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Carolina Roadmasters: Collect all 4 - '38 Roadmaster Model 87


38Buick 80C

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37 minutes ago, Jack56C said:

Not sure if it helps, but I have a never used H78-15 Commander wide whitewall that you can have if it matches the others. It is a 'brand new' 20 plus year old tire.

Jack

 

Thanks Jack, but will probably get a tire to match the 80C (might need a full set based on the age of the tires. and probably gonna paint the wheels Dante Red to match the 80C so I have 11 wheels to interchange between the 2 cars.

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7 minutes ago, aestorrs said:

Brian-

Are you going to take some day time photos of the car around the homestead?

Very nice car I hope you have fun with the car.

Al Storrs

I have to wash it... And it's cold!!!! Well for NC... Hopefully it will get up to the high 40s so I can get a quick wash in...

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I took it out on the highway today on the way home from the NC Title inspection location... It was very darty... Wondering if the knuckles, king pins and tie rods need to be replaced...

 

Think I'm about to fall in to the trap of ..."Well while I fix this I might as well fix..."...full restoration...

 

Engine wise she runs good... I think I have deciphered the "code" of reliable starting with that non-factory choke knob.

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Using the manual choke is probably easier than getting the original automatic choke working correctly. However, are you going to fix the automatic choke?

One of the great things about having a "non perfect" car is that you dont have to worry about it when you use it - as long as it is reliable. So what if the inner fenders are dirty.

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39 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

How old are those tires?

And it's worthwhile for any new acquisition, especially those which have not seen much recent use, to pack front wheel bearings (establish a baseline for future maintenance), bleed hydraulic brakes, and check front end wear.  I lift one front wheel at a time and shake each at 9 o'clock and 3 o'clock, check for play in the steering wheel, etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/12/2017 at 9:59 AM, MrEarl said:

Uhhh, don't forget to put the cover back on the starter solenoid.? ? (Inside joke eh Mr McHinson? ) ?

You know I finally put that cover back on...after dad took it for a spin and then mentioned he had one he could go be me...it only took weeks!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Mr. Earl you may want to move this to Me and My Buick now.

 

I couldn't deal with the lack of fuel gauge. So I decided to attempt to get it going. Plus the wrong colors on the gauges (numbers and speedo face). So using my spare instrument panel I pieced together one out of two.

 

I was moderately successful on fixing things not working.

 

So aside from appearance issues before

1.gas guage didn't work

2. Water temp guage didn't work

3. Odometer didn't work

 

Now

1. Gas guage works... But shows 1/4 tank after I filled the tank to the brim.

2. Odometer works, but speedo jumps all over the place.

3. Water temp I didn't attempt to fix.

4. Blinkers stopped working???

 

I'll take another shot next week

 

 

I also changed out

1. The clock

2. The horn button and ring

3. The radio bezel (and cleaned up things) you will see the original wood grain I found under the radio bezel.IMG_20171203_153721.thumb.jpg.e40e94ed5bef8f3454e1cde895ce31ae.jpg

 

IMG_20171203_150921.thumb.jpg.6c27760b0e7bff6821c73031337e3488.jpgIMG_20171203_141848.thumb.jpg.d7583658d0210c1e1c85e0d2059be114.jpgIMG_20171203_141845.thumb.jpg.b64c2db0c019547809da9bc6fe251f9f.jpg

 

IMG_20171203_153724.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C
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After taking the speedo in and out a half dozen times and combining two speedo's into one I have one good looking and now fully functional speedo and odo. I also got the turn signals working again. something had come unplugged. And my gas guage is showing signs of life in that it read full briefly today during a ride. I believe it is a sending unit grounding issue.

 

I do have to say it is SOOO much fun to get in a car that start every time and doesn't seem to have any electrical gremlins aside from the the ones I created myself. I've been happy as a clam driving it here and there. I got my "permanent" storage lined up so it goes away for the winter this weekend. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

Resurrecting this thread from the dust bin.

 

My plan in my head had been for some time that after the BCA National Meet this year to be held in Charlotte I would begin a restoration on this car. Mainly because the car leaks so much oil from the front of the motor somewhere (likely cause the gaskets have never been replaced because they are part of the engine mount). Since the Charlotte meet has been postponed to 2025 and since I have completed the restoration on my 1969 Charger and more or less my '30 Series 61 this is the last one left to be restored I've decided to begin the restoration and I have been collecting all the reproduction parts and generally getting ready to tear down the car for the past several months. 

 

Since the last post on this topic I've been making misc. improvements like having the running boards redone. With Hunley Acuff no longer doing boards I sent these off to across the Norther border and paid even more than Acuff charges. I'm not pleased with the results Acuff's were outstanding these are simply better than what I had and we will leave it at that.

 

My goal for the car is a 400 pt restoration frame off restoration of outstanding quality since there are only 6 of these known left to exist. I will be going back to the original Gainsborough Blue exterior paint and Grey interior (but bedford cord in lieu of broadcloth).

