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Red Riviera Bob

Newly buffed Cast Aluminum Rims for a 63 Red Riviera

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Nice.

 

Ever use Mothers?  Will make aluminum almost mirror like.

 

 

shopping.jpg

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1 hour ago, PWB said:

Nice.

 

Ever use Mothers?  Will make aluminum almost mirror like.

 

 

shopping.jpg

Is this safe for chrome plated Rallye wheels and stainless steel trim also? 

Edited by NCRiviera (see edit history)
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14 minutes ago, NCRiviera said:

Is this safe for chrome plated Rallye wheels and stainless steel trim also? 

I've copied and pasted this from the Mother's website 

"Welcome to Wax Forum

Mag & Aluminum Polish can scratch modern chromes, and this is one reason why we don't recommend its use except in situations where there is severe rust or other challenges."

 

 

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22 minutes ago, RivNut said:

can scratch modern chromes,

What is recommended for SS and chrome for removing light scratches?  

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45 minutes ago, NCRiviera said:

What is recommended for SS and chrome for removing light scratches?  

White rouge buffing compound and cotton buffing wheel for SS does great.

I wouldn't touch chrome. Its usually < 0.001 inch. Go beyond that and bye bye chrome.

De-chromed areas can be buffed and coated with clear coatings.

 

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3 hours ago, NCRiviera said:

What is recommended for SS and chrome for removing light scratches?  

Scratches in stainless can be removed . Check youtube for a DIY video.  Scratches in chrome are permanent.

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5 hours ago, lrlforfun said:

OK Riviera Bob: Come on now, what's your secret?  Mitch

 

4 hours ago, NCRiviera said:

Is this safe for chrome plated Rallye wheels and stainless steel trim also? 

I use it and I agree Mother’s is great stuff.

 

5 hours ago, lrlforfun said:

OK Riviera Bob: Come on now, what's your secret?  Mitch

Mitch no JB Weld on this project.

A local Rimrenew owner was intrigued with my project of cleaning up the cast aluminum. He liked me I guess and said let him paint the cast aluminum. He then gave directions on getting an ORBiTAl mini sander. Then he gave me the list of 2” grit sanding discs to get. ( 320,400,600,800, 1000,2000, and 4000. ) He said wash off the grit from the rim between grit changes. He said the smoother you get the metal the better the shine. Next he said use white and blue polishing stuff you put on a hugging wheel after the 4000 grit. Next he said use metal polish ThEN bring the rims to me to clear coat. They have yet to be clear coated. One of the rims was broken around the circumference and a buddy of mine MIG or TIG welded the piece back in the rim. Looks good let’s hope it holds.

Last secret, a lot of work.

Thank you again for your input.

Red Riviera Bob

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I must say that LOOKS REALLY, REALLY, REALLY NICE!!!!!   How many hours did you spend on each one???

I got some I MUST clean.

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

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My understanding is that modern chrome is much thinner. So it's not as forgiving as chrome done 30 years ago.

 

I've read not to use any ammonia based products on chrome either, that it actually dissolves chrome at a microscopic level.

 

I've done the Coca-Cola and tinfoil thing on chrome, it works reasonably well for filling in spiderwebs and very tiny pits.

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25 minutes ago, jsgun said:

My understanding is that modern chrome is much thinner. So it's not as forgiving as chrome done 30 years ago.

 

I'd guess that "modern" chrome refers to trivalent chrome as opposed to the hexavalent chrome that was used years ago (and has largely disappeared due to OHSA regulation).  Hexavalent chrome is harder than trivalent (likely the reason for the warning).  It also has a slightly blue cast.  If you're getting parts replated and you're anal about keeping vintage appearance, ask your plater which process they use.

 

Since they're 50 years old, these wheels almost certainly have hexavalent chrome.

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From my understanding talking with the platers that do the work the copper is the thing that's eliminated & also mentioned the type of chrome. The nickel is what shines, then has a clear coat over it.

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That's a couple of different things: "triple plating" is copper, nickel, and chrome.  Copper is the base, both because it adheres to the material and because it can be used to build up the material and fill in defects.  Nickel comes next, then the chrome.  Not all chrome plating uses all three steps.

 

The chrome is the outer, hard layer.  It is responsible for both the final appearance and the hard protection.  In the old days, they used hexavalent chromium.  Due to concerns about health (hexavalent chromium is carcinogenic) and hazardous waste, the industry largely switched to using trivalent chromium.  It's a much safer process, but the end result is different.

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On 10/14/2017 at 2:54 PM, PWB said:

Nice.

 

Ever use Mothers?  Will make aluminum almost mirror like.

 

 

shopping.jpg

PWB,  The challenge to get the cast aluminum to shine with Mothers is how good of shape is the cast aluminum? My rims were solid but they needed a lot of wet sanding. First the rims were media blasted and second they were repainted by rim repair shop. Next, I had to wet sand with 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 2000 grit. Then I buffed them out with the blue stuff you apply to the buffing wheel. NOW, we can put the crowning glow on with Mothers. NEXt, they go back to the rim shop to have the paint touched up where I hit with the sander. Then, they get clear coated. Having said all this IF a set of cast aluminum rims with caps and center caps in outstanding shape were for sale I'd jump in minute at $1500.00 for the set of 4. 

Thanks again for your compliment and input regarding Mothers.

Red Riviera Bob

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On 10/15/2017 at 4:55 AM, telriv said:

I must say that LOOKS REALLY, REALLY, REALLY NICE!!!!!   How many hours did you spend on each one???

I got some I MUST clean.

 

Tom T.

 

 

 

Tom, I have not kept track of the time because my air compressor can’t keep up. I take a lot of breaks. My guess is I’m at least 6 good hours on each rim. You use a lot of sandpaper and I wash the wheels a lot. You especially wash them between grit change. Additionally, each wheel was completely gone over twice. I saw where I missed a lot. The higher the grit the faster it goes. The water helps move the sandpaper as well. It is not hard, just tedious. A weak air compressor makes the work go slow. The smoother the metal the better the shine.

red Riviera Bob

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Just now, Red Riviera Bob said:

Tom, I have not kept track of the time because my air compressor can’t keep up. I take a lot of breaks. My guess is I’m at least 6 good hours on each rim. You use a lot of sandpaper and I wash the wheels a lot. You especially wash them between grit change. Additionally, each wheel was completely gone over twice. I saw where I missed a lot. The higher the grit the faster it goes. The water helps move the sandpaper as well. It is not hard, just tedious. A weak air compressor makes the work go slow. The smoother the metal the better the shine.

red Riviera Bob

To add...a 2” orbital air sander is what I use. Aircat about $110.00 ANOTHER alternative is the Metabo 3 1/8” ELECTRIC sander eliminates the need for a compressor. Orbital style is important because the orbital sands in little circles while the sanding head turns in circles too.

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On 10/16/2017 at 11:44 AM, Scott Mckenzie said:

Well done Bob, the effort shows.

 

Scott, thank you for your observation and positive feedback. I’m trying to redeem myself from the JB Weld event.😜🤓

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