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1956 88 no start


Abua

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He really thinks it the electrical so he’s siding on that first. Really can’t get enough speed and compression. to get it started. But he’s not ruling anything out until he can hear it run

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That was really an irresponsible thing for any mechanic to conclude or say without being able to give any evidence to back it up.   That's like going to the ER and telling the first doctor you see you don't feel quite right.  Then that doctor tells you without any tests that you are going to need a new heart,  then the second doctor sees you listens to your heart does a few tests then says you have heart burn and just need some medicine to help you with heart burn or were just having a panic attack.  Main bearings in a car are about as serious as it gets short of a rod hanging out of the block.  That requires basically a full rebuild.   Thus the reason for me strongly questioning the diagnosis the two mechanics were giving you. 

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12 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

That was really an irresponsible thing for any mechanic to conclude or say without being able to give any evidence to back it up.   That's like going to the ER and telling the first doctor you see you don't feel quite right.  Then that doctor tells you without any tests that you are going to need a new heart,  then the second doctor sees you listens to your heart does a few tests then says you have heart burn and just need some medicine to help you with heart burn or were just having a panic attack.  Main bearings in a car are about as serious as it gets short of a rod hanging out of the block.  That requires basically a full rebuild.   Thus the reason for me strongly questioning the diagnosis the two mechanics were giving you. 

 

I agree but I also can't help but wonder what has been lost in translation from the mechanic to the OP's posts.  I don't get a warm feeling that the OP is accurately conveying the message.

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1956 Olds are 12V. If there's only 5-9V at the starter, something is amiss in starter primary wiring. Get a 1956 Olds factory shop manual and study its wiring diagram  closely, then compare it to what is actually on the car. I think some buggering has been done or you have a bad positive battery cable or connection.

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Yes I have the manual mechanic went through it. Will be changing out ballast resistor and then starter if needed. . The resistor is where he came across the issue  and thinks it will need to be changed out. Cheap replacement will keep you updated

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33 minutes ago, Abua said:

Yes I have the manual mechanic went through it. Will be changing out ballast resistor and then starter if needed. . The resistor is where he came across the issue  and thinks it will need to be changed out. Cheap replacement will keep you updated

 

Either you are once again not correctly conveying the information, or this is faulty logic.  The ballast resistor has NOTHING to do with the starter motor (I think that's the tenth or eleventh time I've said that in this thread).  More to the point, it also has NOTHING to do with voltage to the points when the key is in the START position. If the car cranked, started, then immediately died when the key was turned to RUN, I would agree that the ballast resistor could be the problem. Since you have not described the problem that way, I can only assume that is not the case.  Randomly replacing parts that are not even connected when the problem occurs is a great way to fatten the mechanic's wallet at the expense of your own.

 

I think I've wasted enough time on this thread. Good luck.

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I’ve also mentioned that I had the wrong info from the start. I’m not saying it’s related I’m saying I’m changing out the resistor first to see if it was the problem. I also stated a while back that the issue WAS a no start after it was running. And yes I did describe it that way. I was just relaying what the mechanics thought the issue could be. That’s why I started a thread for HELP because I am not that mechanically inclined. I appreciate your help but if you think you wasted too much of your time on the thread then I appreciate your help and knowledge. I have been communicating everything to my mechanic that everyone has been telling me. And it has been very helpful and he has already tested everything and that is why we are at the resistor. Thanks again

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A test of the resistor or the wiring that feeds it can be done in a few seconds buy jumping from the + side of the battery bypassing the resistor and going to the + side of the coil.Try and start the car. If it doesn't pop or start in a few seconds take the jumper off or the points will burn. but that will tell you if the ballast resistor is defective or if the wiring is jacked up somewhere between the key and the coil..... Tedd

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