Rechrome vs Reproduction

[40mopar]

I'm working on fixing up a 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton.  Don't want a show truck, just a good looking daily driver.

 

I was going to have the original bumpers rechromed, but realized that I can buy new reproduction bumpers in less time for less money.

 

Anyone have any recommendations?  Are the repro bumpers good and sturdy and do they look original?

 

Thanks

 

 

[TerryB]

I've seen, on TV as opposed to real life experience, the reproduction was not as good as originals that are rechomed.  I had my 37 Dodge done by Paul's Rechroming.  It came out great.  I had contacted them at the Hershey car show quite a few years ago.

Terry

Edited October 6, 2017 by TerryB (see edit history)

[capngrog]

I have found the quality on new chrome components to be poor.  My experience is limited to a couple of bumpers (VW) and several side view mirrors.  With that said, the cost to re-chrome things these days is really high; however, you may get a better quality plating job than you get on new pieces.

 

Good luck and let us know what you decide.

 

Cheers,

Grog

[joe_padavano]

I can't speak to AD Truck bumpers, but repro bumpers that I've seen for Olds 442s are all over the map in terms of quality.  All are thinner than OEM.  Finish-wise, many I've seen with grind marks or other scratches visible under the chrome.  On the other hand, I've also seen some that look great.  Unfortunately that means that unless you can personally inspect them prior to paying (such as, at a swap meet), quality will be hit-or-miss.  Only you can tell if this is adequate for a driver or not.

 

If you do plan to chrome your originals, there are a number of reasonable vendors I've found.  Two I would recommend from a cost/quality standpoint are Tri City Plating in TN and Advanced Custom Chrome in Erie, PA.  Both are reasonably priced and decent quality (better than the Chinesium repro bumpers).  There are certainly high quality show chrome shops out there like Qual Krom and Advanced Plating.  These latter two vendors do a phenomenal job, and are priced accordingly.  I've used them also and would recommend them if you want that high end plating. Your call.

[John_S_in_Penna]

7 hours ago, 40mopar said:

 ...Don't want a show truck, just a good looking daily driver. ...

 

You'll generate some interesting stories as you

drive your 66-year-old pick-up truck every day.

Will you be driving it to work as well?

I assume you don't mean in winter snow and salt,

because then all your good work will deteriorate quickly.

 

Have fun!  I'm sure you will make some memories.

[auburnseeker]

I've used aftermarket ones on my 66 Pickup.  They seemed OK.  They look good,  honestly probably better than any NOS ones you would find today,  though as mentioned some people have had trouble with the chrome peeling.  Mine were fine,  but I rarely drove it in the rain and it didn't get stored in a Damp garage.  I also used, the repro grille and that held up fine as well.  I bought a 40 Ford coupe with all new chrome.  The bumpers still look great though it was done 20 years ago,  but one of the wingtips,  has the chrome peeled off it on better than 30 percent of it.  It was in climate controlled storage as the bare metal underneath it doesn't even have flash rust on it. 

Some of the original chrome from the day wasn't very good either.  Personally,  I would probably use the repro on a truck like that.   If you are asking it obviously means you don't want to spend more than necessary.  I would look around on the net and ask some other guys that have done them (pretty easy to find)  and see where they got theirs from and how they are holding up.  

Edited October 7, 2017 by auburnseeker (see edit history)

[mercer09]

Hanlon Plating in Virginia does cheap chrome work, but again, all depends what you are looking for.

 

wont win any shows with it.

[Frank DuVal]

Tom's still in business? Is he there or other people running it?

 

 

[Paul Dobbin]

I vote for rechromed over the cheap reproductions.  Original are much stronger steel

[mercer09]

		Contact Hanlon Plating Company   By Mail Hanlon Plating Company 925 East 4th Street Richmond, VA 23224 By Telephone 804-233-2021 By Fax 804-233-0601 By Email Click Here
Site by Emerson Web		Hanlon Plating Company   ·   Richmond, Virginia   ·   804-233-2021

[Rusty_OToole]

I would buy the repros, coat them with auto wax and be happy. Keep the old ones in case the new ones rust out. But they should last for many years if you take care of them. For a driver I don't think it's worth the extra cost to rechrome the originals. Plus if you get in an accident the repros are cheap to replace.

