Guyver280Z

Trunk release and Door unlocks keep going off intermittently.

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So, I bought a 1989 Reatta with 88,000 miles, its in super clean conditions. But one of the things I noticed when I bought it is that the trunk and door activate themselves intermittently as soon as you open the switch.

First I tried to disconnect the back key switch since I know those get wet and start failing, so even when disconnected the trunk release kept popping every 5 seconds, so I plugged it back and then replaced the relay in the trunk. But it kept popping open every 5 seconds, noticed that when I remove the relay both the trunk and the door locks stop activating. I also removed the Fuse #2 (BODY) and it all stops, but of course also the interior lights, locks, etc stop working as well, but this is the only way to stop them from activating itself. I also removed the glove box and disconnected the trunk release switch to make sure it wasn't a faulty switch, but even with the switch disconnected the trunk keeps popping open. Notice that both the trunk and the driver's side unlock at the same time every 5 seconds when the switch is on.

Could this be something related to the Parking switch or to the alarm? Or maybe this car had an FOB and for some reason it thinks the unlock and trunk release buttons are pressed?? I already did an exhaustive search on the forum and I can't find anybody with a similar issue.

 

On top of that, I believe the photocell might be bas as well since the dash/console lights don't turn on, they do while the light show. BUT my dashboard is in fairly good shape and just barely trying to pop that dash cover started cracking it like crazy and I don't want to destroy it. I also tried the bent metal tools to pull the dash cover and the dash cover started cracking, so my question is, is there a way to bypass the photocell?? Is there a wire I can splice and connect directly so the lights are on when I push the lights button?

 

Thanks for the help!!

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1) Recondition both sides under seat ground splices.

 

2) There is no "workaround" for a faulty photocell. If the dash cracks- it's repairable. Careful and precise positioning and usage of the recommended metal tool is crucial to a successful extraction of the dash. I sounds nasty when the clips are releasing.

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You have to follow the directions exactly to get the dash pad off. This starts with removing the defroster trim panel [the narrow panel with all the vent holes in it]. Then remove the three screws. Then using the metal lifting tool positioned at all the correct points. Instructions can be found on Ronnies website [Reatta owners journal].

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I would check the remote entry controller.

I worked on a 90 convertible that started with the trunk then the doors started locking and unlocking.

We unplugged the controller and the problem went away.

Unless you replace the unit, you will loose the use of the remote!

On a coupe the controller is behind the driver..directly under the shoulder belt retractor.

You must remove the rear compartment plastic panel to access the controller.

On a convertible it is near the floor, between the seats...on the cabin side of the divider between the trunk and cabin.

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5 hours ago, Barney Eaton said:

I would check the remote entry controller.

I worked on a 90 convertible that started with the trunk then the doors started locking and unlocking.

We unplugged the controller and the problem went away.

Unless you replace the unit, you will loose the use of the remote!

On a coupe the controller is behind the driver..directly under the shoulder belt retractor.

You must remove the rear compartment plastic panel to access the controller.

On a convertible it is near the floor, between the seats...on the cabin side of the divider between the trunk and cabin.

Thanks so much. I don't have the FOB so I don't care about the controller, so I'm going to try to just disconnect it and see if that fixes it.

Thanks so much for the info guys!!

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So, I disconnected the Remote Control box and now everything is back to normal!

I was planning on adding an aftermarket alarm anyways. I already added a secondary lock servo to the doors so now they lock and unlock like a brand new car!

 

For the photocell issue I'm really dissapointed that there's only one way to fix that issue. I searched for the metal tool to remove thr dash pad and I couldn't find anything. Is there a link to a photo of this tool to make mine?

 

Thanks!!

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3 hours ago, Guyver280Z said:

So, I disconnected the Remote Control box and now everything is back to normal!

I was planning on adding an aftermarket alarm anyways

 

That's a quick and dirty hack to solve your problem- but it took care of it. I would've preferred the proper procedure-

 

GROUND SPLICE REPAIR  but oh, well.

 

Fabrication and usage of the tool is here---> http://reattaowner.com/roj/86-body-a-interior/body-interior/142-dash-pad-removal-instructions

 

Procedure for photocell replacement is here---> http://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=59:interior-lights&id=192:twilight-sensor-photocell-replacement

 

Alternate ideas--> http://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=59:interior-lights&id=191:twilight-sensor-photocell-alternative

 

Photos of my own '89 repair-->

 

DCP_4631.thumb.JPG.ec9f1c41a59bc6c43161c7a75fecfcab.JPG DCP_4634.thumb.JPG.f828ef450498f6a73e1bb64b71ee0355.JPG

 

3 hours ago, Guyver280Z said:

For the photocell issue I'm really dissapointed that there's only one way to fix that issue.

 

If you purchased the proper FSM for Reatta maybe you could trace the wires, and splice in a photocell anywhere you want, as long as ambient daylight hits it.

 

Maybe- you could drill pilot holes, and cut out a flap in the firewall, near it? Reach in, change it, bend flap back down, JB Weld & paint. If you're careful and clean- nobody would ever notice.

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