joints for my old truck and lawnmowers since it claimed to be good for HD applications that are not serviced frequently, also in line with what you said above.  So for future automotive suspension and U joints I was planning to commit to red (rather than keep both) and would appreciate your advice, thanks Todd C 

[Summershandy]

I ended up running around town to the local automotive and industrial shops today looking for Lubriplate 110. No one had it or could get it. I also spoke to a few and looked for a grease made of calcium sulfonate. A lot of blank looks there too. Educated some on that and lithium complex grease. My last visit was to an old school mechanic now behind the parts desk of today's technology. He thought the same as me. Today's grease has come a long way and we figure a good synthetic would have the additives, which I found in a lithium complex and would suffice. Some said just plain old bearing grease, but I'm not good with that. This is the best I can do. 

[Spinneyhill]

1 hour ago, Summershandy said:

Today's grease has come a long way and we figure a good synthetic would have the additives, which I found in a lithium complex and would suffice.

That is what I would think too.

 

2 hours ago, poci1957 said:

So for future automotive suspension and U joints I was planning to commit to red (rather than keep both) and would appreciate your advice, thanks Todd C

Either would be fine, but a synthetic would be better. The old white lithium my contain quite a bit of clay. If you are using it anywhere there is metal with copper in it, make sure the copper corrosion test rating is 1a (or perhaps 1b). It is given for the green but not the red for some reason - you would have to ask them.

[Summershandy]

32 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

That is what I would think too.

Thanks Spinneyhill....always appreciate a second or sometimes third opinion. 

[poci1957]

Sound good spinneyhill, so what synthetic would you recommend for my suspensions greasing?  Any preferred brand?

[Spinneyhill]

Find one that meets the requirements and whose price you can stomach! I probably don't have the same brands as you anyway.

[poci1957]

Oh yeah, I guess so, thanks again, Todd C