moran75 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Hi All ive removed the valve covers and it looks to me that maybe there is more oil than there should be, hasn’t drained away...see pics. May be normal though? If I’m right can someone advise me where the drain holes are?! Cant see anything ‘obvious’anywhere... cheers kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 1st. off things are pretty dirty. Oil drains down the holes for the pushrods. The oil that collects is in the valley of the heads & is normal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Whoa! Talk about sludge, you have it in spades. If the oil were not draining back into the crankcase, there would be standing oil in the top of the head. According to your shop manual, the oil drains back into the crankcase via the enlarged push rod holes. Oil is supplied to the rocker arm shafts through the bolt holes. You should look in your shop manual for a diagram showing the path the oil takes from the pump up through the engine and back to the pan. Chances are your oil pan is just as bad if not worse. Perhaps others will chime in on how they cleaned up sludge without tearing the engine down. If it were me, I'd start with frequent oil changes and use a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in lieu of one quart of oil. I'd also start by using synthetic oil with at least 1,000 parts per 1,000 000 of zinc. Synthetic oils tend to wash out sludge but that would take thousands of miles to accomplish. If your going to try and clean it by running it out, make sure you use the best (meaning non-Fram) filter you can. Wix and Hastings are good. NAPA Gold is made by Wix. If you can, find a longer filter than the OE one. You're going to need as much filter paper as you can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 DON'T USE SYNTHETIC OIL!!!! If you don't have any, or very few, oil leaks you will!!! Use a high quality oil & a GOOD oil filter, NAPA 1049, every 500 miles for a year or so. Then remove the valve covers again & things should be pretty clean. Or at least MUCH better than they are now. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moran75 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Yep...sure is dirty....Been sitting for 10 years so I’m in process of getting it moving and stopping again .... ignition system replaced, oil filter/oil (synthetic) changed etc and is now running , seemingly very well all things considered. thought I’d have a look inside valve covers whilst I was at it and renew gaskets whilst I was there... good to know re marvel oil ...and will be changing oil/filter very regularly while I try to run it out... many thanks kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Curran Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Not sure if you are using cork or rubber valve cover gaskets but I believe Fel-Pro still makes a rubber gasket for the nailheads. I have used them on all of mine in the past and they last for years on end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 15 minutes ago, telriv said: DON'T USE SYNTHETIC OIL!!!! If you don't have any, or very few, oil leaks you will!!! Use a high quality oil & a GOOD oil filter, NAPA 1049, every 500 miles for a year or so. Then remove the valve covers again & things should be pretty clean. Or at least MUCH better than they are now. Tom T. Ive been using Mobil 1 Full Synthetic in my older engines for many miles with no leaks (so far.) ?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moran75 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Hi Pat Ive gone with FEL-PRO Blue Stripe cork-rubber gaskets - fingers crossed but im quietly confident!.. Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moran75 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Aha, the thorny issue of engine oil .... for the record I've re-checked my records and i didn't use synthetic as per my earlier reply , rather the oil as per attached pics...as per the gasket iIm happy with my research/choice, but only time will tell !...... Cheers Kev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DualQuadDave Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Use 15w-40 Rotella Diesel Oil. The Delo 15w-40 is good too. Best bang for the buck for vintage motors and is high detergent. I like the slightly thicker weight too, 10-30 is too thin for anything but a fresh motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Looks pretty good. What's the cost of a 5 liter jug? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 Mobil 1 15W-50. 1300 PPM zinc, 1200 PPM phosphorus. "Especially designed for flat tappet engines" <$25 For a 5 quart jug at Wally-world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 1 hour ago, RivNut said: Looks pretty good. What's the cost of a 5 liter jug? I paid $55 for a 2.5 gallon jug at Autozone, with a $15 rebate from Shell subtracted from that. Looks like the price is up to $59.99, but the rebate increased to $17.50. The 5 liter jug is $28.99, with a $7 rebate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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