64 Skylark turn signal harness

[impacsys]

I am having a heck of time finding a turn signal harness. All the big boys have them for 65 and 66 but not 64. Mine has BPC stamped on it and is an auto trans. Also no hazard lights. Did 64 come with hazards?

 

Can someone help me source this harness?

 

Can it be taken apart and fixed? Rear turn signal and both brake lights don't work.

 

Picture attached

 

Thanks much from 1st time Buick poster.

[Loren@65GS.com]

Found this one and a few other on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-Turn-Signal-Switch-Various-GM-Cars-1964-66-D6200-New-for-1966-GTO/263445376068?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D47300%26meid%3Dac2b2fe27e19454ebfcf11acdda0fd63%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D351300449635%26itm%3D263445376068&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

The Parts Place also has the BPC switch.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-66-GM-Turn-Signal-Switch-Without-Tilt-Stamped-BPC-GM-387115/351300449635?fits=Year%3A1964|Make%3ABuick&hash=item51cb237563:g:PBEAAOSw9eVXUNPl&vxp=mtr

 

 Loren

[Loren@65GS.com]

This switch is listed in my Buick Parts book as a replacement for either BPC or guide.  Gr. 2.895  P/N 382048

 Buick parts book description :

 64   40-41-42-4300 Less Tilt    382048     Switch& Control[complete] use as a repl. for switch & hsg. stamped bpc or guide [used 2.896]

         Type Strg. Whl.             

 

 eBay has one listed :       https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-1965-Buick-Skylark-1964-Oldsmobile-Pontiac-turn-signal-switch-382048/202219010290?epid=655224445&hash=item2f153138f2:g:crQAAOSw42JZBVcK&vxp=mtr

 

 The one above that I found at TPP says 64-66 application, but I question that after looking in the Buick Parts book.

 

 

  Loren

[impacsys]

Loren, Thanks for links! I looked on ebay and for some reason didn't see these.

 

Another question..... how do I remove the transmission shift lever so I can remove the wire harness? 

[Loren@65GS.com]

impacsys ,

 

 There is a pin that can be removed.  Then the lever can be removed. there is a spring in there also.

That is not the way I would approach replacing the switch.

 Myself,  I would remove the terminals from the curved plastic connector. Then reinstall the wires to the proper spot.   It is a bit involved, but I think it is easier then disassembly of the upper column.

Please read this whole description before starting. Got Questions , Ask away.

 To start, on the old harness , cut the wires on near the curved  plastic connector. Keep in mind you want to have enough wire remaining at the plastic connector [ say about 1/4"-1/2' long ]  to be able to identify which color wire goes where, when we get to the final step.  Now attach a fish wire to the harness wiring, be sure it is secured well. I like to use a wire that is stiff but bends easy.  I keep a roll of this cheap wire in my tool box and sometimes it comes in real handy for many tasks.

This wire will allow you to remove the old harness and then install the new one more easily.  Now for the tricky part. The metal terminals must be removed from the plastic connector of the new switch harness. There are two tabs on the metal terminal that can be pushed to allow the terminal to slide out of the plastic connector.  I will need to go out to my shop latter to take pictures of the tool, the terminal and try to show you how it works. Future reply, stay tuned.

Once the terminals are out, the new wire harness can be taped to our fish wire to pull the new harness in place.  Then gently pull the lock tabs out a little on the terminals of the new harness.

Insert each terminal in the correct location of the curved plastic connector, [ this is where why we cut off the old wires the way we did at the start ].  Check each to make sure it is secure in the connector , just a gentle tug will tell you if it is locked in. If the wire pulls out, you need to bend the lock tabs a little more.

 Button up the top end , connect the bottom end to the main harness and you are done.  Easy Peasy !

 

 I will try to finish this with some pictures in a couple of days.

 

  Loren

[impacsys]

Thanks Loren........... I was thinking the same to remove the curved connector then feed loose wire then re-connect. The reason I dismissed it was because I didn't see how to remove the plug connectors from the curved plastic. I shall take a look to see if I can see and access the the release tabs. Pictues will help

 

[BUICK RACER]

Hmm... I replaced this switch on my '68 GS350 after wisdom tooth removal, since I had the day off and I don't remember having to cut any wires, but that was over 20 years ago!