[60FlatTop]

On 10/6/2017 at 1:12 PM, 40mopar said:

Don't want a show truck, just a good looking daily driver.

 

 

Your standard is going to be low enough for the repops. If you are consistent with your whole project rechromed bumpers might look too good and out of place

Bernie

[auburnseeker]

Actually GM bumpers for the most part from the 50's especially on Pickups were driver quality.  Most have been over restored over the years so no one knows what an original one looked like.  I sell NOS parts and can tell you they were made by union workers collecting a pay check.  They weren't made by restoration experts that will spend hours polishing them to get every flaw out.  The originals had stamp marks, scratches from being handled before packaging or on the assembly line.  I've seen chrome from gorgeous show quality to rough cast marks and imperfections with what looks like I call 50's appliance chrome on them, like you see on a 50's table set.  A shiny reflective surface that you can barely make the image out in when staring at it.  

You are stressing too much over it.  Just find ones that guys have used that seem to not have the plating flake off.   Mine came from LMC truck,  but that was 15 years ago. 

[Rusty_OToole]

2 hours ago, auburnseeker said:

Actually GM bumpers for the most part from the 50's especially on Pickups were driver quality.  Most have been over restored over the years so no one knows what an original one looked like.  I sell NOS parts and can tell you they were made by union workers collecting a pay check.  They weren't made by restoration experts that will spend hours polishing them to get every flaw out.  The originals had stamp marks, scratches from being handled before packaging or on the assembly line.  I've seen chrome from gorgeous show quality to rough cast marks and imperfections with what looks like I call 50's appliance chrome on them, like you see on a 50's table set.  A shiny reflective surface that you can barely make the image out in when staring at it.  

You are stressing too much over it.  Just find ones that guys have used that seem to not have the plating flake off.   Mine came from LMC truck,  but that was 15 years ago. 

This is absolutely true. What is more, 1951 was right in the middle of the Korean War when chrome was at a low ebb. Chromium is an important ingredient in critical military equipment. The manufacturers skimped on the chrome they used on cars to a degree that would have been shocking just a few years before. Cars in the Cadillac, Chrysler Imperial and Packard class got shoddy chrome that began pitting in 6 months to a year, in spite of being protected by clear lacquer. That is another idea. Buy the cheap bumpers and protect them with modern clear coat. It should keep them rust free and new looking  for 10 years unless you bang into something.

Edited October 8, 2017 by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)

[CHuDWah]

Here's another idea - how about painting your bumpers?  Whole lot cheaper than chrome and easier to fix if it gets damaged.  Not original but you "Don't want a show truck, just a good looking daily driver."  I think this looks pretty good:

 

[Buffalowed Bill]

I don't know what two cents will buy, except a lot of trouble, but here goes. I personally don't like the new custom look in which the bumper is painted the same color as the car/truck body, but painting would still seem to have been a option when the truck was new. I'm really not too sure about the early 50's Chev, but I seem to remember them having seen painted bumpers. They couldn't have been different then the other trucks of the era. All manufacturers seemed to all have used a contrasting, standard white, or off white bumper.

[John348]

Re-chrome by far over reproduction I have to replace the reproduction side view mirrors on my Impala and Biscayne every two years and they are just sitting in a temp controlled garage

[60FlatTop]

I remember when the painted, previously chromed, bumpers started showing up. They said "cheap" more than anything else. Never cared for the look. That was when I was around 40 or 45.

 

I guess it reminded me of Mr. Burgett, around the corner who had the garden that backed up to our lot. I was 10 in 1958 when he was driving a '50 Chevy with aluminum painted bumpers. Some memories just stick with you. I think "frugal" was the term back then. Never used that term a lot.

Bernie

[auburnseeker]

There is 20 year old repop chrome on my entire 40 Ford Coupe and it all looks like it was just installed less a random scratch or two.  No pitting or peeling except on the wing tip as mentioned.  

I have also seen alot of cars with rechromed parts,  even at Hershey this year with the plating falling off what looks like a fairly well cared for car. 

[auburnseeker]

First thing I think when I see a custom car or "restored " car with painted chrome.  What else did they skimp on/ do Cheaply.

