cevensky

1933 Buick Series 90 Model 91

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Start very seriously asking around if anyone has a set of original wood sills for a pattern for any body style 90 series Buick. If you get the foundation right it will make your life so much easier via wood rebuilding.  Also, would start woodworking with body pretty much just like it is on the frame verses  taking it all apart -  at least until you get a core structure. 

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If you have not already done so you should join the BCA and check out the Buick specific forums on this site, especially the Buick Prewar forum. There are past threads covering restoration of these cars for research plus many experts that could guide you and answer questions.

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That will be a really nice car when you are done. I like the front end on the 33’s.

Very cool.

Keep a lookout for the parts you are going to need for that car. Buy them when you find them, because you won’t be able to find them when you need them.

 

Chuck

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On ‎2‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 1:40 PM, cevensky said:

Last night I got the rear passenger fended off–it was a necessity because until my jeep's transmission is in fighting fit again, it has to share the garage and it's a tight fit along with this behemoth Buick.

I also got the entire dash out and I hope the wiring diagram with whatever harness I buy is decent! More teardown tonight after work.

(I'm showing off a picture of my personally and completely restored '42 Ford jeep, the one on the right. The one I got driving for him is on the left)

 

I'm taking suggestions on how to best lift the body off. I'm imagining some wood to stabilize where the doors should be and using my rafters and shop crane. 

Pictures for now will be boring and monochromatic due to my lackluster garage lighting and ubiquitous rust/dust! Sorry!

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cevensky:

  All our best wishes for your project. The 1933 is simply a glorious looking car! A friend of mine has the 1932 version of this model. A former 1932 Auto Show car, perfect wood, sheet metal and nearly perfect original interior.DSCF1361.thumb.JPG.c8b6a0aa19cc7c944ace46d1866402ba.JPGDSCF1369.thumb.JPG.7ba3187532befbb83d6d0c4773e97d1d.JPG

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 Looking at the photos again I can see the differences. I know there may be some similar construction but dimensions will be different. On this car all the doors close and latch with the push of a finger. Impressive.

 I would contact the Nicola Bulgari Complex in Allentown PA. The contact person is Kieth Flickenger, who heads Mr.Bulgari's restoration staff. They have the most complete information/experience on these 1933 through 1935 90 series cars.

 I love the photos of your 1942 GPW. I had a 1943 GPW work car/project back in 1974.

 Best of luck:

 Larry

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One concern I've had since the woods was that the front wheels did not turn at all. Thankfully today I was able to pull the passenger side brake drum, clean it up (until my angle grinder started smoking) along with the bearings, pack those, and spray it with some paint to protect from humidity. Luckily, the bearings and races all looked amazing. I'm keeping the brake shoes and their linkage out to work on in the meantime but they won't be needed for a couple months at least. One down, four to go!

 

i also did a little wire wheeling on the frame and other grease-covered stuff just to check it out. Everything looks really great–very encouraging. 

 

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The other day before work I got to use a tire machine to dismount what was left of the rubber then I drove out and dropped all 6 rims at the blaster. The two spares are very rough, the rest will require a touch of welding and grinding for aesthetic purposes, but I believe them to be structurally safe. We'll see what blasts away. 

The carpenter texted last night, he wants to start Monday. After burning out one grinder, I have a good bit of the inside of the body cleaned and epoxy primed (you'll notice a "2" was painted on the rear driver's side panel at one point. Any ideas?), I'm going to get the deposit for him tomorrow and have him start around lunch doing his thing. Felt good to get something so big so clean. I also had spent some time getting the huge dent in the rear pass. panel out best I could. The little dents I made will have to be handled at a later date 

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The 1933 90-series Buicks are my all-time favorite cars. Period. Send me your mailing address and I will send you a magazine with the article I did on the 1933 Buicks some years ago, along with an application form to join the Buick Club of America. Join the club, save these photos, and we'll do a series of articles someday on the restoration of this car. I am about 200 miles west of you in Leonard, Texas (NE of Dallas) and would gladly take a day to come over there and photograph this car when it is done, or even when it is halfway done (yeah, any excuse...). I have a lot of 1932 parts, and there are a few parts that are common between the two years, such as headlights and tail lights, lenses, parking lights, etc.

Pete Phillips

Leonard, Texas

1932, 1948, 1949, 1950, 1954, 1958, 1963, and 1970 Buicks

Edited by Pete Phillips
typo (see edit history)
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Another easy restoration!

 

 

Great car, wonderful driver. Underrated and under valued. I like it. I wish I was young enough to take on a project like that! Best of luck!

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I've been working on the rims since getting them back from the blaster. Luckily these artillery wheels are very very heavy duty and no worries about the integrity. But. Each one has mild to moderate pitting on the face and at least 5-6" of the outer lip that was eaten away. I really impressed myself with my welding/grinding/filing skills; I was able to get all the lips looking good as new! However, that pitting... I tried bondo to fill the pits along with a high build spray primer. This is my first rodeo, but the curves are just so hard to sand and there's still putting after a couple primer coats. Any suggestions on this? 

