ericmac Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 I found one of my absolute holy grails, a rock solid '62 Continental convertible. The back story on this car is lengthy and I will get to it as we go. Fist though the car. It is completely rust free, delivered new in California but later moved to Arizona and later back here to Michigan. I found the car on Auto Trader Classics. It had been languishingin the back of an old Cadillac dealership on Woodward Avenue for over 10 years. As far as Ican tell the previous owner drove thecar less than 20 miles in the time he owned it. Currently it is doing nothing but giving me a "click" when I turn the key but i have had it running and driving, so I'm thinking I have something minor going on. Here is what I have to work with. The car has the desirable maroon interior, wood grain kit and factory air. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 That's a great looking car! Enjoy it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Beautiful car. Great find. Re the click, that is the solenoid attempting to engage the starter circuit. It is one of three possibilities. The batter is discharged and too weak to turn the starter; the solenoid itself is defective; or the starter needs rebuilding. Your solenoid may be part of the starter and is attached to the top of it or may be remote and sitting on a fender. I would look first at the battery and its connections. Keep us posted. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted October 6, 2017 Author Share Posted October 6, 2017 So far i have replaced the battery twice, the solenoid twice, all the battery cables, and the starter. I also added insulators to the solenoid bolts as i thought I may have inadvertently grounded out the solenoid. So far nothing but a click. You should know this car has the wierd Ford powerbox with all the fuses and the solenoid low on the passenger side of the firewall. It has to be something simple but i can't figure it out...yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted October 28, 2017 Author Share Posted October 28, 2017 I have done everything I know to do with no solution. Plan B. Off to the shop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted October 28, 2017 Share Posted October 28, 2017 It's the shifter. Both the top mechanism and the ignition switch on these cars (and Thunderbirds) are tied into the shifter. Put it in neutral and I bet it starts. Or push the shifter up and down while turning the key and I bet you'll find the sweet spot where the circuit is closed and the starter solenoid can be energized. There's a safety switch built into the shifter so that the car can't be started and the top can't be operated without the car in Park. Due to the design of the shifter and the steering column, particularly on cars with swing-away steering columns, the mechanism is prone to coming out of adjustment and causing this exact problem. Sorry I didn't get to this quickly enough that I could save you before you sent it to the shop, but give your mechanic a heads-up before he starts tearing things apart. I am 90% sure it's just that simple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Hi Matt and all. I am awareof the lock out switch and tried that...and failed. I will tell the mechanic about this as i agree, the switch is probably the most likely culprit. Thanks for this and I'll let you know how it goes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 To late as well. We had the same problem, and it was the connections in the power box ,passenger side firewall.Great car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve_Mack_CT Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 (edited) Fantastic car and color combo I would want most as well. One 0f 3 or 4 postwar cars I would like to own. Looking forward to the updates... Edited October 29, 2017 by Steve_Mack_CT (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 2 hours ago, old car fan said: To late as well. We had the same problem, and it was the connections in the power box ,passenger side firewall.Great car. So what was wrong with your connections? I'm curious as i has to get in there when i replaced the solenoid. I'm wondering if I made a mistake in there. Thanks to all of you for the suggestions and the kind compliments about the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old car fan Posted October 29, 2017 Share Posted October 29, 2017 (edited) Eric,i believe it was the positive side,out of the box.We spent 3 or 4 weekends just getting the mechanicals in order,top and doors.I do remember it was a brass bolt we replaced, and a bear.to do But .with these cars everything is. How is all your functions on the car? Edited October 29, 2017 by old car fan (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted October 30, 2017 Author Share Posted October 30, 2017 Some things on this car work, most do not. I bought the car knowing the top did not work but have a pretty good idea the problem is the relay that drives the pump after the deck is unlatched, which does work. The windows go up and down but the vent windows do not work, and the retractor mechanism on the rear doors does not operate. The antenna does not work. I've not tried the seat or the air. Oddly the car has every available option except speed control, though I'd like to add that. I bought the car mainly because the body was exceptional and the price was beyond belief. That being the case, i knew i was going to have to fix some stuff. I was right! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 So it turned out that the problem was a bad ignition switch. The car now starts and runs though I decided to hire a carn rebuild too. I am very good at disassembling carburetors and getting them back together, only to have the car never running again. I should have the car back just in time to welcome the snow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted May 5, 2018 Author Share Posted May 5, 2018 I finally got the car home. It needed quite a lot of little stuff including a carb rebuild, ignition switch, and a pressure test for the cooling system, but now it runs and drives beautifully. I have a bunch of things to do now including getting the top and windows working correctly and then I will move to appearance items. