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Body rotisserie


Frantz

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Is there a body rotisserie to look for... Or some to stay away from? Im tired of not doing the job right and want to tackle a restoration. If i find a good used one thatd be grand as well. I just dont know what to look for.

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Why do you need a rotisserie to do a restoration correct? And what car are you going to be putting on the rotisserie? I have been able to do restorations/builds correct with out one.


I certainly don't need one. I want one and I have the space for it. This isn't going to be a fast project so having the easy way to push the body around the shop while other things come and go will be nice. I also figure this won't be a once and done thing, so I'll get more than one use out of it. My quick search was showing many options well under $2000, and I can promise I've spent money far worse.

The project is my '54 Ford. Nothing special or worthy of full restoration, but I kept getting deeper in it and hate not doing things right. The motor needs rebuilt. I'm confident it would run, but the more I get into it the more it's obvious the next thing also needs redone. Then why do a beautiful job on a motor and put it in a car that does need some attention? Transmission is unknown frankly too. So I figure, a 4 door needs restoration too. I'll enjoy driving it just as much as a 2 door, and it will make family outings nicer, basically all the good things that made someone buy a 4 door in the first place. So this will be my first restoration. I have a 20x60 shop I rent and in a all my plans fall apart I can put it in my father in laws barn until a new space is set up. I have most of the tools at this point. I am comfortable rebuilding the block other than machine work, but I don't have body experience. Thankfully the car is popular enough that most things are easily attainable. the '54 motor stuff is a little odd ball being the first year Y block, but last year shoebox era.

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After a lot of shopping and comparison I purchased a 3,000 lb. unit from Accessible Systems:

 

https://www.accessiblesystems.com/bul/15/15d01.php

 

That was about ten years ago and they have made more design improvements since then.  If you've shopped enough in person, you can see the difference between their units and a lot of the others on the market.  Well worth the money and my standard for anything I buy is that it will accommodate one of my Lincolns if I want.  Thinking back, I believe they said they are designed at a safety factor of 1-1/2 or 2, whereas cheaper units are just at 1.  I've yet to hang a Lincoln on it, but relevant to what you're doing, I have had two different shoebox Country Squire Station Wagons mounted on it, which are tall, and could easily flip them a full 360 degrees when balanced and stop them at any point without the need to have someone help lock it. 

 

I purchased mine with pneumatic tires rather than small casters.  Just bite the bullet and do it or else you'll be limited to concrete floors.  I would like to find non-pneumatic of the same diameter with which to replace them as after a trip to a dumpy sandblaster I have been fighting leaking tires ever since.  Also, I ordered mine unpainted.  If you're going to do any dirty work or send it to a blaster, it's just going to get ruined anyway.  Truthfully, you could permanently store the thing outside even though I keep mine under cover.  It's like an AK-47, the clearances are such that it doesn't really care about dirt and once it's rusty, it's rusty.  It isn't going to get worse like you're driving it in salt.

 

   

Edited by W_Higgins (see edit history)
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2 hours ago, Frantz said:

I certainly don't need one. I want one

 

I know all about that. It can go on my headstone!, right under my name, and subtitled: "I don't care what you say, I am not going to let you talk any sense into me."

 

I would have a rotisserie too, if three Buicks, a Chevy, and the Allis-Chalmers (with a bucket loader) weren't taking up the garage space. I wouldn't even have room for it outside in the driveway where I park the stuff I bought new.

 

Bernie

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I don't know where you are geographically, but over here in SoCal they pop up, used on craigslist fairly regular. I've used them, I like them. Pick up one a guy bought and only used one time. Restoration finished, now it's just taking up space. Save yourself some  $$$.

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I bought one from Greg Smith.  I'm very happy with it. Greg Smith regularly brings one to major swap meets like Spring and Fall Carlisle.  They will sell that demo unit (which is brand new) at a discount so long as you can leave it in their booth until late Saturday.  Just call them in advance, pay for it then, and pick it up at the meet.  I did this a few years ago and saved a couple of hundred bucks off of list price.  They even threw in all the adapters and door bars that normally cost extra.  Since the OP is in PA, you may want to consider this.

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http://www.rollerhoop.com/contactus.htm

 

Contact Us:
402-475-9968
402-474-2344 tech line

DSK Auto Products, LLC
712 W Cornhusker Hwy
Lincoln, NE 68521

Doug & Stephanie Kielian

 

Chevelle Wagon

 

Seems over-priced to me, but someone else recommended it so I just share it here.

 

You could make one yourself I would think. You'd use 1.5 inch square tubing and find some shop with a suitable tubing bender.

