63 Riviera Heater

[PullmeoverRED]

I have a factory AC 63 Riv and just had my heater core replaced. The AC is not currently working. Can someone please guide me on how the switches/levers work? Is the heated air supposed to come through the vents or somewhere else? It works through the defrost above dash when I push the lever in but when I pull it back out and don't feel it comiing from anywhere. 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks so much,

Leiani

[TexRiv_63]

Heated air should be directed to the defroster and floor vents. The control levers and cables are often broken or seized on the 63's.

[PullmeoverRED]

Thank you Don! 

[RivNut]

The doors that regulate where the air is deflected are controlled by vacuum diaphrams.  They are dual stage diaphrams.  Vacuum supplied in stage one will open them halfway, stage two will open them fully. Halfway or fully is the difference between floor or dash vents.   Search the forum for details.

[telriv]

Leiani,

 

   Do yourself a HUGE favor & get yourself a chassis manual. Will make things SO MUCH EASIER for you.

[Turbinator]

On 3/9/2018 at 5:10 PM, PullmeoverRED said:

Thank you Don! 

 

On 3/9/2018 at 5:10 PM, PullmeoverRED said:

Thank you Don! 

Pullmeover Red, went through the same trials you are going thru. Now, I’m no expert, so I can’t tell you how. What I can tell you in order to get a handle on the problem do as Teleiv suggest3d and get the GM 1963 Buick Service Manual. Next search this forum for your topic. A gent named Jim Cannon, Tom Mooney, RivNut, telriv, are real deal gents who know Rivieras like no one else. I’m sure I left out a dozen more gents who really know this stuff. They will help, but of course, you have to make the time investment/sweat equity to get some good ideas of what  is going on. 

I started with the water control valve on my 63 being converted to a vacuum control valve. Next, I had a bell arm made and replaced in the control panel. New vacuum actuator was installed along with new vacuum lines and hard to find original part vacuum switch. I had the suction control valve rebuilt by Old Air in Texas. New compressor, new drier, replacement ac muffler, hoses with compression fittings, oh and labor, plus R12 at $50 bucks a pound. Now, I have cold air in the cabin in the summer and hot air and defrost in the winter. I’m embarrassed to tell you how many $ I’m out. I learned a lot. I’ll pm you and some some graphics that might help.

[KongaMan]

First and foremost: if the levers don't move, don't force them.  They will break.

 

As pointed out earlier, airflow is controlled by vacuum diaphragms.  Get yourself a couple of pieces of vacuum hose about 2-3' long, then start testing the diaphragms.  Test the STV to make sure it holds vacuum.   Test your heater valve to make sure it operates freely.

 

The controls drop down from the dash.  A quick visual inspection (to make sure nothing's broken) and a drop of lube on the pivots points would do you good.  You would also benefit from removing and lubing any control cables.  Yeah, it's a PITA.  So is replacing a broken lever.

 

Finally, get a Service Manual. Originals are readily available on eBay or the like, or you can get a digitized version (e.g. from RockAuto).  The originals are easier to read, but you can print pages from the CD to use while you're working without worrying about getting your book dirty.