[CHuDWah]

I guess paint vs chrome is a matter of taste.  I like both although I agree contrasting color paint looks better than body color.  Some think paint looks "cheap".  Well, yeah, it is cheaper than chrome.  But "back in the day", trucks weren't the status symbols they are today, quite the opposite if anything.  Buyers wanted utility and economy more than bling.  Dunno about 51 Chevs but, yes, some trucks came from the factory with painted bumpers.  Heck, even rubbed-out body paint was extra cost on some Ford trucks.

[MarrsCars]

Many classic owners I chat with buy the full stainless steel repros rather than chromed ones. They are solid stainless steel with no plating whatsoever, said to scratch a bit easier but can be buffed out unlike chrome. They are very difficult to tell from chrome unless you know they are there or if you are comparing to other chrome parts on the same car, but follow the same profile and even come with the correct factory color primer on back. PM me if you need info.

[John_S_in_Penna]

I hope the original poster comes back to

continue the conversation he started, and to

answer the questions.  I think a 1951 truck

to be driven every day will be an interesting experience.

[auburnseeker]

1 minute ago, John_S_in_Penna said:

I hope the original poster comes back to

continue the conversation he started, and to

answer the questions.  I think a 1951 truck

to be driven every day will be an interesting experience.

All depends on how far you drive it.  I used mine , a 1949 3100,   every nice day it didn't rain to go back and forth from my shop to my home.  A few miles each way.  I hauled everything from Cement blocks and car parts to diesel Fuel in it.  Fortunately it had plenty of patina so I didn't have to worry about messing up the bed.  I would still be using it,  if someone didn't want it more than me.   The Hudson gets used in a similar fashion, but it has a pretty bed and I sold my shop so now it's just trips to the hardware store and post office on nice days,  as well as a little blast down our version if route 66 to stretch it's legs,  which it likes with the 3.0 rear gears.  

[Restorer32]

There is another alternative, Chrome on a Roll, also known as Arkansas Chrome. 4" wide chrome tape. Had a friend who "plated" the grill of a '32 Rolls with chrome tape and it actually looked good. The tape was wide enough that there were no joints visible.  It took some staring before you realized what he had done. He also did the bumpers but that was less successful. All in all the chrome tape looked better than some "driver quality" chrome I've seen. Reminds me, I have to write a $13k check today for most, but not all,  the chrome for a '60 Cadillac.

[mercer09]

somebody at Hershey was selling"spray on chrome"  showed me a grill and was very surprised. The cost is about 1/2 of getting real chrome and they do the work.

 

They were near the stadium.

[Doug Novak]

The question of Repo vs Re-chrome asked about a Truck Bumper which is easily reproduced and generally in stock for immediate shipment at a lesser cost then shipping your original bumper and waiting weeks to get it re-chromed. 10 years ago I bought from LMC Truck a Chrome front bumper for my '69 Chevy C10. It fits perfectly and looks great. If the part was rare and hard to find as a reproduction I'd have it rechromed, but Truck Bumpers are not that hard to find. 

 

The comment about Repro Parts Fit problems is true but not always the case. I replaced the Doors on my Chevy with doors from JC Whitney and they fit perfectly.

[Jim Bollman]

My 50 Ford F1 came with painted bumper, black not body color. Seems like I have seen a cream or white also on Fords.

 

I can't vouch for their quality now but I used Bumper Boz 10+ years ago for a rear bumper on a 66 Ranchero driver. I was pleased with the quality and price. It was not show chrome but as good or better than it came from the factory. I made the arrangements over the phone and had them deliver it at a show they were going to, no shipping cost, that I planned to go to anyway. Brought my old bumper to exchange. It was all wrapped in paper when delivered so I opened it up to check before turning over my bumper and was happy with their replacement. I sold the Ranchero 7 years ago so I don't have any long term experience with their quality.

[John_S_in_Penna]

On 10/11/2017 at 4:48 PM, Jim Bollman said:

I can't vouch for their quality now but I used Bumper Boz [Bumper Boyz] 10+ years ago...

 

I was advised to use someone else.  I took the advice.

[mercer09]

Horror stories on the internet about the above quality.

[40mopar]

Enjoyed all the comments.  Thanks.

