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Hi fellas, I am pulling my motor and trans this winter to repair my trans. I will be putting my engine on a stand while the trans is worked on. The stands I can buy or borrow are rated for 1000 lbs. Does anyone have an idea how much a 425 Nailhead weighs ?  

 

 

 

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I've got two engines on 1,000 lb. stands, no problem.  Go for a four wheel stand, the three wheel kind can get a little tipsy sometimes.  I found a couple of references that say 685 lbs.  But they don't say if that's bare or with accessories. 

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Put a handful of grease on the head plate pivot. You will be happy you did. I had a '39 248 on one of those three leg stands. It stuck out there pretty good and you had to grunt to rotate it, but it did the job and felt secure. I probably wouldn't put a 320 on one though. Any V8 should be fine.

 

A little tip, attach the mounting arms and head plate to the engine while it is suspended by your lifting device, then slide the base onto the head plate, and lower. It makes life just a little easier.

 

Bernie

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I guess the first question would be why you're pulling the engine to fix the transmission.

 

And if you're not working on the engine, why not leave it on the picker or set it on the ground out of the way?

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37 minutes ago, KongaMan said:

I guess the first question would be why you're pulling the engine to fix the transmission.

 

And if you're not working on the engine, why not leave it on the picker or set it on the ground out of the way?

The engine and trans are easier to install for me if they are one unit, I`m done with wrestling under a car with a trans. As I have limited room in my single car garage the engine will be moved into storage till it mates up with the trans down the road after the rebuild. At 61 I still think having a concrete floor is a luxury !

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It is hard to get the engine and transmission out of a Riviera as a unit. Things are real tight. The cross member encroaches on the open space between it and the firewall. You have to get the assembly at and extreme angle (almost vertical) to make the lift. Be sure to have an expendable person to grab the tailshaft to raise it out of the car while someone else tugs on the cherry picker or rolls the car back, as the case may be for the lift method.

 

I have had mine out a couple of times. Would you believe just to paint it? Don+Adams.jpg

 

Here is Mike putting the Bill Hirsch paint on. Thought I was kidding?

001.jpg.ce3b9fb17401206b2707ef1f9c94a7cb.jpg

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I pulled my engine and transmission as a unit.  I didn't take off the entire front clip, but I did remove the radiator, supports, grill, etc. so it didn't need to be lifted as high.  The lifting device was a chain hoist attached to a swingset reinforced with 2x4s across the top. :o   Once it was up, we pushed the car out of the way and set the load down on the driveway.  IIRC, there were only two of us involved.

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Make sure you mark and pull the distributor*.  Bringing it out at the severe angle necessary (unless you take out the radiator,  etc.) can break off the distributor.

 

Ed

 

*mark the rotor to the body and the body to the block; while you're at it, mark the balancer to the block.

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I don't know why you wouldn't take out the radiator as a matter of course.  One "small" bump from a swinging engine would total it.  It only takes a couple of minutes, and it makes the main job easier to boot.

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Removing the trans cross member seems a logical move,it will allow the tail shaft to pivot as you lift the engine. By removing the radiator and grill the angle to lift will be less acute

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