GaryBudd

Might be time to cut a wood wheel off

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I've tried everything,heat,sledge hammer and three different penetrating fluids for three day now and it won't budge.It's the left rear. The other three came off with the puller I had made.Has anyone else had to resort to cutting? I have a spare wheel to replace it with.

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Are you sure the brakes are backed off?  Cutting a wheel off without damaging the axel or surrounding parts could be difficult.  Are you cranking down on the puller and then leaving it under full stress?  It took me over a week to get a wheel off a 29 Plymouth I had.

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I checked the photo of the puller you had made on your other thread.  First, if your wheels are that nice, don't cut them up.  Second, the center bolt on the puller seems a bit undersized.  I'm sure it's a grade 8 bolt, but I still question how much torque you can really apply.  How big a wrench are you using to tighten it down?  I'm sure others will chime in, and I'm no expert, but I don't think you can apply enough force to the axel with that setup if the wheel is really stuck.

Edited by Taylormade (see edit history)
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I agree with Taylormade....that center bolt does look a bit weak for the job. If that one does not work, do a search here for the wheel removal. Others have made other types of wood spoke wheel pullers.

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My glasses aren't strong enough to enable me to tell from here the thread on the centre bolt. It should be UNF or finer to get maximum axial force. It is also an Allen key drive: you will be able to put more torque into it with a large socket and handle. Best for force on the bolt is a special high strength six sided socket.

 

Also, get rid of your sledge hammer. It is a wrecker's tool, not a mechanic's tool. Every time you smash the end of the bolt, you are bashing the s..... kapok out of the wheel bearings etc. and risking breaking them. You only need to tap with a claw hammer, no more. But torque (i.e. long spanner) and time are your friends, along with patience. Don't cut up an old irreplaceable wheel. There is always a non-destructive way.

 

Put the thing on. Tighten. Tap a couple of  times. Tighten. Go away. Come back later and tighten. Tap. Tighten. Wait. Tighten. Wait. Tighten. Etc. There is elasticity and creep in the metal parts you are playing with and it can take time to free things up. The hub has been expanded elastically and worked up the taper, and the freeing deformation will take a while to creep all the way along the taper. My last one took days to come off, as has been stated above. It is very hard to get penetrating fluid in there without tipping the car on its side so I don't bother trying.

 

Just remembered, someone on these fora uses a pneumatic high torque rattle gun (and appropriate sockets) and even the most difficult come right off.

 

Back to the puller. How much penetration does the weld have on the tube? It looks like a fairly small fillet weld, which I would be dubious about. Your puller design would be best if it were a full penetration weld around the tube. The end plate might tear off the hub if the weld is too light, so take care when you have it torqued up. Partial fix would be a hefty fillet around the inside as well.

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Well as always you guys are right.I used a breaker bar with socket and allen head to load it up early this afternoon and let it be.Went picking apples with friends and just went to garage  to check on things,gave it anther crank and wallah it creaked several times and off she came.Really don't know what I would do without you guys supporting this old guy.

Many thanks

Gary

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It took me at least a week to get one of mine loose. I had pressure on it the whole time. Came back and gave it a whack with a long-handled, sledge hammer and, "pop".

Edited by keiser31 (see edit history)
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