philipj

Want to Purchase 37 or 38 Buick Century/Special

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3 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

 

 Loafing along at about 2600-2800 rpm.   Mine runs a couple hundred lower at that speed, due to the 3.4.

 

 

7 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

  No, Neil. I meant the Special. Was basing that off my '50, which came with essentially the same engine.  With a 4.1-1 ratio rear end. I drove it at 65-70 a LOT.

 

 

Okay, now you are really confusing me.  What rear end do you have in your Special?

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4 hours ago, neil morse said:

 

 

Okay, now you are really confusing me.  What rear end do you have in your Special?

 

 Hey, I have been told I am good at that.

 

  Mine came with the 4.1 to 1. I drove it a lot with that rear end, running 65 /70.  From Missouri, where I lived then, to Charlotte, NC an back. I don't recall [  how is that for protecting my a**e? ] the exact rpm but around 32 - 33 hundred. I have it recorded, just to lazy to dig it up . Will later.  In 2012 ,  I think it was,  I changed the gears to a 3.36 to 1 set. This dropped the high gear rpm about 600 rpm.  

 

 Bujt I did drive 65 to 70 with the original 4.1 gears.

 

  Ben

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Going back to the topic of cruising in a Special series 40 with a stock rear end (4.4) and stock tires.. If you're doing 65mph your rpm would be roughly 3,200 correct?

Max horsepower is 100 on the 248 Cu. engine @3400 rpm... Where is the redline on that motor? If everything is 100% mechanically, how long do you suppose you could hold that speed without losing a conn. rod or piston? 

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On 1/15/2018 at 5:37 PM, philipj said:
I am interested in a 1937 or 1938 Buick Century or Special (4 door) sedan... It certainly does not have to be a brand new restoration, just something period correct and properly serviced... I will also consider something that will require minor work to be finished.. I can be reached by email: p_jeanneau@hotmail.com, or on my cell: 754-779-1733 anytime between 9.00am and 9.00pm.
 
I am located in South Florida...
Thank you all for your help...
 
Best regards,
Philip

Here is one more be worth checking out.. Its a 1937 on ebay for 22,500 obo ! Located in new Jersey...

Screenshot_2018-01-21-00-16-26.png

Screenshot_2018-01-21-00-17-03.png

Screenshot_2018-01-21-00-14-43.png

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Thank you for pointing this vehicle Dan..I will pass on this one, since I'm not getting concrete answers from the seller...

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On 1/20/2018 at 8:03 PM, philipj said:

Going back to the topic of cruising in a Special series 40 with a stock rear end (4.4) and stock tires.. If you're doing 65mph your rpm would be roughly 3,200 correct?

Max horsepower is 100 on the 248 Cu. engine @3400 rpm... Where is the redline on that motor? If everything is 100% mechanically, how long do you suppose you could hold that speed without losing a conn. rod or piston? 

 

Anybody knows this answer?

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I try to keep my speed on my 37 special below 55mph. At 60-65 the engine is very uncomfortable. On route 81 here in PA , Maryland and Virginia with some rolling hills , 50 mph uphill and 60 mph down seems comfortable. But even at 60 you feel that you are pushing the car down hill. To me, 50 to 55 is the engines comfortable limit.

Larry

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20 minutes ago, philipj said:

There's no way to know how long you can abuse a motor before it breaks. If a 248 is in top condition, I think it's safe to say you can run it faster than it sounds like it wants to be run. I've always considered the optimum running speed for these long-stroke motors to be something close to where the torque and HP curves cross, and for a 248, it's just under 55 mph. I don't know of any official "red line". There's a pamphlet called " Engineering Features of the 1938 Buick" that's available in reprint that you may find interesting. If you want to drive 70 on the freeway, get a Century or plan on changing the rear end/getting an overdrive, or just relax in the slow lane (except in Los Angeles!).

Anybody knows this answer?

 

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By any means, I did not meant abuse of any kind, just normal driving... Still curious to know what the redline limit is. Wondering how far car I push it if I am ever in a bad situation, that's all... I will look into the pamphlet. Thank you.

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18 hours ago, philipj said:

By any means, I did not meant abuse of any kind, just normal driving... Still curious to know what the redline limit is. Wondering how far car I push it if I am ever in a bad situation, that's all... I will look into the pamphlet. Thank you.

Sorry, "abuse" was a bit harsh. Maybe "pushing the limits"? You can certainly floor it in a passing/evasion situation, but as strong and advanced the design is, it's still eighty year old technology and metal. I recall reading a post by a Series 90 owner who ran his car a couple of hours at 80 until the tired motor blew, but with the cost of a rebuild at $5K-plus, it's not a practice that can be recommended. If your cooling system isn't optimal, the motor will heat up if you push it. Straight 8's generate a lot of heat.

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Pushing the limits is a good phrase, my thought would be more in line with 5-10 minutes at high speed, but you really have to be confident about what you have under the hood... I am finding out that most of these so called "restored" cars are only done on the outside... paint, maybe new wiring and interior but they never touched the drivetrain; and you're also lucky to find them clean on the underside... But they're restored, and people want 25K!

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Again not exactly what you are looking for (wrong year and body style) but I need to find a new home for my 1939 Century Sport Coupe.

I intend to first advertise in the Bugle and if BCA members are not interested then list in Hemmings.

Restored in 1994.....everything original (I am sure the interior was redone then also) and they added the visor, fog lights, and spot lights.

It has the factory front markers, stream boards, and side mounts.

$29,000

#2 _39 Buick Century - 579.JPG

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Although I haven’t driven it yet I put a 3.6 out of a 50 special, third member and torque tube in my 40 special replacing a 4.4. Bolted directly in. I’ve got a 41 twin carb 248 in it.

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I would join your local Buick club chapter and/or contact them (www.buickclub.org) and see if any of their members have any of these years/models for sale.  Usually, a hobbyist would like to see their car(s) get a good 'home' or a future restoration that they could not or did not do over the years of ownership. :)

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Looks like a very nice car, but I would see if there is any flexibility in the price. I would also ask the seller if there are any issues with the vehicle and how much more needs to be done to finish the car. It is a great style. 

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Maybe if you want an expensive Special, with weird seats, weird headliner, a strange non-original radiator, and a few other minor issues... 

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Beauty is certainly in the eye of the beholder, but McHinson is correct that the Special was an entry level car and the price seems high for that.

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The Engine Color looks like a Frog.😉..and yes the Radiator and Shroud  looks like somebody is not interested to have a clean,  original car.

No Pics and Words about the condition of  Underfloor and outside lower sheetmetal area..

I'm always would be very careful to by a Car without my magnet testing (Bondo) ,Roadtest ( Noises from all Components, Rear  and front Axle,Bearings,Kingpins ,Synchros of the 2.and 3. Gear are Ok.? )..

No Leaks ?...especially the Brakes ?...many times i've seen new wheelcylinder on old bad Hoses...

,Pics under the Dash would be also interesting  ( because of a  dangerous ,hot wiring Salad ? ) ...

 

For this less described Car, it was a lot Money...

 

M2C

 

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Now that this has been carefully dissected, I can agree with all about the many imperfections and a high price... Still a very pretty car though!..:)

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