John_Mc Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 (edited) Well it looks like this weekend, I’m going to drop in my newly rebuilt V-12 into my ‘37 Zephyr. It’s an exciting time, but anyone have tips, in particular the assembly, greasing and installation of the universal joint??? Thanks in advance. Here it is ready to go in : Edited January 25, 2018 by John_Mc (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larry butcher Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 I'ave been where you are several times. Does the engine turn over by hand ? I used a homemade adapter that bolts up to the end of the crankshaft where the fan bolts up. This saved time later trying to turn over a newly rebuilt /tight engine in the car. I used a very heavy electric drill ( 2 man 3/4 "). Pulled the plugs and pumped oil down the cylinders and turned it over and over. If you are doing this by yourself, pad the the engine compartment with old blankets , all around to prevent paint chips. I always installed the trans. in the car 1st. Once in the car, hook up to engine, slide back ,put the "clam" shell together. Use both gaskets and align grease fitting toward bottom . Front engine mounts can be installed on the engine before,BUT BE CAREFUL not to scrape the paint on the front cross member. You could install the mounts after engine is set in but set up a little , if you don't mind climbing under. Hardest part may be juggling trans to align the splines. Really clean the paint off of starter and pan surface before installing starter. Don't forget the alignment clip installed between starter and pan rail. Piece of cake! Have fun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mc Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thank for tips AND for your confidence! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
38ShortopConv. Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 John, motor looks great, if you had a LZ. factory oil filter you could bolt it on the left head, that's where they sit and steel pipe it up with flare nuts to bell housing before you put motor in, you will be glad you did, easier than when in car. Bottom pipe from filter to lower hole of three on left bell housing, feeds lifter oil gallery. Side pipe on filter to one of 2 feed outlets higher on bell housing. Oil pressure sender unit also connects there. You could use a Tee fitting and plug 2nd hole. Somebody may provide a diagram. I dont have that skill. U/ joint, has bolt up center, Just pack with grease, fit bell cups and bolt on clamshell, grease nipple to bottom as Larry says. Roy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mc Posted January 25, 2018 Author Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thanks again for getting back to me is such a prompt manner. I have the oil filter in hand and know where it goes but I hav no idea where the lines and pressure switch go. Can anyone post a picture close up of their installation or some kind of a sketch?? Also, if I bought one of these in 1937 from my local Ford/Lincoln dealer, what kind of decal(s) would be on the filter housing??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom_Overfield Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 When I installed mine last year, the transmission went in first, then I took two 4 inch bolts, cut the heads off, ground a taper on the bolts, then slotted them and installed them on the engine where the transmission is fitted. Now when you put the engine in, slowly lower the motor into place and line up the bolts to the transmission and slide in, I was lucky, I only had to turn crankshaft slightly to get the splines to match.. I put the motor mounts on before installation, then wrapped the crossmember with cardboard to prevent scratching the cross member. Once in, simply unscrew to alignment bold with a screwdriver. From removing the motor from the test bench to having the motor in and bolted all around, 35 minutes. Helps to have two other helpers, one under the car to assist lining up the guide pins, two above, one running the lift, one the moving the motor in place as you slowly lower the motor. It a lot quicker do accomplish once you start, be sure and wrap some cheap moving blankets everywhere. have fun. Enjoy the process. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mssr. Bwatoe Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Yes, get that chain off the aluminum intake manifold! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Don't feel you'll be entirely safe or be less careful with moving blankets and the like. They will not prevent dents! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken/Alabama Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 21 hours ago, Mssr. Bwatoe said: Yes, get that chain off the aluminum intake manifold! Just courious as to what the chain is attached to while lifting this engine. I have an apparatus that fits inside the lifter valley for the V8 Ford but of course it doesn't fit the V12. I usually remove the heads and hook the chain up to a stud on each side and like you can lift it in and out with the hood in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Why not just remove the hood? The only time I leave the hood in place is on cars that have a way to disconnect the springs from the hinges and open the hood 90 degrees. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mssr. Bwatoe Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 BOLTS THOUGH CHAIN INTO BLOCK WHERE MANIFOLD WOULD BOLT, OR LIFT FLANGE OR HEAD STUDS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken/Alabama Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 6 hours ago, Bleach said: Why not just remove the hood? The only time I leave the hood in place is on cars that have a way to disconnect the springs from the hinges and open the hood 90 degrees. Because it isn't necessary and I can't remove it by myself and then I have to find somewhere to store it out of the way to keep it from getting paint damage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
detroitsoul Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 This is a good thread and I hope will come in handy soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19tom40 Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 John, on the V-8's, we get a tube of John Deere Cornhead grease and fill the U-Joint with it through the zerk fitting on the cover. The Cornhead gerase is very close to the original U-Joint grease from Ford. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Mc Posted January 30, 2018 Author Share Posted January 30, 2018 Thanks Tom, I have the corn head grease on order ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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