[Loren@65GS.com]

1 hour ago, impacsys said:

Thanks Loren........... I was thinking the same to remove the curved connector then feed loose wire then re-connect. The reason I dismissed it was because I didn't see how to remove the plug connectors from the curved plastic. I shall take a look to see if I can see and access the the release tabs. Pictues will help

 

 

 Today was a bit busy, no shop time.  I will work on pictures tomorrow.

 

 Loren

[Loren@65GS.com]

On ‎2‎/‎14‎/‎2018 at 5:34 PM, impacsys said:

Thanks Loren........... I was thinking the same to remove the curved connector then feed loose wire then re-connect. The reason I dismissed it was because I didn't see how to remove the plug connectors from the curved plastic. I shall take a look to see if I can see and access the the release tabs. Pictues will help

 

 

 

 This is one of the automotive electrical tools available.

Looking at the end of the plastic connector, notice the spaces on each side of the terminal.  As you can see, the tool fits in these spaces. By gently twisting the tool, the locks of the terminal will be released from the connector and the terminal can be pulled out from the wire end. If it doesn't release and pull out easily, just try again.

 

[Loren@65GS.com]

This picture is so you see what the terminal looks like.  Notice the locking leg of the terminal. I bent the one out as it would be normally. Both legs are normally bent slightly out to hold the terminal in place.

You will have to  bend the locking legs of the terminals slightly out when you install the terminals back into the connector.

My reasoning for cutting the wires of the old harness is that you can use it as a reference to reassemble the new terminals in the connector. Just pay attention to the wire colors and their placement. Some of the wires have a tracer color on them, take notice of that.  Some of the wires are solid color and no tracer.

 

 

-

[Loren@65GS.com]

This is the wire I mentioned in my first reply.  After cutting the connector off the old harness, tape this wire to the harness and pull it up the column as you remove the old switch.

Then after you have removed the terminals from the plastic connector of the new switch, tape the pull wire to the new harness and  pull the new switch harness down into place. If it hangs up somewhere you can work it loose by pulling back and forth gently. You should be able to pull the new harness through fairly easily.

 

 

[Loren@65GS.com]

A couple more pictures to give you an idea of what I am trying to explain. I tape the terminals to keep them from catching something as you pull the new switch harness back down .

Notice that the pull wire is taped in, then  bent over and taped over so it won't catch on anything when you pull it through the column.

 

 

 

[Loren@65GS.com]

Once you have pulled the new harness through and installed the switch , the last thing is to put the terminals back in connector. Remember to bent the lock tabs of the terminals out slightly, before inserting them in the plastic connector.

 

 I hope I have made this clear enough .

 

 Loren

[impacsys]

my new switch arrived today.... will give it a try this evening. Did a quick look at the connectors and did not see the locking tabs but will look closer.

[Loren@65GS.com]

5 hours ago, impacsys said:

my new switch arrived today.... will give it a try this evening. Did a quick look at the connectors and did not see the locking tabs but will look closer.

 

 The little locking tabs are impossible to see in the plastic connector.  You need to insert the tool and gently twist it back and forth . It does not take much to bend the tabs in enoughto allow the terminal to come out. I found that pushing on the wire while inserting the release tool helps. Then pull on the wire and the terminal should come out of the connector.

 Work with the old one and get a feel of how to release the terminals from the connector.

 

  Loren

[impacsys]

I finally got the switch installed and it works great.

 

one small problem. I now have a gap between the steering wheel and the switch housing. per a manual I have need to adjust a lower bearing clamp. where is it and how is it adjusted? or is it something else?

 

 

[Loren@65GS.com]

8 hours ago, impacsys said:

I finally got the switch installed and it works great.

 

one small problem. I now have a gap between the steering wheel and the switch housing. per a manual I have need to adjust a lower bearing clamp. where is it and how is it adjusted? or is it something else?

 

 

 

 

 The lower bearing clamp is out in the engine bay.  If you have someone that can push on the steering wheel . Loosen the clamp an slide it up and tighten the bolt.  There is a bearing that the clamp sits against. If you need to replace the bearing, it is available.

 

  Loren