chris_58 Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Hi everyone, I have a starting issues with my 1958 Cadillac and was wondering if anyone had this problem before. First of all, I don't think it's Cadillac specific, but more a general problem. When I start the car in cold state, the starter and battery have enough power to crank the engine until it starts. However, if I stop briefly (like for filling up the tank) after the engine is hot, the starter barely manages it to turn the engine over. It sounds/feels like the battery is empty. When I do get it started again and go to a show for example, shut it off and let the engine cool off, it starts fine again. Any idea what the culprit could be? The battery connectors are clean and protected with dielectric grease. The voltage measures good. Thanks, Christian Aicher Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen_Dyneto Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Very likely the problem is simply that your ignition timing is a bit too far advanced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curti Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 This may well be a starter grounding problem. This is my fix for Auburns. Be sure all connections are CLEAN from the battery to the starter. This includes the starter to the bell-housing. In the case of the Auto-Lite starters the grounding brushes are grounded to the backing plate with rivets which over time build up resistance. 650 CCA will make this problem rear it's ugly head. This fix cures that. A recently rebuilt engine idling thru a parade at 100+ degrees F. Shut it off, wait a minute or two, it will fire right up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brass is Best Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 How old is the battery? If it is being nursed by a tender try a new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WPVT Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 When the engine is hot, the starter is hot, too. I had this same problem once and cured it with a rebuilt starter. Not sure exactly what the culprit was, bushings or brushes, but it wouldn't crank the engine once it was warm. I had tried everything else, battery, cables, etc., and figured the starter was OK because it worked when it was cold. Not so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retiredmechanic74 Posted January 31, 2018 Share Posted January 31, 2018 Depending how many miles is on the engine and how well it was taken care of you may have a carbon build up behind the piston rings causing a drag after the engine gets hot and the carbon expands. This will also cause the engine to run hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_58 Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Hi guys, Thank you for the feedback. I think I'll start with the easy ones first: I will have the battery checked first. If that doesn't solve it, I will check the wires and contacts, making sure all connectors are clean. And if that doesn't do it, I will replace the starter with a spare unit. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retiredmechanic74 Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 11 hours ago, chris_58 said: Hi guys, Thank you for the feedback. I think I'll start with the easy ones first: I will have the battery checked first. If that doesn't solve it, I will check the wires and contacts, making sure all connectors are clean. And if that doesn't do it, I will replace the starter with a spare unit. Chris I would suggest using a carbon removing product first. These old engines were notorious for carbon buildup on the pistons behind the rings and the symptom you describe "is" what happens. Not knowing the condition of the engine leads me to believe this is what has happened and it is the cheapest thing to start with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 @retiredmechanic74 You have peaked my interest as a friend of mine is having a similar problem with a 1932 Rockne. I will start another separate post and ask for some ideas to help troubleshoot the problem. - Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retiredmechanic74 Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 12 hours ago, keithb7 said: @retiredmechanic74 You have peaked my interest as a friend of mine is having a similar problem with a 1932 Rockne. I will start another separate post and ask for some ideas to help troubleshoot the problem. - Keith Keith, there is a discussion on here called Decarbonizer . Check it out, it has some good information about your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_58 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Share Posted February 4, 2018 Hello retiredmechanic74, I couldn't find anything about decarbonation in the AACA forum, but I found some videos on YouTube. Some poured Seafoam, some poured Mystery Marvel Oil and some just plain water into the intake system. It seems like a pretty radical procedure, especially when using water - at least the smoke coming out of the tailpipe would not be more poisonous with water than your normal exhaust. I see your point though, especially since I had to replace my fouled plugs before due to damaged/missing valve stem seals. I am just concerned adding water into the interior of the engine. Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retiredmechanic74 Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 1 hour ago, chris_58 said: Hello retiredmechanic74, I couldn't find anything about decarbonation in the AACA forum, but I found some videos on YouTube. Some poured Seafoam, some poured Mystery Marvel Oil and some just plain water into the intake system. It seems like a pretty radical procedure, especially when using water - at least the smoke coming out of the tailpipe would not be more poisonous with water than your normal exhaust. I see your point though, especially since I had to replace my fouled plugs before due to damaged/missing valve stem seals. I am just concerned adding water into the interior of the engine. Christian No Christian It's not, I used to have a 40 Olds coupe back when I was young and invincible with a 56 Olds V8 with the J2 set up and a Hydro-stick and I pounded that car into the road. It too had the problem of hot hard start and I would every so often flush the cylinders with water to correct the problem. When on the forum click on activity you should find it there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Griffin Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 The bushings may be worn allowing the arnachure to drop down and rub. When things get hot they expand and take what clearance it had when cold. Check battery voltage when cranking cold 9.5 to 10 volts. Crank when hot if the voltage is less then 9 volts the armature is rubbing. The armature shaft may be bent from heat and that would make it drag. Griffin Auto Electric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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