 

Pending a drive to the upholstery shop to confirm the yards of fabric to buy I'm set to begin tear down on labor day weekend (happens to also be my birthday weekend so I get to whatever I want... the wife said so). My goal is to bring the chrome bits to Hershey for drop off at Paul's Chrome along with the dash for woodgraining by Seybold who did my 80C. The rest of the woodgraining will be done by my dad. Once the car is stripped and motor pulled the car body and rolling chassis will go to the paint shop I use adjacent to the sandblaster (media technically) I use. The body will be removed from the chassis and placed on a rotisserie. There is some wood body rails that will need to be replaced along with rotted out lower cowls prior to paint by said shop. The chassis I believe is just tweaked a bit too so that will need to be corrected. Once it is, the rolling chassis will come back to me and I will tear it all the way down and restore it. I will also do the motor build less the machine work myself along with all the mechanical and most all the general assembly. Now having completed 3 AACA Sr. level restoration once which was a National award nominee and one which one Best of Autfair and a Concours Best Buick award I'm confident in myself, but I want to take this car to a level I haven't ever done before. 

 

Various bits will need to be sent off (like the front shocks, radiator recore, etc.) and I plan on powder coating many bits in lieu of Imron paint like I did on the 80C. My goal is to be done in time for the now 2025 Charlotte National and AACA National meets of that year.

 

So here are the last "before pictures" and then look for some serious tear down in 2 weeks time.

image000001.jpg.74a603298f5bbf2034b480bf3359afd1.jpg

image000002.jpg.18710232a99c96be835a1df9e0640996.jpg

image000000.jpg.2a147b1c2c8ea0812d5523371f353e8a.jpg

 

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So I was able to get a little bit of unexpected garage time today. I actually hadn't really planned to do the tear down for other reason I hope to mention soon, but with Hershey on the horizon I want to get much of the chrome to Paul's Chrome and along with the dash to Seybold for woodgraining. So I focused on those items, but first i should mention my trip to the upholstery shop. 

 

I took the car to the upholstery shop that has done work on all my cars. It's about a 20-25 min trip from the house via the interstate and side streets. This car has always been very reliable despite the oil leaking. On the ride home I was within 2 miles of my exist when she stumbled and pulled off at an earlier exit. The slower speed seemed to help and I got within a mile of the house when she finally stalled. After sitting blocking a lane of traffic for 5-10 minutes I manage to get her re-fired and made my way home. I suspect vapor lock as it was very warm. So a somewhat eventful last journey... and since then she managed to go Exxon Valdez in the garage, so it's time...

image000004.jpg.fe605ae2e236b95701724e25e8d9b7a8.jpg

 

I have a LOT of spare parts and some nice repro stuff so much of the chrome on the car actually doesn't have to go to Hershey, so I focused on the pieces that do. Bumpers, bumper guards, grill halves, vent window frames, etc.

 

I believe the left rear bumper support is tweaked. see below comparing right and left (and my blue shoes apparently). Shape of the left one is just much tighter curves in most every curved place on the support.  I will need a replacement and I know from experience how hard those are to find for the big series good thing it is one of the last pieces to go back on the car.

image000007.jpg.e1a2b4d83cc8b46a96b5fa1a6b974a29.jpgimage000000.jpg.bde33e2be74861ffa13c952a75bdd6a2.jpg

 

I suspect this car had a left rear impact at some point.

 

The other thing for Hershey is the dash. After removing the window surround and not being able to free any screws I believe it was painted in the car and has never been out. Think I will end up having to drill out the screws, but we will see.

image000001.jpg.92cd0bb62a0fcc34e69bc993c6acf53c.jpgimage000003.jpg.1a2455e1369c1035aa8be3a25be9ac99.jpgimage000002.jpg.d2835678f3943b4365417cb1acbf48b4.jpg

 

I did manage to get the bumpers and grills out along with some other trunk hardware and one vent window frame (not pictured)

image000006.jpg.3103fef7f3efeeb3a1a40f50aeaae9b1.jpgimage000005.jpg.34e185084d63419f1b7e0eb5006f167a.jpg

 

Next weekend I really want that dash out and the other vent window frame and with those and one minor item off the dash I am ready for Hershey. Second goal for the weekend is complete body front removal and rear fenders . Stretch goal is interior removal.

 

 

 

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Spray all of those dash screws down with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF and let them sit overnight to allow the solvent to soak in. I would bet you can remove all of the screws with no problem after that. That worked for disassembly of everything on my 1938 Century that sat outside for over 20 years near Boston.  

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9 hours ago, MCHinson said:

Spray all of those dash screws down with a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF and let them sit overnight to allow the solvent to soak in. I would bet you can remove all of the screws with no problem after that. That worked for disassembly of everything on my 1938 Century that sat outside for over 20 years near Boston.  

 

have several things sprayed that aren't moving.

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I had to complete a honey do project yesterday that took way longer than it should.

 

With regard to acetone/atf mix I do use it it I like to use this tool.

IMG_20210905_070528.jpg.08531ea9b66183166c29fd919034a759.jpg

 

It uses magnetic induction to heat the bolts works oki do have to say I don't enjoy working on old dirty stuff and the previous owner did some lovely hack job stuff I have found.

 

I focused on the chrome pieces I want to bring to Hershey so I got the foot rest bracket and vent windows out.

IMG_20210905_070520.jpg.6971e24469b7836c4eeef21ea8a5a8a2.jpgIMG_20210905_074902.jpg.9398cbedac0aa390671335628b3338bc.jpg

Edited by 38Buick 80C (see edit history)
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