Randalll

1963 Buick Riviera 401 Carburator vacuum port

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Those ground straps just carry the ground from the neg. post on the battery into the body. The battery cable bolts to the power steering pump bracket. The straps you mention carry that ground into the body. I'm not exactly sure which engine bolt is used to bolt to but just connect the engine block to the body.

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10 hours ago, Randalll said:

Quick question guy's,

 

   I have two ground straps coming off the firewall. The one on the passenger side goes to either  the exhaust manifold or engine head(Can't remember), and the one on the drivers side firewall is not connected to anything. Where does it attach? the engine or chassis? Would that cause a short? Also these are very thin/small ground straps, so my question is are there only two small ground straps for the entire car besides the battery cable (which is actually attached to the power steering bracket, not sure if that's right either)? And finally would it just be smarter to run a new ground strap from the negative battery post to the body so I know it's grounded?  I still can't get this car to run well, in fact the problem is getting worse and I can't tell if it's Fuel, Vacuum, or Electrical that's causing this. As always, thank you in advance. 

Originally, the ground straps extend from the firewall to studded head bolts at the back of the block. Obviously there are many paths and methods to ground the body but the original pathway is from body thru the ground straps to engine and finally thru the ground cable back to battery.

  Tom

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22 hours ago, Randalll said:

 

   No. The pathway I described grounds the body back to the battery. So if your concern is body ground there is no need to involve the frame.

   I have never experienced an issue with frame ground in a first gen Riv but if you are concerned with grounding the frame you can do as Buick did, in `66, and run a ground cable/wire from the negative post or battery cable to a point on the frame.

   In `65 there is also a ground wire from the negative battery cable to the voltage regulator mounting fastener which also helps to provide a pathway to battery ground. This ground wire is often eliminated when the battery cable is changed.

  Tom

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OK, here's an update... I found and installed the plate under carb and gasket, new points, condenser, rotor, cap, wires, and coil. Now I can't even get it to start. I have spark coming out of the coil but not out of the plug wires. I do have sufficient fuel going into the rebuilt Carter and coming out/ into the manifold. I do not have a heat valve on passenger exhaust so I know its not closed or the problem. STUMPED! As always I really appreciate your and any input at all.

 

Randall

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5 hours ago, Randalll said:

OK, here's an update... I found and installed the plate under carb and gasket, new points, condenser, rotor, cap, wires, and coil. Now I can't even get it to start. I have spark coming out of the coil but not out of the plug wires. I do have sufficient fuel going into the rebuilt Carter and coming out/ into the manifold. I do not have a heat valve on passenger exhaust so I know its not closed or the problem. STUMPED! As always I really appreciate your and any input at all.

 

Randall

If you have spark coming out of the coil and not the wires there is an issue in the rotor, cap or wires.

Tom

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Hello Guy's,

 

   So one thing I found is that I only have about 5 volts going to my coil. Do I need to hook up a resister wire? Are 63's 12v systems

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SOLVED: First, many thanks to all who participated in helping me through this issue, especially RivNut, a plethora of information. I am writing to say that I have solved this issue. I read many articles from other people that described my exact issue but many of those post had no final answer or solution, this was a bit frustrating and I know what works for me may not work for everyone but hopefully this will help narrow down your specific issue. If your issue sounds anything like this one, it may be one or a combination of these three things:

1. My coil was arcing on a steel braided line that was running across the back of the Intake Manifold-(Check at night to look for spark arcing across anything)

2. Freeze plug under intake manifold is rotted or completely blown out. (easy to replace)

3. Bad points and condenser- This was caused by the coil arcing so could have just replaced P/C but I switched to Petronix and the consistency makes world of difference.

 

This car went from running ok to not running at all to running better than I ever expected. In between all of this I had mechanics tell me everything from it could be a single bad wire- to -my motor was no good and needed a complete rebuild. My advice is to take the time to actually correctly diagnose the problem and do some simple test to narrow down the culprit before tearing the who;e engine back out.  

 

I hope this helps the next guy who's as frustrated as I was. Good luck.

       

         Randall

 

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