64LesabreJ

1964 Buick LeSabre 4 Door Hardtop Headache

Recommended Posts

18 minutes ago, Frank DuVal said:

 

 

 

 

 

Frank:

 

Thanks so much. Im going to return the stuff I bought in ebay. Tomorrow I have some time carved out to work on the Buick and my vintage motorcycles. I will have a look at the glovebox and the trunk lock for codes. 

 

1. My buick IS a one key car. And yes I can still turn the car on by turning the ignition. Dont need a key for that thankfully. Since the glovebox is easiest, I will have a look at that and let you know what the code is. 
 

 

Edited by 64LesabreJ (see edit history)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

OK, First, you have the GM keys that were used from 1935 to 1966. There were just two blanks, known as B-10, the octagon hed one, and te B-11, the pear headed one. The ones in the picture are later style, 1969 and newer oval headed keys. The keyway is different between these.

 

Those B-10/B-11 keys have the same keyway, they just differ in head design so one could tell their trunk/glove box key from their ignition/door key IF the car used two different keys.

 

First question, did the car originally use two different keys, one that fit doors and ignition, and another one for trunk and glove box, or was it a one key car?

 

Second question in two parts: The ignition lock in your car has "lips" where the key gores in, right? And with the lock in the "Unlock" position aka "OFF", you can just turn the key to start, drive and shut off the car, right?

 

You cannot remove the ring holding the ignition switch without damaging the ring or the switch with this type of cylinder. Do not attempt this. You must remove the ignition cylinder from the switch assembly first. Of course, you need a key to do this..... Instruction is to insert the key, turn cylinder CCW, insert paper clip into hole inn face of cylinder, continue to turn CCW and pull the cylinder out.  As Rusty says, having a big box of old B-10/B-11 keys goes a long way to getting these cylinders out. Locksmiths also have ways to "pick" them to open them. There are way more than 35 keys (1935 to 1966) , but due to worn cylinders/tumblers/keys and "jiggling"  a surprising number of different coded locks can be opened with a key!

 

If it is a one key car, sometimes you can get the 4 digit code off the glove box lock. Sometimes that glove box code is on the cylinder inside the glove lock assembly. That's not convenient, as you also have to take that lock apart (key helps) to read the code. If you can get into the trunk and remove that cylinder, it also has the 4 digit code stamped on it. And then there are the doors. Those locks will have the 4 digit code, even on cars made with two keys. Yes, it is possible to damage some of the door panel in removing it, but I find this the easiest way if there is no key available to remove the ignition lock. YMMV

 

I can code cut those keys on aftermarket blanks, such as Ilsco. So can most old school locksmiths. Message me if you need help.

 

PS, 4 digit code begins with an 8 or 9.

 

Frank DuVal

 

Also  discussed here:

 

 

 

 

 

Frank. one of the door panels was already off so it was easy to get the code off of the door lock. 

Edited by 64LesabreJ
Security (see edit history)
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/18/2018 at 4:33 PM, SC38DLS said:

Be sure to fill with water and flush all fumes out of the tank before you start cutting on it. Otherwise it’s liable to go boom! 

Dave S 

another safty method would be to place a hose from the exhaut pipe of a running engine ti to fill pipe on the tank, CO2 won't support any kind of combustion.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now