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switch to electronic ignition


RIVNIK

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Greetings! I want to switch my '65 to electronic ignition. After a little research I'm thinking about the Petronix ll. Can I get a "customer rating" from anyone? Can anyone recommend a better one?  And should I replace the stock coil with a high performance one at the same time. Any tips on installation ? Any info on the subject will be greatly appreciated.       Drew

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My 65 had a Pertronix part number 1181 installed along the way somewhere. No problems so far, always starts well. The resistor is still hooked up tho, which sorta confues me because I thought these units allowed it to be bypassed or removed.

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I run a pertronix ignitor 3 and matching coil in my mustang for the past few years. Works amazing. Little bit better gas mileage and much better throttle response than the previous crane HI8 box and distributor. Much cheaper too.

 

I believe the ignitor 1 can run on reduced voltage.

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I had the Pertronix 1181 and Flame Thrower coil installed on my 68 recently. My mechanic has installed dozens of them and swears by them. The Aqua Zephyr idles great, accelerates effortlessly and runs smoothly.

 

I have one of the USA made MSD Ready to Run distributors installed on my 69 Chevrolet Caprice 327 car with the matching MSD coil. This setup is also an excellent choice if you want to update your ignition. 

Edited by NC68Riviera (see edit history)
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Go with any of the Pertronix(I like the 3 the best, from experience) or Dave's HEI.  I have run several MSD's and just not in love.  I only use them in custom applications, with big cams, etc and only when I have too.  Majority of people who install the MSD's have no idea how to set them up to run properly.

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22 hours ago, rocky5517 said:

What went wrong?

Even though I followed the installation instructions, I could not get the Pertronix unit to seat correctly on the distributor of my '69 Chevy Caprice 327. I ended up buying the MSD Ready to Run for SBC and having my mechanic install that distributor  instead. For my '68

Rivi my mechanic recommended the Pertronix kit,  which I concurred with.  He has installed dozens of these units. The Rivi runs like a champ with this kit.

Edited by NC68Riviera (see edit history)
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How will the Pertronix system handle a kill switch. I currently use a switch to ground the hot wire that goes to the points. It only grounds if the ignition is switched on.

 

 Will the grounding cause the Pertronix to fail completely?

 

thanks

Rodney ????

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5 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

How will the Pertronix system handle a kill switch. I currently use a switch to ground the hot wire that goes to the points. It only grounds if the ignition is switched on.

 

 Will the grounding cause the Pertronix to fail completely?

 

thanks

Rodney ????

 

Just wire the switch to remove +12 VDC from the ignition coil instead.

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5 hours ago, EmTee said:

 

Just wire the switch to remove +12 VDC from the ignition coil instead.

 

But wouldnt that still allow a jumper wire from the battery to the coil to give ignition? 

 

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1 hour ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

But wouldnt that still allow a jumper wire from the battery to the coil to give ignition? 

 

 

Yes but NO. The ignition system is an AC (alternating current) system, it only really functions when its on AND off after the -ve side (on a  -ve ground setup) of the coil. When the primary side of the coil (+12v from your ignition) is on, ie. the points are closed, this causes the secondary side of the coil to energize, and then when the points open, the energy stored in the secondary side of the coil is released to the spark plugs.

 

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2 hours ago, maok said:

 

Yes but NO. The ignition system is an AC (alternating current) system, it only really functions when its on AND off after the -ve side (on a  -ve ground setup) of the coil. When the primary side of the coil (+12v from your ignition) is on, ie. the points are closed, this causes the secondary side of the coil to energize, and then when the points open, the energy stored in the secondary side of the coil is released to the spark plugs.

 

Yes but NO.  The ignition system is not AC; it is pulsed DC.  Moreover, energy is not "stored" in the secondary coil; the high voltage results from the quick change in current through the primary coil caused by the rapid opening of the points (Faraday's law).

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17 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

 

But wouldnt that still allow a jumper wire from the battery to the coil to give ignition? 

 

 

Yes, but a car thief would need to diagnose the issue, which takes time.  Unless they are professionals, they'll find another mark.  If you install a hood lock (which I recommend anyway) there would be no way to 'hot-wire the coil'.  In a pinch, just put the coil wire (or distributor rotor) in your pocket if you need to leave your car parked overnight.  ;)

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Ok, so if I wire the switch so power from the coil goes through the switch, then turning the switch to off ( breaking the circuit) means that even if hot wired to the coil, no power goes to distributor.

 

Kill switch in the on or start position, switches on the circuit.

 

The coil power has to travel a bit more, would this be an issue?

 

have I got this correct?

thanks Rodney

 

 

 

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What I'm thinking is I'd place the kill switch in series with the IGN wire from the ignition switch.  Find somewhere far enough away from the key switch so that it's not obvious that there's any modification.  At that point, splice in the kill switch with sufficient wire to allow hiding the toggle switch where you can access it, but nobody else will easily find it.  If connections are soldered or properly crimped and insulated with electrical tape or shrink sleeving there should be no ill effects.  With the switch ON,, everything works normally; switch OFF will interrupt 12V to the coil.  The car will try to fire, but as soon as the key is released from START to RUN it will quit.  (Like a 60's Chrysler product with a bad ballast resistor.)

 

But wait -- I just had another idea...  An even better option might be to install the secret toggle kill switch in series with the neutral safety switch.  That will prevent the starter from cranking.  I would think that will be easy to hide somewhere within the console, or maybe on the side of the console down between the seat and console.

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I have the switch installed already so that’s no issue. Currently it grounds the power going from the coil to the points when in the KILL position.

 

I do like the idea of linking it to the neutral start switch. 

Thanks for the ideas.

cheers

rodney

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  • 1 year later...
On 2/19/2018 at 9:12 PM, RIVNIK said:

thanks for all the info, guys! The pertronix II is on its way from Amazon, along w a 45,000V Flamethrower coil. Will let you know how it goes.    Drew

I have a 1964 Riv, what part numbers on Amazon should I be ordering? Thanks

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