Wheelmang Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Ray - The counter shaft washer is in back in place on mine! I cannot imagine trying to do any internal work on this in situ. Amazing you did not have any gear tooth damage with that much movement on the idler gears. That washer is at least 1/32" (.80 mm) Lucky guy! I have to wonder if the bushings on yours were used to replace the roller bearing set up like I found on mine? Spinnyhill - Thanks for the input. I just decided that for the $40.00 cost of the new bearings it was cheap insurance. The transmission was noisy but is sounded like the old oil delivery truck I drove when I was in my teens so that wasn't the reason for the change. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 (edited) Good afternoon or whatever time of day it is where you are. I guess I am being a little thick headed on the valve guide removal process. Ray I started to use the process you described but cannot see any way to press or pull on it. I have a 5/16 bolt that is plenty long but the top of the valve guide is actually part of the block casting. It looks like the bottom half of the guide that is exposed is made of a different material. It is similar to the pictures of 4 cylinder valve guides on the Myers site. That one is obviously not cast. I tried tapping on the top of the guide and promptly broke a small piece off. (Don't pay any attention to the broken water inlet stud. That is for another day.) Any help or suggestions greatly appreciated. Paul Edited July 26, 2018 by Wheelmang word edit (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Hi Paul. What I did was to make up a puller using a tube; a long nut and bolt, and a couple of thick washers. The guides, I imagine, will come out either way but I wanted to avoid marking the top of the block so I pulled them down. I don't think they are in any way part of the block but the ribs along their length make them a tight fit. Once you get the first one out the others will be easy, I'm sure. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Would penetrating oil (50-50 acetone and ATF) help? Give it a good soak over several days and add a few drops morning and evening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 I will have to take some better pictures showing what is causing my confusion. It looks like the steel valve guide, as show from Myers, is recessed into the cast opening in the block. The top of the guide is not visible from the top of where recesses. The hole where the valve stem goes through is the same size as the ID of the valve guide. The book of information says to use a chisel when removing the valve guide. I question now if the chisel is to be used to knock the cast top portion of the guide off in order to get to the actual steel guide. Sounds very drastic to me though. Better pictures later. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 With the top of the guide now broken I don't think you will get an even pull on it so I suggest try pulling it out through the top. Take care not to bruise the block face though. It will pull out. No need to use a cold chisel. Why take the risk? These blocks are more fragile than they seem. Don't forget to measure the new guides. If they are oversize you could easily split the block pulling them in. I needed to machine mine to fit. Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 Finding plenty to do while waiting what will be months before engine reassemble. One of the axle nut threads on my housing is screwed up. I have this spare that I started on yesterday and cannot how to get it disassembled. Anyone have experience with this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Sorry Paul, I am not sure what your problem is. "One of the axle nut threads on my housing is screwed up". Would you be able to give a little more detail as to what is wrong and what you want to do about it please.? Ray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted August 1, 2018 Author Share Posted August 1, 2018 Sorry Ray - I should know better than to try and send messages from my cell phone. Here's the scenario. The axle housing that is still in my car has threads that are badly messed up on one end. This is the refurbished one on the replacement axle. So I have a complete spare rear axle assembly that is now in my shop. I am trying to completely disassemble and refurbish it. The ring and pinion are all set. (Much cleaner now that what is pictured.) What I am trying to take apart now is the front portion of the diff housing. It has six pins three top and three bottom that appear need to be removed in order to get the housing portion off. I thought they may have been swedge pins but they did not budge even with heating up around them. It also looks like the ring drive gear (no picture, I am maxed out on uploads for the day) on the end of the driveshaft cannot be pulled until this housing is off. It is pressed on with a key way. No way to a get a two or three jaw puller under that I can see. Your help is greatly appreciated. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.White Posted August 1, 2018 Share Posted August 1, 2018 Above my pay grade, I'm afraid. Sorry. Ray. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 The Torque tube is factory fitted and DOES NOT come out of the housing I see that you have removed the clamp bolt and on the other side are two bolts holding plate Remove these and the plate and you will see a cage that is slotted This cage is screwed out and the pinion shaft and drive shaft all come out together If you have an instruction book there is a diagram in it to show how it goes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 Thank you Ron. I will attack it tomorrow. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Lawson Posted August 2, 2018 Share Posted August 2, 2018 Paul the cage that unscrews out is the pinion bearing cage It houses the two tapered pinion bearings Do you have an instruction manual as it is full of all the information that you will need in setting up the crown wheel and pinion mesh again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted August 2, 2018 Author Share Posted August 2, 2018 Hi Ron: I need to get back to the engine builder. I loaned him my manuals as he needed specs for future work. I will post pictures as things progress. Certain to be more questions. Thanks for the guidance. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheelmang Posted August 9, 2018 Author Share Posted August 9, 2018 First - This restoration is not dead! A number of factors have led to the difficult decision to back burner this until what is likely the first of next year. I really appreciate all of the input and guidance from everyone out there. The post will be revived as soon as I am able to start it up again. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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