Originality

[Mpgp1999]

Hello everyone 

I am wondering how I can make my car look and run like new from the factory. I am trying to make my car 100% authentic from soup to nuts. Including db bolts and washers and windows. 

 

After cleaning the underbody body to apply some corrosion inhibitors I noticed some numbers. My car has the vin stamped on the body and frame the exact same numbers. The font is small similar to modern cars. I found underneath lots of paint the original vin number and the original body number. Tracing the number that would make my car having been built in 25, which would explain why many of the old records call it a 25 not a 26. Why would someone put a new vin in the same db format. 

If you look very carefully at the top left corner you can see part of the original vin.

 

Matthew

[Texacola]

Matthew,

Is the A 554254 (early March 1926 build) your title #? I can't read the other #, but if it is after 7/1/25 it would also be a 1926 Series. 

My understanding is that the original VIN would appear on the frame (as you show) and on a toe board plate affixed to the interior floor (toe) board and not stamped on the body.

If like CT . your  state likes to see two places on the car with the same Vin. then maybe someone stamped the body ? (no toe board data plate?)

Edited October 7, 2017 by Texacola (see edit history)

[jan arnett (2)]

One thing to remember is that VIN numbers were not issued until the 1960's.  You do not have a vin number but a serial number.

 

[Mpgp1999]

Does anyone know how I can balance my tires at home?

[Guest]

Jack up the front wheel, slightly loosen the bearings and spin the wheel.  The bottom where it stop is the heavy point.  Do this two or three times and then place wheel weight opposite.  To balance the rears you need to mount the rim and tire on a front wheel. 

[Grimy]

12 minutes ago, Tinindian said:

Jack up the front wheel, slightly loosen the bearings and spin the wheel.  The bottom where it stop is the heavy point.  Do this two or three times and then place wheel weight opposite.  To balance the rears you need to mount the rim and tire on a front wheel. 

In my experience, two or three spins are not enough.  I did it TEN times for each wheel (this was on a large 35 x 5 tire), recording on a piece of paper the position of the valve stem by clock position (3 o'clock, 6 o'clock, etc.).  I then average the clock readings out (for the above, 4:30), move the wheel to the "average" position, then make a chalk mark on the tire at the 12 o'clock (lightest) position, and add weight.  Then do it again to see if the weight you added was enough.  I don't bother to balance the rears. 

[Guest]

To do it really well you should divide the weight by half and place them I/3 of the way from the lightest point.

Except for one set of tires I have always found mounting the serial number centered with the valve stem had the wheel balanced good enough up to 60 MPH.

Most truck could balance wood artillery wheels as long as the still had the sensor that sits on the axle.  You have no idea how smooth and quiet an antique or vintage vehicle can be until everything is balanced.  However if you are not driving over 50mph for long distances it probably isn't worth the bother.