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1 - 1/4 inch NPT pipe die wanted, buy or borrow


trimacar

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Hi- the casting plugs on an engine that I have are 1 - 1/4 inch NPT thread.  For reasons I won't go into here, I need to chase the plugs with a die.

 

A new die, from McMaster Carr, is about $150, not to mention the additional $90 for a die handle.

 

Does anyone have such, used, which I could buy or borrow?  It's a one-time use for me on 8 plugs, so you can understand how I'd be hesitant to get $250 into a wall hanger.

 

Thanks !  David Coco Winchester Va.

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5 minutes ago, jvelde said:

Fastenal is way up there in price as well, maybe a local machine shop would chase the threads for you for a nominal fee.

 

The problem with using a local machine shop is I need to chase and fit, fit and chase.  I won't get into the whole story, let's just say that the plugs have to be modified to fit, and the modification makes the taper slightly off.

 

The Harbor Freight solution might work.  I don't need to cut threads, just get them down a little deeper, if that makes sense. 

 

I didn't think about H-F, thanks!

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Well, I didn't think about a rental store either, although I have 8 plugs to fit, so it might take a few days (part time) of rental, so maybe better buying H-F.  As mentioned on another post, I believe in time travel, since I have a time machine, my garage.  I go in the garage to do a 30 minute job, and when I come out 8 hours have gone by!

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5 minutes ago, ArticiferTom said:

Any local or friends that are plumbers or electricians will have .

 

Yes, when I was in industry, it wouldn't have been a problem, I'm now 5 years retired and removed from those connections!

 

Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone....

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Yes, that's it, like the kind they use to thread black pipe is correct.  It's NPT thread, which is tapered.  The threads in the two jugs are nice, but due to modifications made to plugs, they need to be run through a die and cleaned up.

3 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

Coming to Fredericksburg?

Wish I was!  And it's too expensive to ship, wouldn't want it lost!  My Suburban would burn more gas than the set from Harbor Freight would cost, although I realize what you have is much higher quality.....

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All I really need is the die, don't need the handle...the plugs have square drives cast into them, so I can put the die in a vise and then just use a drive on the plug....and yes, I have a vise big enough, I'd be willing to bet virtually no one else on this forum has as big a vise as mine (and of course as I'm typing that, know I'll be proved wrong!)...

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Trim car, if you look at the Rigid, pipe die pictured you can see that the taper starts at the back of the die, (where his hand is). You may have to reverse the dies to chase your threads if they are too shallow to insert into the die. It's easy to do, but each die insert is numbered from 1 to 4 and must remain in that sequence, and use oil on the threads.

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I collect letterhead stationary, and David had a great one back in his Stoddard Dayton days, I'll need your current address to send the 1 1/4 Ridgid die, I can send the handle without the length of pipe for the same amount in a Flat rate box. Return postage is on you. Bob :)

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I love flat rate boxes.  My brother in Mississippi had a bunch of nuts and bolts he didn't want, put them in a large flat rate box, almost 60 pounds!  Fifteen bucks or so flat rate to ship.....

 

Thanks for the help guy and guys, and my 1910 Buick thanks you too,

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David, if the HF tool is the way you wind up going be aware of the of the multi set of dies. I purchased a set in the range your talking about they looked really like they were up to the task I had for them. I got about three complete turns on the 3/4 die and two of the cutters came loose and butchered the job. Not a fun experience for sure. It may have been just the set I  got. Just trying to get a word to the wise here.

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3 hours ago, ols car dog said:

You would be amazed at what you find at a pawn shop

I bought mine at a local auction, turned out a somewhat local (Manassas) electrical contractor had retired. Lots of bargains picked up. I paid maybe $25 for this item. I went because of the autos and automotive tools being old (mixed lots auction). It has come in handy many times. I have those Rigid pipe threaders like Bob shows, but not in 1 1/4".

 

David, I'll b;)e in Winchester for the Virginia Vair Fair in May (Our annual Corvair show). You probably need it waaay sooner than that!:D

 

Having been to Berryville many times, I can tell you it is a 3 1/2 hour round trip plus from my house. Postage for borrowing Bob's tool will be cheaper than fuel in the Suburban!

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10 hours ago, Mark Simmons said:

David, if the HF tool is the way you wind up going be aware of the of the multi set of dies. I purchased a set in the range your talking about they looked really like they were up to the task I had for them. I got about three complete turns on the 3/4 die and two of the cutters came loose and butchered the job. Not a fun experience for sure. It may have been just the set I  got. Just trying to get a word to the wise here.

For Sure !  If you want the low-down on HF tools and supplies read Skinned Knuckles. 

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Guess I'm a little late. I've got a bunch of that pipe stuff at my Dads over in Orange Va. I'm in New York at the moment though. If something does not work out or you need it again don't hesitate to message me. I'll be back down there soon. Oh, And my pipe stuff is made by Ridgid. You can't go wrong with a quality tool. Dandy Dave! 

 

Edited by Dandy Dave (see edit history)
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Funny, I'd never heard of Orange Va. until yesterday, when a friend called and said he was going to a wedding there later this year.  Now I hear about it the second time in two days!

 

thanks for offer!  You guys are the best, aw shucks....

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Thanks Bob!  As soon as I get it, I'll start working on the plugs. 

 

If I carefully plan my work and really rush the job, I  shouldn't take more than two or three weeks to get the 8 plugs done (he says, tongue in cheek)....