 

I decided to buy one repro bumper.  It's definitely not as stout as the original, but I don't think that

will be noticable once it's on the truck.  After the truck is painted, I'll mount this bumper and see

how it looks.  If ok, I'll buy the second repro, if not, I get one of the originals rechromed.

[Walt G]

I used Bumper Boyz when they used to show up at Hershey about 22 years ago, did an exchange as mentioned in this post by Jim Bollman

and echo what he stated, not perfect but excellent for the price and fitted to a original 48 Chevy coupe I had at the time .

[lump]

One important fact that I can contribute to this thread is that on many reproduction parts, THERE IS MORE THAN ONE MANUFACTURER, and MORE THAN ONE LEVEL OF QUALITY AVAILABLE. The problem is, we collectors and restorers are conditioned that, for all the body and trim parts for these cars and trucks (when they were fairly new transportation vehicles), there were only TWO sources available...the parts dept at your local car dealer, and/or used parts from salvage yards. No one thought of buying an off-brand fender, door, or bumper for a 3 year-old car; reproduction body or trim parts didn't exist. So everyone used to check on the price of new parts replacement parts at the dealership, and then scour junk yards and want ads for used parts. Then the shopper would settle on the best price he/she could find.

 

So today, when we need reproduction parts, what do we do? We get on the phone and call around to several sources, and then order the item we need from whichever source offers the lowest overall cost (for the part plus shipping). We do that without even knowing that some of those parts we got quotes for are "economy versions," while other parts are show-car worthy. In my career position, this drives me CRAZY! 

 

For example, did you know that there are FIVE DIFFERENT MANUFACTURERS of those "cowl hoods" for 1967 to 1969 Camaros? (Regular Production Option ZL-2, "Special Ducted Hood" actually debuted in about January of 1969, but it seems like MOST 67-69 Camaros are fitted with them now). Anyway, some of those reproduction hoods are really, really good...made from heavy gauge steel on all-steel tooling, and are at LEAST as good of quality as the OEM parts were. However, there are also some cowl hoods out there of questionable quality. And if you call around to several suppliers seeking the lowest overall cost...guess which one you'll likely get? 

 

So when someone asks me if reproduction parts for certain vehicles are really good, or really bad. I answer them, "YES. Exactly." 

 

Moreover, not all restorers even WANT the same level of quality. There are many, many car owners out there who just want to patch a rough old car together and blow it out at the next swap meet. Those folks want the cheapest part they can find. Other folks may be trying to build a platinum quality car, intent on winning their Junior, Senior, and Preservation awards at the next few Hershey events. It's ok when the first guy gets cheapo parts in the mail. But that guy with his sights set on platinum is going to be disappointed if his new quarter panel doesn't "quite" fit right. 

 

For over 30 years, I've been doing the advertising and marketing for LOTS of the companies which manufacture or retail reproduction parts for collector vehicles. I design and produce their ads, catalogs, websites, swap meet exhibits, SEMA show exhibits, and provide them with advice on how to sell their products. I've spent literally thousands of hours behind the scenes of manufacturers and retailers in this industry from coast to coast. Some of the retailers try to compete on price alone, and are forced to stock and sell the lowest priced parts they can find, while others try to find the best parts available, and consequently cannot offer the lowest price. Some of the manufacturers try to make the highest quality part available, and then try to convince the retailers to stock THEIR parts instead of the "cheapo's." But many retailers are afraid of losing the sale if they cannot offer the lowest price. Why is that...? Because restorers and collectors really do call around and shop primarily by lowest overall price. 

 

This explains why one restorer will talk about having bought a reproduction bumper for his Mustang (for example) and grumble about the piss-poor quality of that D#$(&n repro crap, while another guy in the same conversation group will say that he too bought repro bumpers for the same year Mustang and loved the quality. BOTH men are telling the truth! 

 

My advice? Educate yourself before you buy. Find out if there is more than one version of those new bumpers available. And keep in mind that some retailers don't want you to know that, because they want to buy from whichever manufacturer will cut them a deal THIS WEEK. So they might have sold BRAND X last week, but are stocking BRAND Y today. Educate yourself, and buy the parts which will suit you the best. Oftentimes, you have a choice in the matter, if you take the time to find out about it. 

Edited October 30, 2017 by lump (see edit history)