v12 oil leak

[2nevets]

I have a dilemma here-I have motor oil coming out of the  hole in the  rear compartment of the oil pan-now it only does this when the motor is hot and the oil is thin and when I go up a hill-My question is this
Since I already replaced the oil pan gasket and the rear cork strip that goes in the main bearing cap groove-is it possible the oil is leaking thru the rear main seal? it only does this going up hill when the oil is forced to the rear of the pan-its a pretty good leak
Is the rear main seal a split type seal or rope? Again thanks for the help

Steve 

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

It is very easy to flub up the cork on the rear of the pan, corners especially----that has been my experience--This engine originally had a "slinger" not

positive rear main, that restricted rear main leak via several stacked channels, many  of us eliminated that and used a ford v-8 positive rope seal..

(crank machined out of car) 

 Soooooo, clean and look carefully at those corners and that rear cork--pull pan and reinstall with new gasket and liberal use of 

sealer in corners and at rear main bridge--glue gaskets to pan before installation...or pull engine..

[2nevets]

I always glued the gaskets to the block first

[Tom_Overfield]

Lower the rear portion of the pan, use some permatex sealer on that cork pan gasket. Mine did the same thing, no more leak.

 

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

ahhhh..ok   Just a loose attempt at brainstorming , (( i have found it helpful, watch the spot between rear main bridge and pan gasket))

.....whatever works for you, 

[Ray500]

Those flimsy paper pan gaskets don't work well.  I've found that PermaTex makes a gasket compound in a tube that seals well without leaks.  Same with the transmission covers.  Back in the day they didn't have much, and leaks were common.  The Forma Gasket new compounds do a good job in sealing.  If the pan is bent or not perfectly flat, that can be a problem in getting it sealed.  Also I had to replace my '41 steering column and the gaskets on end plate of the steering gear box leaked even with the proper gaskets. So the new Forma Gasket compound fixed that.  Some used to drain the 90 weight oil and replace it with axle grease.  Not very brilliant, but it didn't leak either.  

[2nevets]

going to try it again
the only thing I did not use rtv on was the cork gasket itself
it seems like it would be a waste since the part of the pan that meets the gasket is thin and I don't see how rtv would help but Im going to try

[38ShortopConv.]

If the oil is coming out  the split  pin hole in the bell housing it could be passing thru the rear main bearing. No amount of sealer on the cork gasket or elsewhere will stop the oil leak if it is. Oil could  intermittently  pass thru  the rear main bearing due to a number of reasons, worn bearing, high  crankcase  pressure, blocked or missing drain pipe from rear main, high oil level, slogging up hills, worn modified seal etc. Just my brainstorming.

Edited March 30, 2020 by 38ShortopConv. (see edit history)

[Ken/Alabama]

I always put a small bead of RTV in the groove for the cork strip then install the cork and either clamp it in place or lay the pan on it to hold it in place till it cures. If I use the pan I usually go ahead and tack the pan gasket to the pan also and let it cure. After its cured remove the pan and the gasket should be held firmly to the pan with the RTV and the cork strip should be held to the block. For final assembly run a fat bead of RTV across the cork strip and in the corners where it meets the block. Now the pan can be installed without the gasket falling out of place. Been doing it this way for 30 years with great success.  But like has already been mentioned there's no amount of sealer that will stop the oil leak if it's coming around a loose rear main. None of these V12s had rear rope seals just a slinger so if the rear main gets wear in it  its gonna leak. 

[bwanapete]

I have a 1941 Continental.  The engine does not burn oil and puff blue at the bottom of a long hill but it does leak too much, and oil gets on the clutch too.  I believe it was rebuilt not that long before I bought it because the mechanic who put in a new oil pump last year told me there was no sludge, and everything looked very clean.  I don't know how much it leaked before the new oil pump.  Had that put in after just a short drive because the oil pressure was very low.  Now it is fine.  I want to try to stop the leak without going to a new rear main bearing.  

 

In my Lincoln Chassis Parts catalogue, I find an oil pan gasket kit Part #96H6781 consisting of  H-6700 (packing), 96H-6701 (packing), 96H6710 (right side gasket) and H96H6711 (left side gasket)

 

Also rear oil seal (2 parts) 86H6335 (upper) and 96H6366 (lower).

 

Are these the parts that I should obtain before the attempt to tackle the oil leak, using the hints above in this thread?  And any suggestions of sources would be appreciated.

 

I find the mention of the slinger(s) and rope in grooves confusing because I am very green at all this.  And someone else suggested use of silicone gaskets instead of cork gaskets.  Do I just let my mechanic cut gaskets, or what?

 

[38ShortopConv.]

The slinger and rope seal is a second seal further back inside the rear main bearing.  Needs machine work to crankshaft to fit this seal. Oil leaking out split pin hole  can come from gearbox lay shaft leak  I believe. "O" rings properly installed can cure this leak.  

[19tom40]

If you installed a high volume pump, it may be the cause of your problem. The high volume pump will magnify any sealing deficiencies. Make sure that the rear main drain pipe is clean and in place.

 

The crankshaft slinger is a thin piece of metal behind the rear main bearing. If this was machined away, you need to have the rope type seal behind the rear main. You cannot use both and if the rope seal is installed, there are 2 pot metal pieces that have to be replaced with different pot metal pieces. The slinger seal uses pot metal pieces with a V-groove and the rope seal uses pieces with a flat bottom to accommodate the rope. The pot metal pieces are inserted in the block behind the rear main bearing and in the rear main bearing cap. The cap must be removed to see them.