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Will the front ABS wheel sensor from '89 Pontiac Bonneville-SSE-fit a Reatta

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If the picture shown is the actual ABS lead removed it will work... but only on the rear axle.

 The bolt down portion of the head is "in line" not at a 90 degree angle to the lead as you would need for the front axle.

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The picture looks like a rear lead anyway, the cable isn't long enough for a front sensor lead. That said, it would be electrically compatible provided you could find a way to mount it and had enough slack to plug it in to the body side harness. 

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Food for thought. Mostly all the abs sensors for GM ( there are exceptions ) but mostly all are the same the sensors and are actually ( Liken to a battery) of 1.5 volts the difference in them is the mounting and the length of the wire. If you remove the bracket from the old sensor and the bracket from the new sensor then install the old bracket on the new sensor you can re-install it. If the wire is shorter then the old sensor cut the wire and connector off the old sensor and solder it on the new sensor. Doesn't work all the time ....But most of the time it does. ......This is the only way I can respond to any inquiries. I'm not being given an opportunity to respond anywhere else.  I should have used the term "liken to a battery" this was how it was put to me when I attended the GM technical training center in Warren, Michigan.     

Edited by retiredmechanic74
I'm locked out from normal responses. (see edit history)

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Make sure you measure the length of the barrel first. Have seen two different lengths and a short one in a long cavity won't work and a long in short will hit the teeth.

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For some reason,  the Cadillacs usually had longer barrels than other GM Teves equipped cars. A spacer could be fabricated to use those in a pinch as they were electrically identical. I have some NOS leads meant for a SAAB that are the same way, about 1/4" too long versus those used on a Reatta. A bit of tooling for an offset shim needed to install, but not to big a deal. I figure I'll use up my supply of correct leads before I go to that effort. That will probably be a while.

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4 hours ago, retiredmechanic74 said:

Food for thought. Mostly all the abs sensors for GM ( there are exceptions ) but mostly all are the same the sensors and are actually a battery of 1.5 volts

 

There's a 1.5 vdc battery inside of the lead? Wouldn't that go flat after 30 years?

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It was stated in an early post"  but mostly all are the same the sensors and are actually a battery of 1.5 volts "

Or didn't you read it?

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23 hours ago, retiredmechanic74 said:

Food for thought. Mostly all the abs sensors for GM ( there are exceptions ) but mostly all are the same the sensors and are actually a battery of 1.5 volts the difference in them is the mounting and the length of the wire.

Could you please explain that. I have to admit I don't know what you are talking about.

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Perhaps alluding to the fact that the sensor lead generates a small induced AC voltage as the teeth on the reluctor gear pass the end of the barrel? However, said voltage is less than 1.5 volts and is not DC, but rather AC, as the frequency of the signal is used to determine the wheel speed and in turn the need for anti-lock braking to activate.when the delta between wheel speed readings is outside normal range. That's my guess, but could been expressed a bit more clearly.

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26 minutes ago, KDirk said:

Perhaps alluding to the fact that the sensor lead generates a small induced AC voltage as the teeth on the reluctor gear pass the end of the barrel? However, said voltage is less than 1.5 volts

Perhaps when he says 1.5 volts in terms of a "battery" he is referring to all the sensors as a "battery of sensors" generating a total of 1.5 volts?? Just guessing...

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Too complicated for me, however I just got back from Kendall's house and I now have 6 reconditioned leads for sale...

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Forum member retiredmechanic74 is having problems accessing the forum that are beyond his control. He messaged me and said he will post again when he can.

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I'm dense sometimes (at least I admit it) I know how a "magneto" (like a lawn mower) works- flywheel has a magnet, it moves by a "pickup" that captures the magnetic field moving by, briefly capacitates it, amplifies it, then dumps the amplified charge to ground- via a spark plug or light bulb. Ok- so how does a simple chunk (tooth) of metal, moving by the pickup (coil of wire around a magnet) induce an AC sine wave? Is it like a guitar pickup?

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58 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

Read up on Magnetic Reluctance. It's complicated.

 

That may have sounded like I was giving you a short answer but the truth is I don't fully understand it myself.

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4 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Read up on Magnetic Reluctance. It's complicated.

 

Whew. I think I overheated a few brain cells, and maybe forgot a few things- just trying to take it all in:blink: I was correct about a WSS being "like a guitar pickup" except the string is the Exciter wheel. They even provided a neat .gif 

 

                                                                                                         

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_reluctance

 

Single_coil_string_anim.gif.f17076dd43ed1503d5a58c5f41b543f7.gif

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HEY guys,  I'm finely allowed back on the forum. It seems that new members are only allowed to post, respond, or send messages or answer messages a total of 10 times a day for the first month ( something to do with controlling spam) But now that I'm back I need to clear up what I said about the abs sensor being a battery. I should have said "liken to a battery" The term I used earlier was put to me when I was attending classes at the GM Technical training Center in Warren, Michigan.  I was referring to it as a way that it sends its signal to the controller. (my bad) I have swapped out these sensors (using modifications) and for the most part was successful. But to be frank...I never liked ABS and still don't.  On cars and trucks that I've owned I disabled the ABS I like having control over my panic modes. 

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As one who has reconditioned these leads, I can tell you that these leads are really coaxial cable [ at least on the 1988-1990]. Back in the day when I was first redoing them we would just cut the cable completely through. Then we would slid off the mounting rubbers and then slid on shrink tubing and heat shrink them down. We would then slide over a large diameter shrink tube, do our coaxial repair [just like an antenna wire] and then slide that large diameter shrink tube over the top of the antenna repair coupling and heat shrink it down to a water tight seal. It works great and is a quick and easy repair, however it just doesn't look "factory" so is a hard sell. I had a few of these type repaired leads laying around and sold them to automotive repair shops for installs on the cars they repaired. They weren't fussy about looks, but wanted a good repair which is what they got.

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1 hour ago, DAVES89 said:

it just doesn't look "factory" so is a hard sell.

 

OMG I hate people like that.

 

1 hour ago, DAVES89 said:

They weren't fussy about looks, but wanted a good repair which is what they got.

 

That's me.

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