first64riv Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Hey guys, The rubber gasket on my pan is leaking a little and I have a couple of cork gaskets I got on clearance. Should I even try to use them or should I just source another rubber gasket? If I do use the cork gasket, do I need to pre-treat it with anything to ensure a leak free installation? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 I don't think it makes any difference. But, when you take the pan off, take a hammer and a dolly and make sure that there are no dimpled holes. When you put the pan back on, don't over tighten the bolts and create more dimples. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 I think that depends on the condition of the gasket. If it has dried or shrunk, you might try soaking it in warm water for awhile to rejuvenate it. Assuming it's in good shape, you might tack it to the case to keep it in place during installation, but a lot of folks caution against using RTV or similar products along with the gasket. Remember, the gasket is supposed to seal by itself. If the pan is flat and you don't overtighten the bolts, you should be good to go. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1965rivgs Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 I would strongly recommend going with cork in this application. No special prep or sealers are necessary but a very light coat of a sealer like RTV isnt going to hurt. All that is needed is a light skim coat of the sealer, dont use so much it will squeeze out or make the gasket "squirm" Tom Mooney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted December 10, 2017 Author Share Posted December 10, 2017 Do opinions change if I say that my pan is an aftermarket steel one? The cheap type you get summit with the drain plug. That's where the rubber gasket came from and I wasn't sure if this pan had to have rubber. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 42 minutes ago, first64riv said: Do opinions change if I say that my pan is an aftermarket steel one? The cheap type you get summit with the drain plug. That's where the rubber gasket came from and I wasn't sure if this pan had to have rubber. Chris Should have gone for the deep cast aluminum pan with cooling fins and a drain plug.? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodneybeauchamp Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 4 hours ago, RivNut said: Should have gone for the deep cast aluminum pan with cooling fins and a drain plug.? Slightly off topic, but does anyone do a pan for the 63 Dynaflow that has a drain plug, perhaps deeper pan? Just curious. thanks Rodney Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted December 11, 2017 Author Share Posted December 11, 2017 10 hours ago, RivNut said: Should have gone for the deep cast aluminum pan with cooling fins and a drain plug.? Ummm...I probably saw a pan of that sort but likely decided against it. Maybe I'll put my old pan back in with the cork gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 My leaky old cork was bleeding after sitting in a garage for years. Like Mr. Bernie stated, let her run 100 miles and she'll seal herself up. Thus she did. Cork - the natural sealant. No aids needed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 So I picked up some 5/16-18 x 3/4" stainless hex bolts (serrated) and installed them on the section where the pan was leaking. I used three bolts so far. So far so good but that's just sitting stationary. I'll fire it up and take it for a ride this weekend. If it holds up well, I'll do the rest. I also put some Loctite on the bolts. I'm still using the rubber gasket for now. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 Better have some anti-seize on the stainless bolts. These will weld themselves to the aluminum case in nothing flat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 7 hours ago, steelman said: Better have some anti-seize on the stainless bolts. These will weld themselves to the aluminum case in nothing flat. I was afraid it might. So stainless and aluminum are not a good combo? What about zinc plated? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KongaMan Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 Are you replacing the bolts piecemeal without dropping the pan? As Ed pointed out earlier, the problem could be that the pan was previously overtightened and the lip was distorted. If that's the situation, you'd be well advised to remove the pan and bang it flat again. Of course, you won't know if that's the case unless you drop the pan and look at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelman Posted December 13, 2017 Share Posted December 13, 2017 8 hours ago, first64riv said: I was afraid it might. So stainless and aluminum are not a good combo? What about zinc plated? Chris Nothing wrong with the combo if done correctly. Stainless bolts will gall in any metal without anti-seize on the threads. Aluminum is about the worst because it is so soft. If the bolts lock up on removal, you will break the transmission case before you break the bolt. Neither is a good thing to happen. I am in the process now of putting a 56 Ford pickup together with 100% stainless fasteners. But we always add the anti-seize before installing a bolt, even one that will have to come right back out after mockup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
first64riv Posted December 13, 2017 Author Share Posted December 13, 2017 6 hours ago, steelman said: Nothing wrong with the combo if done correctly. Stainless bolts will gall in any metal without anti-seize on the threads. Aluminum is about the worst because it is so soft. If the bolts lock up on removal, you will break the transmission case before you break the bolt. Neither is a good thing to happen. I am in the process now of putting a 56 Ford pickup together with 100% stainless fasteners. But we always add the anti-seize before installing a bolt, even one that will have to come right back out aft I'll pick some up. Chris 15 hours ago, KongaMan said: Are you replacing the bolts piecemeal without dropping the pan? As Ed pointed out earlier, the problem could be that the pan was previously overtightened and the lip was distorted. If that's the situation, you'd be well advised to remove the pan and bang it flat again. Of course, you won't know if that's the case unless you drop the pan and look at it. I have no issue removing the pan...but i'd REALLY rather not. Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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