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aaron65 Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 I just watched an episode of Jay Leno's Garage online where he spent the episode talking to a guy who travels around fixing the electrical system (mainly windows and tops) on '60s Continentals. You might want to check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandpa Posted May 5, 2018 Share Posted May 5, 2018 Here is the link to the YouTube Jay Leno's Garage on Continental convertible sedans - 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted May 6, 2018 Author Share Posted May 6, 2018 I don't see the link but would guess it is John Cashman. He is known as the top and window guru. If i get over my head I may enlist his help but I think I have isolated the relay that is giving me problems. I'll post a photo soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 I found the segment and really enjoyed it. John Cashman was indeed the featured expert, and well deserved. I really liked what he had to say about the Lincolns of the 60s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 18, 2018 Author Share Posted August 18, 2018 A little update. I have done quite a bit with the car this summer. Several people familiar with these cars suggested a deck lid open relay was the culprit related to my top issue (trunk wouldn't open). They were right. That fixed, I can enjoy open air motoring. The problem with the power windows? The wiring was not connected to the switches. I now have to get new resonators and it should be quiet again. Next will be the sticky choke. Then I will move on to appearance issues. I think it looks better with the top down. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted August 18, 2018 Share Posted August 18, 2018 Nice car! I had a '67 convertible, but car had so many issues I got tired of dealing with them. I have a pair of brand new resonators from that deal, the three pipe contraptions, I believe those are resonators? I don't know if they interchange with 1962 but I'd sell them cheap if you need them....30 bucks each plus shipping....I have no idea how much they cost new, but just boxing them up would be worth that, they're awkwardly shaped! David Coco Winchester Va. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 20, 2018 Author Share Posted August 20, 2018 Well cr@%. As I was backing into the garage my oil light came on. I was at low RPM but briefly revved it and the light stayed on.I have plenty in it but worry a pick up screen is plugged, or plugged oil line...or bad oil pump. In any case i now have another project to add to the list. I am open to other ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted August 20, 2018 Share Posted August 20, 2018 I believe '61 is the first year they went to the dreaded "nylon" timing gear. What you describe is consistent with when one bites the dust and the chips plug up the intake screen on the oil pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfre Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 The oil sensor is known to fail Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 While my 1939 Studebaker timing gear was in the process of failing, there was a dull thudding knock. Do the failing "nylon" gears make any noise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 (edited) So...engine comes out, and the timing gear and oil pump get replaced? Edited August 21, 2018 by ericmac Typos (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 One other symptom is when hot it starts hard. It seemed unrelated but I thought I would mention it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 10 hours ago, Alfre said: The oil sensor is known to fail Al I am going to run a test with an outside oil pressure gauge. I hope your theory is the right one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted August 21, 2018 Share Posted August 21, 2018 By all means, test the oil sending unit and anything else in the circuit. However, know that nylon timing sprockets failing is a when-not-if situation. The replacements today are all steel and perhaps that's what you already have, but if you don't have some documentation the only way to know is going to be to take a peek inside. The nylon sprocket failing is a when-not-if situation. If you haven't already done so, do yourself a favor and buy a copy of the factory Maintenance Manual. You'll need it in the future even if you don't need it now. It will cover the necessary steps to pull the front cover. It's possible with the pan removed you can look up from underneath into the timing chain area to see what you have. At any rate, pulling the front cover shouldn't involve removing the engine from the car. Probably just remove the hood and radiator to gain access. Be careful running it to diagnose this issue. If your oil pick-up screen really is plugged up, you may indeed be pulling the engine to do more than you have to do right now.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 21, 2018 Author Share Posted August 21, 2018 5 hours ago, W_Higgins said: By all means, test the oil sending unit and anything else in the circuit. However, know that nylon timing sprockets failing is a when-not-if situation. The replacements today are all steel and perhaps that's what you already have, but if you don't have some documentation the only way to know is going to be to take a peek inside. The nylon sprocket failing is a when-not-if situation. If you haven't already done so, do yourself a favor and buy a copy of the factory Maintenance Manual. You'll need it in the future even if you don't need it now. It will cover the necessary steps to pull the front cover. It's possible with the pan removed you can look up from underneath into the timing chain area to see what you have. At any rate, pulling the front cover shouldn't involve removing the engine from the car. Probably just remove the hood and radiator to gain access. Be careful running it to diagnose this issue. If your oil pick-up screen really is plugged up, you may indeed be pulling the engine to do more than you have to do right now.... Very good advice here. The good news is the engine has run a total of perhaps 1 minute at idle with the light on. While not my first choice, i think i will heed the warnings here, pull the cover and pan, do some cleaning and checking, then go from there. I swear, I am going to inadvertently back into a full restoration of this car before I know what hit me. Trim-a-car, does this sound all too familiar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 I still have the Maintenance Manual from when I owned my '64 and I would think for this '62 is the same. It doesn't say that you have to remove the hood or radiator and thinking back about it they do seem to have more room up front than the '59 - '60 to which I am