 

Thanks for all the help guys!

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Quote

 

 

On ‎1‎/‎16‎/‎2018 at 12:15 AM, Dave Mellor NJ said:

Know that plumbers'pipe threads are different (tapered) than electricians' (straight, or chased) Tapered makes a watertight fit when tightened. Straight can run a lock nut all the way up the thread

  You are correct Dave , forgot to mention will cut deep fast with electrical dies . Thank You .

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A post note on one of the suggestions.  I ran into one of the contractors I worked with, they actually do fire systems, which is mostly threaded black iron pipe.

 

I asked him, hey, y'all do all different size pipes, right?  Sure, he said, usually up to two inch.  OK, I asked him, could I borrow a 1 -1/4 inch die from you?  Ummmmm, no, sorry, you can't, that's how we make our living is with our tools, and we don't loan them out at all.....

 

So, that would have been a dead end too....

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On 1/16/2018 at 12:15 AM, Dave Mellor NJ said:

Know that plumbers'pipe threads are different (tapered) than electricians' (straight, or chased) Tapered makes a watertight fit when tightened. Straight can run a lock nut all the way up the thread

 100% correct on that one. As a retired electrician over the years I could not even tell you how many a times in a pinch we would use the plumbers or the fitters dies to cut a thread. We could get away using their dies but they could not use ours without having a lot of leak issues.

I am sure that you know already but make sure that you use a lot of heavy cutting oil, you can even use motor oil but do not use tapping fluid or WD 40, you will crud up the dies reals fast  

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I know I'm in the minority, I don't have a can of WD-40 in my garage, and really don't like the stuff. It's worthless as a lubricant, and as far as rust goes, if I need to free up a rusted situation, Kroil is it for me, never found anything that works better.

 

I'll probably use motor oil, thanks for the suggestion.  I'm not cutting threads, just dressing them up, as the plugs already have threads on them.  For reasons I won't go into here, the threads need to be chased in order to fit correctly.  These are NPT for sure, tapered, both the thread in the casting holes in the jugs and the plugs.

 

The other part of this equation is that the plugs don't have to be water tight.  Once they're fit correctly, I'll remove them, and maybe even put JB Weld on the plugs and screw them in.  They're forever, not meant to be removed for any reason.

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Since bicycle riding days I would never ever use WD-40. I have never had a can of it in my shop. My cousin and I kept our bikes in Grandpa's garage.  I oiled my chain with engine oil and got in s..t for getting it on my pants leg.  My cousin used WD-40, it didn't come off on his pants but his chain rusted solid in a couple of months.  It is NOT a lubricant.

 

https://www.wd40.com/cool-stuff/history

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7 hours ago, trimacar said:

I know I'm in the minority, I don't have a can of WD-40 in my garage, and really don't like the stuff. It's worthless as a lubricant, and as far as rust goes, if I need to free up a rusted situation, Kroil is it for me, never found anything that works better.

 

I'll probably use motor oil, thanks for the suggestion.  I'm not cutting threads, just dressing them up, as the plugs already have threads on them.  For reasons I won't go into here, the threads need to be chased in order to fit correctly.  These are NPT for sure, tapered, both the thread in the casting holes in the jugs and the plugs.

 

The other part of this equation is that the plugs don't have to be water tight.  Once they're fit correctly, I'll remove them, and maybe even put JB Weld on the plugs and screw them in.  They're forever, not meant to be removed for any reason.

 

Even more reason not to use WD-40, a lot of people think it is a lubricant and it is not, pipe dies are real aggressive and you really do want to make sure it cleans up nice. Because you are cleaning something up I would clean of the dies with some brake clean and make sure all of the crud is out of the teeth

good luck

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3 hours ago, Restorer32 said:

Dace, I'm sure you know this but I would feel bad if I didn't remind you that tapered threads in cast iron can turn catastrophic in an instant if over tightened.

 

Thanks, I'll be extra careful.  As mentioned, I actually want a loose fit, that will get snug with very little force.  I'll put some kind of permanent sealant on the threads. 

 

Good advice, though......

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On 1/17/2018 at 12:38 PM, trimacar said:

A post note on one of the suggestions.  I ran into one of the contractors I worked with, they actually do fire systems, which is mostly threaded black iron pipe.

 

I asked him, hey, y'all do all different size pipes, right?  Sure, he said, usually up to two inch.  OK, I asked him, could I borrow a 1 -1/4 inch die from you?  Ummmmm, no, sorry, you can't, that's how we make our living is with our tools, and we don't loan them out at all.....

 

So, that would have been a dead end too....

That is the kind of contractor that gives his profession a bad name. 

When I was contracting we would help our community in any way we could. If the small job looked like it might be beyond their expertise, we would have our shop guys weld, cut, or thread small jobs. I have been retired 12 years, so maybe times have changed. Too bad, good PR goes a long way. 

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On 1/17/2018 at 3:32 PM, trimacar said:

I'm not cutting threads, just dressing them up, as the plugs already have threads on them.  For reasons I won't go into here, the threads need to be chased in order to fit correctly.  These are NPT for sure, tapered, both the thread in the casting holes in the jugs and the plugs.

The other part of this equation is that the plugs don't have to be water tight.  Once they're fit correctly, I'll remove them, and maybe even put JB Weld on the plugs and screw them in.  They're forever, not meant to be removed for any reason.

Now I'm really curious.  Just what is it that you are doing?  How about some pictures?

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