For now I'm pulling off, cleaning, painting, and bagging small parts. Main sills and other major stabilizing wood pieces are going in next week(ish). 

I might just leave these in primer and put some nearly-trash rollers on these just to move things ahead. 

Thoughts and input? 

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I would be looking for the best rims you can find as yours and other peoples lives are riding on them,  Not only do they hold the weight of the car and the cornering forces generated but there is also 40 lb air pressure on the inside trying to get out.  Welding on the edge where the tire goes is only weakening it.

 

In my opinion, the first rim you have pictured is a definate No No.

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After a little wait due to my real job having no schedule or regular hours, I've made it back to the Buick. And John, thanks for the question because here's the next update: the awesome carpenter brought by the first two pieces of wood today and they're beautiful and fit perfectly. The main sills are next and then we go up from there.

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Edited by cevensky (see edit history)

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Today I ground paint and surface rust off  some of the rear passenger side panels, sanded, wiped with acetone, and primed. I also decided on a gloss black "epoxy" appliance paint to do the inside because I've used it before and it's really durable (and cheap).

I also refined (smoothed) some of the body filler put on there probably 50+ years ago and while welding some splits in the body I discovered it's something like solder. And there's a lot of it in two places, one picture attached. What is this??

 

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Sorry for butting in but I am curious , why would you melt out the old lead if its sound.   Also if it must be removed what is wrong with replacing it with bondo especially one of the fiber reinforced varieties

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IT's not always necessary.  I've seen lead in perfect shape after eighty years, and I've seen it deteriorated, cracking and falling apart.  On a full restoration, I'd take it out, make sure the surface below is in good shape, then replace with new lead - especially on a car with failed paint that's been out in the elements. Not always necessary, but a simple choice of how far you want to go.  Body filler, even the reinforced variety might work, but I would question it's flexibility over a period of time.  Filler is designed to be used in very thin coats, not in quarter inch slabs.  Some of these leaded areas need a thicker coverage than practical with filler.  But use what you think is practical, I've certainly been wrong before - and will be again.  ?

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Had the carpenter out today. He came and fit the wood on the spot since we don't have any of the bottom wood. Only a few more pieces he'll need to do this for.

I've been a little busy getting a model A running that sat for 20 years and a '29 dodge brothers (DA Deluxe? Standard Six? Not sure) made it to my place on Wednesday. Oh well! 

 

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Couple of things. First, all the threads and talk here on the AACA of how our hobby is dying and the kids aren’t interested. Cevensky is 22! Think about that. Look at the work he’s done already. Restoring the Jeep, getting some other early cars up and running. Many would never touch a wood bodied car at 40,50,or ever. Perhaps it’s because he’s new to this or hasn’t heard all the horror stories yet. It’s his enthusiasm and his “anything can be done” attitude that separates a good restorer from the “story tellers” and hacks. Will he make mistakes, yup, those who dive into projects like this always do. But he’ll make that mistake only once and learn from his personal experience at the same time getting better and better at restoring so he’ll be able to tackle any project down the road. Kudos to you my friend and keep up the good work. Now we just need to find about 5000 more of you for the future.

 

The other thing is just a question. It’s hard to tell from the pictures but the main sills should have a graceful curve to the outside edge I believe. In the picture they look straight. I’ve done quite a few wood bodied Chevys but not a Buick but I doubt the outside edge of the sill and the body line/doors, don’t have a curve to them. I know of a pretty rare car where the owner/restorer made the mistake of keeping the outside edge perfectly straight and the doors’s back edge where it meets the latch pillar looks terrible on an otherwise decent restoration. The rocker panel metal and the doors  will help give you the right curve. As was stated earlier, it all starts with the sills. If the curve is off just a 1/4 on the bottom, the door will be way out at the top when you try and assemble it. Of course I don’t know anything of your carpenters experience so he might already know that. All wood used should be select grade white ash.

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Thanks for the words chistech. At the end of the day, we're less the "owners" of these cars and more stewards since they will outlast us, regardless of how old or young you may be. I'm young and able to restore, so that's what I'm doing now, but one day long down the road maybe I'll come into the care of some fine restored cars as current owners need to, or have to, let go of them. And definitely, mistakes have been and will continue to be made. It's how I learn best ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

As for the wood: it does in fact have the curve you're talking about, it's just not visible in the pictures because it's covered by the rocker panel metal that we used to estimate the curve, which can be fine tuned if needed with a sander. But this Buick does have a very pronounced taper from rear to front. Again, I really appreciate comments like these to make sure I'm doing things right. For example, I hate to not use the beautiful rims but based on the advice here, I may not and it's turning out to be an incredible inconvenience, holding me up considerably. But, I can't waste money on them if they aren't good.

Edited by cevensky (see edit history)
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Keiser, yes I do and I picked up the rebuilt starter the other day too! Has a large rust through on driver's side lower cowl... other than that, minor stuff. I mean... minor to me ?

 

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Edited by cevensky (see edit history)

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