accustomed. If you have A/C you'll have a little extra work to do to gain access, but otherwise it's essentially unbolting everything from the front of the engine. Since you don't know anything about the car, I'd say pull the pan first to see what you can see. If you find it full of shavings or you can see enough looking up to satisfy yourself that it has a steel gear, then you can decide where to go from there. It does indicate that for a '64 you have to disconnect the motor mounts and jack the engine to pull the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 22, 2018 Author Share Posted August 22, 2018 (edited) I am fortunate to have a complete set of manuals from '61 as well as the '62 supplement. Unfortunately I don't know anything of the mechanical history of this car so I'm running blind there. What I do know is the car was stored for at least 20 years before I bought it with very minimal use in at least the last 25 years. It will need some tinkering. I bought the car as a driver, not a restoration project but I know if you use them you have to maintain them. My car is an AC equipped car so I have a bit more dissembly to do, thus more photos for the forum, eh? Here is what I am starting with. Edited August 22, 2018 by ericmac Typos and added photo (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 See what a positive thing this is? Now while you're in there you can rebuild the A/C! Given it's history, washing out the pan would be a good thing regardless. Looks relatively untouched if still having the shield around the fuel pump is any indication. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted August 22, 2018 Share Posted August 22, 2018 "Trim-a-car, does this sound all too familiar? " You bet it does. I bought my '67 convertible from the estate of a fellow who'd been restoring it for 25 years. It had sat so long in his garage that the "brand new" radial tires had literally come apart in shreds. I thought it was a bargain, as it was almost finished (ha! give me a minute to quit laughing....) and was a four figure purchase price. And, it looked great....little did I know the agony that I bought... Over $6000 later, the car still wasn't all fixed. Sitting for so long was the worse thing that happened to it, and of course found some of his "restoration" wasn't quite up to any standard at all. I sold it, just about breaking even, and I was smiling as I watched it drive away..... it's an old saying about a lot of cars, but sometimes the cheapest ones you buy are the most expensive ones you'll buy....if I ever wanted another Lincoln convertible, I'd go out and buy the best one I could afford, and pay the bank $500 a month instead of paying a shop $1000 a month.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted August 28, 2018 Author Share Posted August 28, 2018 I am dealing with an unexpected diversion, a hernia repair procedure. As a result I am sidelined for a bit. I'll get back on this one shortly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 After a bit of rehab I am back working on the Lincoln. Have any of you ever felt like your enjoyment of a car is cursed? I'm about there with this one. I decided to start with the easy thing (or what I thought was the easy one) first, the oil pressure sending unit. My father in law had the correct socket and in a few turns the old unit was out and I was screwing in the new one. I reconnected the wire, fired up the car. Light was out. Problem solved, right? Wrong. I had a large puddle of oil growing under the car. Okay, i stripped my new sending unit, right? Nope. The threads of the new unit were fine. Naturally, I stripped the threads going into the engine. My first thought was to clean the female side really well, liberally coat with permatex, and try running the engine again in 24 hours to see if I have a leak. The problem is if the leak were to reemerge while rolling along at 70 mph, that could be catastrophic before I knew there was a problem. So, helpful readers, I'm open to your thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted September 18, 2018 Author Share Posted September 18, 2018 So, research helps. Good news. There is a bold on adapter for the oil filter. Replace it and I am back in business...I hope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericmac Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 I continue to be stuck on the same problem I have had for a while now. Reading Matt Harwood's posts are beginning to make me wonder if all these Lincolns are cursed. My problem is I just can't get a wrench on the top two bolts of the adapter bracket. I can't even see them. So...the only thing I know to do is get stuff out of the way. Right now it looks like the power steering pump, air conditioning compressor and bottom water hose all will have to come off. I will post some pics as I progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
West Peterson Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Eric, I feel your pain, too. In my younger days, I spent several hours working on 1962 Lincolns. Even had the battery from one blow up in my face. While driving one of the cars, I had sincerely hoped it would leave me stranded on the highway, so that I could just leave IT stranded on the highway and walk away (felt the same way about a Corvair, once, too). Your comment about getting everything out of the way: That is EXACTLY the phrase I used when working on the Lincoln, prefaced by "Rule Number One..." So, Rule number one: Get everything out of the way, starting with the hood. I have transferred that rule over to almost everything I work on now. In the end, it saves time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trimacar Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 I agree with the rule "Get everything out of the way". In my case, with that cursed '67 Lincoln that I owned, the most important thing to get "out of the way" was the whole darn car.....and man did that ever fix the problems..... I'm sure there are good, well sorted, Lincolns out there. If I ever bought another one, I'd insist on a test drive of, say, 5000 miles, before purchasing.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W_Higgins Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 There is no curse. I have the Maintenance Manuals for '60, '64, and '66 and the procedure is very clear about how to remove the oil filter adapter. One of the best things about Lincolns of this era is the service literature. I have found very little fault with it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now