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That Rollerhoop looks cool but, after watching some videos of it in use, that's a lot of extra junk in the way around the o.d. of the car while you're trying to work.  Above is a good example.  Wheel wells and doglegs are frequent problem areas.  That set-up severely restricts access.  For the money, I can't figure who their market is.  Accessible Systems is considered a high priced rotisserie and the Rollerhoop is higher yet. 

 

   

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For the $1400 price one couldn't afford to build one themselves.

Even the upgraded at $2000 is a deal.

Sure, a one time used one would be sweet, but considering how time is becoming more valuable I would rather spend it on the project at hand.

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Here's some info on someone who made his own and what it cost. He had the tubes bent at some shop.

 

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

 

I will be building a rotisserie Based on photos on this forum. The tubing is 2 inch square 1/8 thick. It cost $200 to have three 20 foot pieces bent to a 100 inch outside diameter. The third piece will be used to complete two circles as 20 foot was not long enough. The bender left straight sections at each end to be cut off. 

 

Video, skip ahead to 3:45 to see the rotisserie - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzPzO6ECh8c

 

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=545030

 

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14 hours ago, 1937hd45 said:

I'd like to find a source for two metal hoops, a bit larger that the overall width of the body, if they come in four bolt together sections that would be even better, the rest I can fab. Bob 

It makes you wonder what you could find in one of your farm supply stores.  When you think about it, they have farm silos in all shapes and sizes for grain storage so that might be a way to explore.  When you think about the amount of weight and pressure that those silos will withstand, a car body would be nothing in comparison. 

 

Depending on where you live, I know the Amish and Mennonites will buy silos, take them down and move them, so that might be a resource as well.

 

I know it's a thought outside the box, but something worth thinking about.  Truth be told I never thought about hoops at all.  We built one that we can extend or retract based on the length of the body, and then we have it where we can steer the front end, block the wheels, jack it up, and we can even hook it up to our garden tractor to move it.  When we're not using it, we'll split it in half so it doesn't take up as much room.

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  • 2 months later...
On 10/14/2017 at 9:14 AM, joe_padavano said:

I bought one from Greg Smith.  I'm very happy with it. Greg Smith regularly brings one to major swap meets like Spring and Fall Carlisle.  They will sell that demo unit (which is brand new) at a discount so long as you can leave it in their booth until late Saturday.  Just call them in advance, pay for it then, and pick it up at the meet.  I did this a few years ago and saved a couple of hundred bucks off of list price.  They even threw in all the adapters and door bars that normally cost extra.  Since the OP is in PA, you may want to consider this.

 

I also bought one from Greg smith a while back and have done many cars on it. My buddy is a distributor and mine cost me $850. I am very capable of welding one up but when I added up the cost of metal, proper length jacks, casters, hardware, and welding rods then added the time to make it, it wasn’t worth making it. 

   I disagree on buying the unpainted unit as it will rust in places you won’t easily see like the areas that slide inside each other. Then when you need to slide that joint, it won’t requiring you to free it up and most likely contaminate it with a lubricant. I personally don’t want any oil based lubricants in the paint booth with my car. Now, lots of areas will get overspray or paint removed if sent to the blaster but most guys will have two units if doing a lot of cars. One for paint, one for blasting.

 

    As far as storage, the GS unit breaks down to two separate ends and you can store the lower tie bar pieces in the vertical tubing on the ends. Broken down and stored nested together, ends facing each other, the rotisserie doesn’t take up much room, about 5x3 of floor space.

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Ken re: your off topic a little,  some engines count the links (can be various numbers), some line up one dot between two dots, some line up between the gears using a straight edge and one I saw lined up the dots using a straight edge across the centers but the dots were on the outside edge.  That's why I always make my own marks on all adjoining parts if the engine was running before I started disassembly.  Who knows what somebody prior has cobbled up.  Shop manuals are the perfect answer unless a shade tree mechanic has been there first.  I believe a punch set (center and alpha numeric) are just as or more important than a torque wrench when working on vintage or antique engines.

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Nowhere did you refer to a specific engine.  Your off topic post implies any/all engines to those of us who didn't/couldn't remember back 16 posts.  My apologies for old age and ever shortening short term memory.

Happy New Year anyway.

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On 10/12/2017 at 8:54 PM, Matt Harwood said:

 

I did 5 body off restorations with out a rotissorie. For the last one, a 56 Chrysler, I built the one described by Matt H. as above. What a joy to use. I put a removable hitch on it and even dragged the body out side to sand blast it. If you've ever used one you will NEVER do without again.......Bob

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As an aside, I saw one made out of 3/4" plywood, deck screws and some angle iron purpose built to hold a Mustang. Worked fine. When the guy was done he took it apart, saved the screws and burned the wood. I doubt if he had more than $100 in it.............Bob

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